[Lance]

Work on my car is progressing fairly well. Most of the systems are complete now. Some odds and ends still to do, but big chunks of work done. I’m extremely happy with the results. It still looks a bit of a mess, but it’s getting there.
Oil System
The dry sump system uses the stock oil supply pump. The supply from the remote tank is through the sump pan so that, if the engine blows up, all the components can be swapped to a new block with no modifications required. Two pick-ups return the oil to the remote oil tank via the scavenge pump. A sump vacuum sensor will tell me if the scavenge pump stops drawing (say the drive belt breaks). The stock pressure sensor is used to confirm supply to the engine. A drain hose runs from the tank underside down to a screw cap mounted on the lower chassis.
An oilstat controls the flow through the oil cooler and gives the oil a chance to warm up on cold days. The oil cooler is mounted in a shroud and sealed against the clip so that all the air coming through the vent will go through the cooler. It’s set back so that any stones will hit the back panel and not the cooler. We couldn’t quite fold the shroud out of one piece, but it will look good when welded. The oil cooler shroud will look the same from both sides.
We were having trouble running the oil lines and fitting all the kit up against the bulkhead. The solution was to mount the filter back on the gearbox. This freed things up and makes it easier to drain / remove. The idea came from a forum member’s car. I don’t have his name, but thank you, sir.
Fuel System
Two separate fuel circuits (one for each fuel tank) each supply the fuel rails. Selecting a tank turns that pump on and shuts off a solenoid on the return line to the other tank. Each circuit has a Volvo fuel filter mounted on the bulkhead. Good filters, cheap and easy to source.
I was looking at using resistors to dampen the fuel gauges, but the level sensors come with inbuilt dampening, so that wasn’t necessary. The tanks have a small sump and internal baffling to resist surging. We’ve calculated that it would take 20 minutes of a constant downhill run with an almost empty tank to lose fuel supply.
Heater
Rather than draw hot air from the radiator or tee hot water off the radiator pipes, heater water comes from the engine itself to get the fastest hot water possible. More of a pain to build, but much more efficient. A small radiator has been put in front of the dash mounted Sanden AC unit. The cross beam air duct has had the holes opened up. The standard arrangement looks like it chokes the airway for the fan too much.
Electrics
The brake switches have been mounted on the master cylinder push rods. A collar on the rods actuates the brake and clutch (cutout for the cruise control) switches. They all live in a box which tidies things up and keeps them clean. A bulkhead plug on the box will be used to connect them into the wiring harness.
We were concerned about water from the front clip getting down into the fuses and relays. The answer was to sink them into the cockpit and put a cover plate over them. I‘m using perspex for this so that you can see them and the Tilton pedals. If I don’t like the look, I’ll change it to an alloy cover plate.
We’re required to have brake failure warning lights here. The master cylinder reservoirs didn’t have them, so they had to be added. E type Jaguar switches were fitted to the caps and do the job. Early Jags use switches, late Jags have sensors. Remember to get the correct ones.
I’m using twin batteries to leave the usual location free for other things. Smaller batteries fit out of the way a bit better and you can have one go south on you and still push start the car. We made up fibreglass battery boxes to suit the location available.
Console
The alloy trim to the console has been made. The alloy gearshift surround and gate is being machined now. The gearshift cables will be covered by the floor of the rear compartment. Kill switch hidden in there along with the control for the heater, which can be seen behind the bulkhead. An extension handle to control this is being made up now. Switches for doors and mirrors are being mounted on the sloping section now.
The bulkhead panel is being made up now. I’m going to try a clear perspex bubble to cover the blower drive pulley (noise permitting). It will let you see the engine spin up by your shoulder and should scare a few passengers.