Building a Custom Enclosed Trailer for an RCR40

I'm embarking on a custom trailer build for a my RCR40 that is due in a few months. The trailer will be enclosed however the car I will pull all this with has a maximum towing capacity of 2,100kg. I need to make the trailer as small and light as possible. My towing vehicle is a new 4 door sedan with a 310KW 6.0Lt V8 so I will easily get up hills but I will pull the trunk off it if I exceed this weight!!

I would appreciate it if a current RCR owner with +2 rear flares could tell me the measurements below.

I know there are many lists of common dimensions like wheelbase etc. but I just want to make sure. DIM A is probably the only different one.

Dim A = ?
Dim B = ?
Dim C = ?
Dim D = ?
Front track (width) = ?
Rear track (width) = ?
Height from the bottom of the door to the ground when it is open = ?

I know I could try Fran but his email is pretty full at the moment and calling from Australia is too late at night.

Thanks in advance
 

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Jason,

I have a +2, but it is under construction and the panels are close, but not perfect. As it is on the lift and wheels are removed, I can only give you A - D. Well, I can also tell you that from the face of one brake rotor to the face of the other in the back is 51" if that helps:

A = 71"
B = 162"
C = 96"
D = 39"

Hope that helps,

Mark
 
Thanks for those dimensions Mark.

If anyone else could tell me the front and rear track of an RCR40 with 10.5" wider rears (& +2 rear arms) and 8.0" wide fronts I would be most grateful. That is measured from the outside of the tyre bead.

Just a very rough 30 minute CAD model to design the smallest enclosed trailer that will allow me to get out of the car! I'm thinking of making the trailer quite narrow with a door on the side to allow me to get out on the drivers side. Depends on the height of the door from the ground as it will need to clear the trailer wheels/guard to open.

Thanks

Jason
 

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Jason, you will also need to know the overall weight of the finished RCR, as well as the front / rear weights. Be aware that it will be necessary to load the car onto the trailer with the rear of the car forward so as to get sufficient nose weight on the hitch, and allow for an anti snake fitting. Has anyone weighed a finished RCR ? fRANK
 
Thanks for the tip Frank. I had already considered using Dean Lampe's measured weights. He stated the following:

Front left 650 lbs Front Right 589 lbs
Rear left 763 lbs Rear Right 715 lbs
Front% 45.6
Left % 52
Total 2717lbs

I will then position the dual axle (using a torsion system with electronic braking) to provide this loading (along with a bit of mass up the front for a small bench over the hitch area). This ensure I can get the correct towball weight.

Jason
 

Fran Hall RCR

GT40s Sponsor
Jason ,
Deans weight of 2717 is with driver and fuel...car alone for transport weight ..most of the time is 2450lbs,
That is also with AC , carpet, full cage , fire system and dry sumped engine.
 
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Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Something else to consider

When the trailer is being towed without the car you will need to get the weight distribution reasonable

I have seen some that actually pulled up on the tow ball before the car was loaded.

Ian
 
Jason, May i suggest some tyre depressions in the inner trailer floor to suit the tryes, with front chocks that clear the front end. Also add ratchet strap tie downs for over tyres in addition to other tie downs front and rear you would usually have. Call it experience . . coming down the Toowoomba range and the safety catch on the pintle hook lets go and opens up leaving only the safety chains hanging on!!. The trailer whipped about all over the place but the only damage to the car was when a display board strapped to the inside of the trailer broke and landed on the roof. Oh and plus the undie change i need when we finally stopped

Russell
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Jason,

I finally remembered about this thread when I was home. I got the tape out and measured for you.

I got 71.5" across the rear clip with the +2 flares installed. For the ground to top of the sill, I have 15" with 4.25" ride height in the front and 5" in the rear (I think).

For the track, I have the front at 58.75" and rear at 58.5" (roughly). This is with nothing more than an eyeball alignment so take them with a grain of salt.

I'm pretty sure my rear wheels are 10" and not 10.5", but they were the standard RCR package so if that's what you ordered it should be what you get. Tires are BFG Comp T/A's with 205/60-15 fronts and 295/50-15 rears, although that shouldn't make a difference.
 

Brian Magee

Supporter
Jason
Have you considered this style of trailer?

Sorry about the quick sketch but I am sure you get the idea.
If it was made from light box tube and covered with thin ally it should be very light. If you use 14" wheels the door should open over the mudguards. You have no doors to make, just a hinge at the front. Asuming you load the car backwards you could reduce the height of the back to suit the car. Also you can make canvas sides to fill the gaps when the trailer is open to make a waterproof workplace. A slightly curved roof would add strength and stop drumming.

Brian.
 

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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
The only thing that scares me about the clam-shell designs is that if they're light enough to not impose a large towing burden, they're probably not heavy enough to keep from being ripped off like a kite or a parachute in the wind if not opened in with the front facing upwind..

The Serpent Express is a good alternative. You can buy the top kits from them as well..
 
Thanks guys for the posts some great options for my towing capacity. This forum is the best!

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Probably like the hard hinged cover for security reasons. Bloody great!
 
Hi Jason,

I had my car transported by a specialist who used this trailer that had a tilt bed and tripple axle; very shallow entry angle. The side doors allow you to drive in and then exit the side door. The top hinged door makes a useful shelter from rain or in Oz the sun.
It's made by Brian James Trailers their website has lots of detail that may be useful.

Steve
 

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Ron Earp

Admin
I think it has been mentioned before on this thread, or maybe on another, but you might want to use a winch. This way you don't have to be able to open the door on the trailer. I can't open the door on my Z car, but I can climb out the window - for now. Fast forward 15 years and I don't know if my body will allow window exits, hence a winch.

I've been pricing customer trailers to fit my rather strange wants/needs/requirements and they are not cheap. So, I make so with a normal trailer. You might be able to also if you are willing to simply use a winch for on/off.

Ron
 
Another less expensive way to have an enclosed trailer is take a standard flat trailer and make covered wagon like hoops from tubing and have a canvas type cover made for it. I remember Dick Smith having one like this for his Cobra and it seemed to work very well and was nice and light.
 

Dimi Terleckyj

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Steve
I like the look of the trailer you posted with the side doors but my only concern with that trailer is that the side doors are suicide doors.

For peace of mind and safety if it was my trailer I would swing the doors to the front rather than the rear so that if they opened the wind would not rip them off while driving.

The locks in this one would have to be absolutely foolproof.

Dimi
 
Not so sure that Id want the triple axle trailer, tyre diameter, axle width, and deck height would make for some undesirable handling traits in my book, and that rear hinged side door would give you & other motorists a hell of a fright if it decided to unlatch at motorway speeds.
 
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