[Big-Foot]

RCR-40 Body Fitting Essentials

Preface
Make no permanent changes or mounts until you are completely happy with the fit of the body. It would not be uncommon to have to go back and make adjustments in areas that you thought were finalized.

1) Level Chassis on Stands
Spend the time to get your chassis as level and stable as possible.

2) Get the front suspension set at ride height
Lower control arms will be level to the ground (Note-1)

3) Good preliminary caster/camber/toe setting
Toe = Zero / Caster = +4 to +7 / Camber = 0 to -1.5

4) Position the front clip so the wheels are centered in the arches

5) Set the rockers to match the front clip at the wheel arch opening

6) Set the height of the front clip’s nose by adjusting the bobbins to the point where the rear-bottom of the front clip sits flush with the Rockers. See Rob’s illustration above in this thread.

7) Set the spider so the trailing edge of the B-Pillar meets with the rear edge of the rocker & also fits close (choose your tolerance) at the windshield base to the front clip (Note-2)

8) Set the rear suspension at ride height
Lower control arms will be level to the ground (Note-1)

9) Preliminary Toe setting on rear suspension
Toe = Zero / Camber = 0 to -1.5

10) Set the rear clip so the wheels are centered in the arches

11) Set the height of the rear clip’s tail by adjusting the mount pivot points to where the front bottom of the clip sits flush with the Rockers. Since this is very similar to the positioning of the front clip - please see Rob’s illustration above in this thread.

12) Install weather stripping at the top of the spider or shims that will place the roof of the door flush with the top of the spider when set in place. (Note-3)

13) Install door hinges per RCR Manual or see any of the various RCR Builder sites for further reference points.

14) Doors adjust to fit - this may mean moving the rocker panels in/out at the front and rear to get appropriate contour from the door to the rocker. It may require some trimming or building of fiberglass to achieve your desired fit tolerance. (Note-4)

15) Adjust gap between rear clip and spider by trimming / building the fiberglass.


Note-1 Loosen the spring adjusters or remove the shocks altogether and use ratchet straps to “suspend” the weight of the suspension to the point where the lower control arms are level.

Note-2 Spider must be supported in the middle to maintain appropriate contour and windshield clearance - BTW - On my car, this is 27-5/8" (so far) - see my build site for more info.

Note-3 If installing Door Eyebrows, this would be a good time to do it as the doors will need to be trimmed to fit properly.

Note-4 (contributed by Ron Randall) I set the top of the doors 1/8 inch lower than the spider, I used a built up gasket to simulate the height, when it comes time to install the gasket I have may different types and height to get the doors to fit. The main thing you want to do is get the door to fit the spider perfect when the door is installed after its been painted I will adjust the door to be 1/8 inch higher than the spider, then use the latch to pull the door down when its closed. I do this so that there is no chance the door can sag and hit the spider as its being shut. Many times in the past I have adjusted a fiberglass door only to have a customer come back with a chip when the door expanded in the heat or just settled into its new home. So by leaving the door a little high, this is insurance that you will not a problem. If after a few months the doors do not move you can always lower them but the only time the door would be high is when it was opened and there is nothing to gauge the difference in height.