Hi Ron,
A couple of things come to mind here with alignment settings, the intended use and the suspension geometry dictated by the pivot points in the suspension.
You're more into track use than street so more negative camber front/rear is required than a street driver. On the street the tires will quickly wear out with big neg camber numbers.
About the castor, on the front it's to bring the steering wheel back to center and may ad camber to the static number as the tires turn in, another good thing. Steering effort goes up which is not good for low speed street driving.
The rear castor plays an important roll (no pun intended) in the percentage of anti-squat geometry available. Good for both road and track, however a big number may test the limits of rod ends before binding and may contribute to rear toe steer in bump. Toe out is bad news here.
All of the above is highly influenced by the manufactures choices in pick-up points and upright design so what works for one car may be too much or not enough for another...
On the front toe-out, you mentioned preferring a quick turn in to a minimal improvement in stait line stability. I'll go along with quick turn-in feel however a better way to get it may be to manipulate the ackerman angles to give more lead to the inside tire before weight transfers as the cornering load goes up. A toe-out condition could make the car twitchy and nervous on corner exits. Anyways, minimal toe on the front is best for tire wear and race tracks are flat.
We run street settings, however they do work fine for short lapping sessions if you increase the tire pressures.
Castor F/R 4.0 degrees
Camber F/R .5 degree negative
Toe F/R 1/16" in total
Very conservative but the car is light and lively, strait as a laser beam. Plus the tires last forever
Oops, that was more than a couple of things...
Cheers