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Old 09-11-07, 03:11 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Lumpy
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Australia
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Perth, Australia
GT40: DRB
Posts: 54
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Re: Lance's GT40 Australia Build

Peter,

Thanks for your comments. Yes, it is moving along, although still a lot of things to sort out. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I think.

I’m sorry to hear about your having to do the body preparation again. It must be annoying. Your comment about the flat areas is a particularly good one to have though. When my seat shells were modified, they were quite floppy, but, once the fit was correct a layer of Coremat was glassed in. The Coremat was quite thin, but the difference was amazing. The seat shells became very stiff. As a result of your experience, I’m going to reinforce the flat areas of the body with a layer of Coremat. Thanks for the tip.

Jack,

There will be three switches in the console with round knobs that match the dashboard knobs. The front one is actually a joystick (ex Porsche 911) that adjusts the side mirrors. The middle one selects which mirror to adjust. The rear switch selects and open the car doors. I located these switches on the console because they ‘fall to hand’ quite well and the dashboard switch allocations had all been made.

I note that my dashboard has caused some consternation amongst the Locost UK chaps whose website indicates that many of them think it’s OTT. It’s a modern, street version of GT103’s dash, which is quite busy (see image). It’s obviously not to everyone’s taste, but is exactly what I was after.

Bill,

My console has been moved over to the left, but stops at the front of the seats anyway. The coolant pipes continue forward under the floor, so that there is plenty of room for my feet. I bought the Tilton clutch and brake pedals only and we made a pedal box to suit. The pedals are set out to match those on my old Peugeot 205GTI, which worked really well, even with my size feet. Some adjustment is possible. I don’t have a photo of the gas pedal, but will take one to post. The pedal operates a lever on the left of the coolant pipes with a bare cable (less drag) which will run rearwards to a 1:2 lever arrangement. The cable will then run through the bulkhead, at which point it will have an outer as well, and up to the throttle bodies.

On completely another issue, and I must be mad to go public on this before I‘ve had a chance to test it, but here goes:

I’m spending a lot of time trying to get the ventilation in my car to work correctly. GT40’s are notoriously hot, but I want to use mine a lot, so I’m trying to keep the interior as cool as possible. Fresh air vents are installed to keep the cabin air turning over and to avoid stuffiness. The trouble is though: where to vent the air? The usual locations are a vent on the roof or in the rear bulkhead, but I don’t want to do either. Instead, I’ve come up with the proposal to vent the cabin air through the wing mirrors(!). Please refer to attached sketch. I assume that there should be a slight vacuum behind each mirror (I’m going to check how much with a manometer) and this should bleed off the cabin air to allow for cabin fresh air top up. It’s a bit of an ‘out there’ idea, but hopefully will work well enough. Simple and light. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

All the best,

Lance
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GT103_25 (Small).jpg (61.0 KB, 261 views)
File Type: jpg Door Vent.JPG (40.4 KB, 234 views)
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