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Old 05-27-07, 09:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ricadona
A Tenth
Australia
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Perth Australia
GT40: Roaring Forties
Posts: 152
Rep Power: 7 ricadona is on a distinguished road
Re: Bleeding the radiator system

Hew,
This is how my system is plumbed and how I bleed it so I hope this makes sense in your application ....

The left side rad water pipe has a dash 10 hose fitted to it near the engine and connects up to the bottom of the header tank. This is the fill line.

The rad blead line goes to the top left of the rad to the header tank to allow air from the rad to bleed to the header tank. (1/4" line)

The rear of the inlet manifold has been drilled and is fitted with dash 4 lines to remove air from the rear cylinders. These connect to the thermostat housing.

The manifold outlet connects to the right side rad water pipe.

When filling and bleeding the system, set the car nose down and open the rear manifold bleed lines, the bleed line fitted at the rad end and open the heater valve. When fluid expels from the rad bleed port reconnect the bleed line. Then, keep filling but take your time. You will hear the system gurgle and burp from time to time so slowly does it.

When fluid comes out the rear manifold bleed ports close these as well.

Top off the header tank and leave for a few hours or over night with the cap off. Often the system will settle and air will bleed back during this time.

Next day, top off the header tank again and replace the cap. Start the car and warm up enough to get the thermostat open allowing coolant to circulate through the system. (The car is still nose down)

Allow to cool and check fluid level, top up if necessary. The header tank should be full or there abouts at all times. Also crack open the rear manifold bleaes and check the is no air there.

My RF runs about 80 degrees (C) and on track have seen 105C (On a 38C day)

Hope this helps.
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Cheers,
Rick Virago.

RF40 #035
Silver / Black
350rwhp 347 with Stack EFI
Audi 016 with 3.22 CW&P
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