[EGLITOM]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

Very nice Tom!

Would you be so kind as to post some more detail pictures and measurements of the rear suspension?

In particular - I'm interested in how you got all the toe-out dialed back in to acceptable levels.

On my car, with the lower control arms level to the ground, I have about 3/4" of Toe Out on the rears.
I have shortened both the trailing arms as short as they will go.
The Camber is set to Zero
Lower control arm outer heims are centered (depth wise)
Lower control arm inner heim is centered (depth)
I know that I will need to adjust some of the toe with the outer heims, but I also need to lengthen the trailing arms to get back to a 95" wheelbase.

What it looks like I will have to do is to shim the lower control arm "Inner heim" toward the rear of the car by 3/8" or more.

Thoughts?

And THANKS!

Randy:

I used a slightly different approach.

1. I took the spring of the shock to be able to move the suspension to the desired ride height.
2. I calculated it by taking my tire diameter (630 mm ) divided by 2 = 315mm ( not taking in account any squeezing, when the car stands on his own weight and loading the tire). My chassis bottom plate at the rear is at 350 mm from floor. My desired ride height = 5,25"= 133 mm. So therefore the wheel/hub center should be at 350-133+315= 532 mm from the floor. This height i always tried to maintain with the strap during all the adjustments.
3. According to Fran´s reco i adjusted the top radius rod to a lenght which resulted the top control arm running parallel to the gearbox chassis brace ( so app 90° versus the longitudenal axxis of the car).
4. I than shortened the top control arm as far as possible ( giving the most negative camber by keeping the heim joints on the lower control arm as far in as possible)
5. than i adjusted the outer heimjoints of the lower control arm in a way that i have almost no toe out. They are not equally threaded in on is more out than the other. To support this i shortened the lower radius arm as far as possible. This also results in the lower control arm 90 ° axxis ( imaginary line 90 ° versus the outer end of it, hope you understand i can´t explain it different) beeing also almost parallel to the vertical axxis of the car.
6. So now you should have both control arms almost parallel the the vertical axxis of the car. The lower control arm is tilted downwards towards the front heim joint giving you the rear caster ( this one looks a little bigger than nec to me, but i will wait for my digital level to measure it exactly ). You should now also have almost neutral toe ( or an light toe out). The only thing left to adjust, is the camber. This i did with the inner heimjoint of the lower control arm. May be you than have to readjust the outer heim joints a little for the toe , but not much.
7. I did not focus on the wheelbase as a to achieve dimension, but after doing the adjustments like discribed also in my post, it resulted in nicely centered wheels within the wheel wells ( front and rear) and exactly (<1mm tolerance) the same wheelbase left and right. I will measure it tomorrow to give you the exact value.

Hope i could help

TOM