Rubber moulding for rear clip to spyder

OK, I've used the search function and looked at 38 pages of threads in this sub-forum but haven't found what I'm looking for.

I'm finalizing body prep and tweaking my panel gaps starting with the rear clip and working forward. Without using any sort of moulding, the horizontal surface at the front edge of the rear clip sits maybe 3/4 inch lower than the corresponding horizontal surface at the rear of the spyder. Everything else (sill panel at flares, sides of rear clip at sides of spyder) lines up nicely with the rear clip. On my RF the spyder has a half-circle groove at its rear edge into which some type of rubber moulding should fit. The problem is I'm not sure what the right stuff to use here. I think if I have the proper moulding the rear clip will rest on the rubber at the correct height and I'll need little or no body filler on either side of this panel gap.

My RF kit came with a big box of various rubber mouldings and edge treatments, but none of them seem right for this application unless I'm missing something. So I'd like to look at some close-up photos of the moulding people used in this application. Ideally, if any of the RF guys can describe the rubber moulding they used here that may also be helpful. Thanks.
 
OK, I've used the search function and looked at 38 pages of threads in this sub-forum but haven't found what I'm looking for.

I'm finalizing body prep and tweaking my panel gaps starting with the rear clip and working forward. Without using any sort of moulding, the horizontal surface at the front edge of the rear clip sits maybe 3/4 inch lower than the corresponding horizontal surface at the rear of the spyder. Everything else (sill panel at flares, sides of rear clip at sides of spyder) lines up nicely with the rear clip. On my RF the spyder has a half-circle groove at its rear edge into which some type of rubber moulding should fit. The problem is I'm not sure what the right stuff to use here. I think if I have the proper moulding the rear clip will rest on the rubber at the correct height and I'll need little or no body filler on either side of this panel gap.

My RF kit came with a big box of various rubber mouldings and edge treatments, but none of them seem right for this application unless I'm missing something. So I'd like to look at some close-up photos of the moulding people used in this application. Ideally, if any of the RF guys can describe the rubber moulding they used here that may also be helpful. Thanks.

Hi Mark

I had the same problem with my RF. I have rectified it by attaching a length of the sealing strip supplied for the door openings along the top rear edge of the spider. The sealing strip is the one with the spongy tube that is clipped onto a flange round the door opening. Also I have it on the horizontal element of the spider only, ie not continuing down the sides. This completely cured the problem for me and the rear clip matches the spider perfectly now with no need for filler.

Hope this works for you.

Wishing you a happy New Year.

Chris
 

Jim Dewar

Supporter
Good to see you're back on it Mark! I used a door weatherstrip from one of my donor vehicles. It raised the rear clip level just the correct amount. Send me your info and I'll UPS a strip next week.

Regards,
 

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Hi Mark

check at

McMaster-Carr

type "rubber seal" into the search function and lots of different weatherstrippings will come up in hundret of sizes. I´m sure you will find there what you need

TOM
 
Thanks guys for your helpful suggestions and photos. I'll rummage through my box of RF-supplied mouldings tonight, and if the door seal stuff doesn't work, I'll place yet another order with McMaster Carr. I knew I had seen what I wanted there before, but searching for rubber moulding, rubber trim, and weatherstripping didn't show me the products I was looking for. I think one of these two would be best suited for this application:

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or

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For future reference, these products are shown on pages 3368-3371 of the McMaster-Carr catalog.
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
I used a closed cell membrane black self adhesive strip stuck to the lower face of the rear clip and this then rests on the lip of the spider portion. (The rubber lifts up with the clip and leaves the spider lines clean.

(not that anyone notices things like rubber extrusions when the clip is open)

I got mine from COH Baines http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/
Pages 91 / 92 if memory serves me right for the extrusions / draft excluders and page 103 for the self adhesive stuff I used

Ian
 

David Lowe

Lifetime Supporter
Sorry Mark I missed your post earlier. This is what is on my recently completed RF GT40. Let me know if you want more details.
Regards
David
 

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Thanks all for your advice and help, especially Jim who took the trouble to send me some moulding he used, and to Dave, whose pictures helped me identify the correct moulding among my few remaining unopened RF parts. I also like the idea of using only a short strip in the center of the spyder - less weight, less fitting and finishing.

I have come to the conclusion that the gap between my rear clip and spyder is too large at a hair over 1/4". The lip on the bottom of the rear clip needs to come forward a little so it rests closer to the middle of the half-circle-section channel in the rear of the spyder, otherwise the rear clip sits too high when the moulding is in place. Since I'm already committed with the locations of my rear hinges and body-locating cones and have tweaked the lower-rear-sill-to-rear-clip gap, can't move the rear clip forward to make up the gap. Therefore my only alternative seems to be to lay up a couple layers of mat fiberglass on the forward edge of the rear clip then sand the lip back from the inside.

Aint body work fun?
 
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