[Canuk40]

Hi Pat,

Just what's happening? Does the car go from cold to boiling, or warm up normaly but then peak the temperature gauge when you get on it? Do you get hot air from the heater as the temp gauge rises?

Here's what we've found on early cars:

a) The header tank is on the blocked off side of the heater circuit so you can't fill the cooling system without the heater valve propped open. Also I like to drive slowly until the temperature comes up, with the heater on so I know it's got hot water. Then turn off the heater and you should be okay.

b) The Header Tank must be filled above the height of the thermostat housing on the block or your thermostat won't open, never a good thing. Of course this leaves little room for expansion so a separate overflow can must be used. We put a 1 liter tank on the firewall or beside the transaxle for this purpose.

c) The fans may not always turn on when they should, especially if coolant levels are off. You'll get no hot water at the rad if the thermostat doesn't open so the rad fans won't see a turn on signal. The sending unit for the temp gauge also will not read if coolant levels are off.

d) In hot climates I'm inclined to run without a thermostat. Just knock the guts out of one and install the flange back in the housing. If you take out the thermostat and don't put the flange part back in you'll get coolant leaks. No thermostat means the car runs at an idicated 80c which is fine unless you're running a current EFI system that needs at least 90c to work. Anyways, 80c indicated is still much hotter in the heads. This also reduces water pressure in the block.

e) Consider going to Evans Coolant in place of antifreeze or water wetters.

That should get you sorted, please feel free to use the toll free number if you have any questions.

Cheers