Thread: Brake Ducting
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Old 03-28-05, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Kalun_D
5 Tenths
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Seattle
GT40: KVA body, scrat
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Re: Brake Ducting

Here's the light cover/ duct assembly in position inside the fenderwell. (looking at the RF corner from the inside). Everything was done with the strongest weave of conventional glass and strongest conventional resin. 3 layers on the liners(may have been overkill) and 2 layers on the ducts.

The round part of the duct has a 3" diameter and will go to a 3" aircraft type flexible duct. The connection to facilitate the clip movement will be an aluminum flange mounted to the aluminum skin side of the chassis, with the round fiberglass end sealing right on the flange with rubber WS. The flex duct will go from the flange to a similar flange on the brake backing plate.

This design avoids having to make the round section of the glass duct to an exact dimension to fit the flex duct, which would entail more exacting work and straining amatuer skill level.

The "to win" series recommends 3" minimum duct size and the original cars were 4". It's close clearance between the tire at full turn and the chassis side so the original ducts went inside the chassis and back out to clear the tire making it considerably more complex. Since it's doubtful this thing is going to be full out competitively raced it seemed 3" was enough plus it clears the tire.

I'm an amateur glass person so anybody that's a pro and sees something that could have been done easier/better please chime in.

It's actually pretty funny but my first attempt entailed a duct that had the flex hose clamped to the glass duct inside the liner and running all the way to the brakes with no provision for a connection to open the clip! The next day I came out to the shop and looked at it and went DOHHHHH!!!!!
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