Chevron B16 Replica

Eric,
The uprights by Raceleda can be found on any locost builders site in the UK. They are much the same as the set I purchased from GTS Tuning. They are Cortina Mk1 or 2. I do not know if MVR is still in buisiness. Talk to Darren George at GTS in the UK he know's what he is doing (ex F1 engineer)and can get you anything that RalleyDesign sells and ship it to you. Dave, I will e-mail you. I am hoping to have a full set of drawings done by the end of August on Pro-Engineer after I get this all figured out. I hope to layout the bolt on front end next week.
Dave
 
Eric I have a set of drawings showing the new front hubs that I had made with increased off set and incorperating a hat for the WILLWOOD disc`s. These can then be drilled at what ever stud pattern you wish.
Cheers
 
Just an Update,
Last week two Engineering Students from University of Toronto came by to measure what I had done so far. We spent seven hours going over the drawings and taking measurements off my chassis for the CAD drawings. The oringinal drawings were out and I had made the changes for the body to fit properly. So far they like what I have done and have made some plans for my car, other than the drawings. These guys were on the Solar Racer Team for U of T and are looking for another project in alternative fuels. They like all the room I have in the rear of the car and its weight. I hope to have the new steel this week so I can start a fresh chassis. I will keep you posted.
Dave
 
Just an Update.
The new chassis drawings are done and I will be going over them on Monday. I have the new steel and I am ready to go on with the new chassis. I still have the bolt on front end and control arm sketches to do to add to the drawings. I may do two types of control arms. (ball joints and bushings for Cortina Uprights ) The original is pins and spherical joints.(Chevron Uprights) I talked to Roger Andreason in July and sent him some pictures. He said I was the only guy he knew of building a Chevron B16 in North America. He also confirmed my tubing was too large. Everything now is correct and I am trying to find a shop to roll flat some round stock for the rear suspension shock tower mounts. Scott , Jim and Fran again thanks for your help. Scott I will send you down a set after we convert it to PDF alot with a VIN plate.
Dave
 
Accelerator pedal drawing, hope this helps all who need it. It is for the open wheelers (b24, 25 etc) but might be similar to the B16 etc
 

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Just an update. The main chassis CAD drawings are done and I will meet with him this week. I have the suspension bushings made. I am also trying to get some round tubing flattened , run through a tubing mill for the rear shock towers to look close to the original. I may get the shop to make me a small hand mill instead of using a press so I can do one long piece tubing at a time. Any one have any drawing for a tubing mill?
Dave
 
If you need to flatten tubing make yourself a tool that uses 2 steel rollers and guides the tubing in. Go slowly and increase the pressure on each pass untill you achieve the desired shape. You could use an english wheel with some modifications.
 
I was thinking of two flat rollers on top and bottom and two guide rollers on each side to the desired curve of the tubing. I figured chain on sprockets with tensioner to feed the tubing ,power the top two rollers. Like you said make several passes increasing pressure to desired thickness. I am still waiting to hear back from the machine shop. The owner knew of someone that had a setup.
Dave
 
Update,
Cory and I went over the CAD drawings yesterday.(8Hrs) They are just about done. We will finish them up this Saturday. I will try and post a small 3D picture in the future. They are done in Solid Works 2008 not Pro Engineer. We have incorperated a few engineering changes to make it stronger and safer as per input of some of you guys on the site in contact with me and changes we found done on the B19 chassis pictures. Right now I am going to assemble the two front uprights and get the them ready to mount. I am also getting my wheels in order. Media blasting wheel centers, new seals and I have to get one more Compomotive 3" outer for the rear so I can maintain the proper backspacing for the wheels all the way round. The new chassis should go pretty quick now that I have solved many of the problems with the old drawings.
Dave
 
Thank's Italo,
Hopfuly I will get more done this year than last. Lot's of planning involved and you have to rely on other people if you don't have the resources to do some of the work yourself. We still have to add all the suspension points, roll hoop receivers, tabs and bushings. The drawings look really good, We also have to do the upper and lower front arms and the rear lower arm.(I have drawings for that) I am also going to pan the underside in steel along with the front firewall(as per original) to make it a bit stiffer. The roads here are not quite as smooth as a track. The lower side pods will be done in aluminum. I will try to give something to look in the next few weeks.
Dave
 
Thank's Italo,
Hopfuly I will get more done this year than last. Lot's of planning involved and you have to rely on other people if you don't have the resources to do some of the work yourself. We still have to add all the suspension points, roll hoop receivers, tabs and bushings. The drawings look really good, We also have to do the upper and lower front arms and the rear lower arm.(I have drawings for that) I am also going to pan the underside in steel along with the front firewall(as per original) to make it a bit stiffer. The roads here are not quite as smooth as a track. The lower side pods will be done in aluminum. I will try to give something to look in the next few weeks.
Dave

Thanks Dave, for all of this info, I'm sure that all this hard work is going to be worthwile, and will be looking forward to a great car of yours.

Was wondering why you chose the 16 and not the B8, i've always liked the B8, but haven't seen any reproductions or replicas......is your chassis similar ?

Italo
 
Italo,
I was looking for something different. I came across the bodywork and decided to make a go of it. The B8 is similar but good luck trying to find any chassis info or bodywork. You can still get a B8 Chevron Racing(Vin Malkie UK) or Chevron Cars (Chris Smith UK) get your checkbook out. Chevron did build a few B16 road cars in the 80's and I have seen a few come up for auction in the UK. They go for big bucks still. You are on the right site Italo, Ron's done a good job and the guys and most of the Vendors are top notch. I would not be this far along without a lot of their help. Cory the U of T engineering student who's doing the drawings wants to do a B16 for the ECO Challenge (methane(NG) powered fuel cell /electric) He figures the car would do rather well with a low carbon footprint and fuel here readily available. You could call the Chevron B8 and 16 a GT38 based on there roof hight.
Dave
 
Raceleda upright's are no way similar to the GTS tuning ones, Raceleda can be bought from MNR www.mnrltd.co.uk , not MVR.

Raceleda itself is also still in business but they sold the rights to MNR for the Cortina geometry version. Raceleda do other ford upright's and brake kits for them (outlaw caliper's with Raceleda on it).

Cortina Raceleda (from MNR) come in 2 versions: for balljoints and for heim joints/rose joints.

BTW. very cool project, how did you get the molds?


Greetings,

Bram Boekestein
The Netherlands
 
Bram,
I had them made at a great expense. Under the primer the body was pretty rough. Many hours of work myself included bringing back to snuff for a good plug. They are completely original except for the indent for the enameled badge on the nose. ( I have a decal for mine)
I looked at the Raceleda and decided to go with the Ralley Design units based on price. You can run pins in any of these. I have a source in the U.S. and will run a bit heavier uniball on the lower control arm. I could do ball joints and bushing also instead of spherical joints(rosebuds UK) I also have a set of front uprights from John Bridge, Bridge Engineering (Mamba Motorsports) of the two I think that Johns are the safest but more work(machining involved) for brakes and steering arms. John's are cast in the UK and not in China. The reason I went with Darren George at GTS Tuning is that he can get me anything that Ralley Design sells. Ralley Design does not ship to U.S. market any more. At the time I was looking MNR only gave me generated e-mails sorry for the mistake in the name. I hope this answers your questions.
Dave
 
Last edited:
Just a few wheel pics. I have been working on the rear centers and may media blast tomorrow. Here are the fronts. I picked up some older compomtive wheel centers for these wheels of ebay a while back.
Dave
 

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:thumbsup:

have to say, I'm happy to see you progressing on this build! I've stumbled across your previous thread while looking for info on the B16. It was the car that changed my perspective on small engined, light car with good balance - this epiphany came when I saw it go head to head with a T70 at the MOnterey Historics - and come out on top. Any naysayers can rest assured it was a hard fought battle by both cars. The M6GT and T70 have always been favourites, and I have original promo mat'l I got from Marauder in 1989 to prove it.

I am working on a scratchbuilt design of my own and am using the B16 as a reference of sorts. Trying to get a sense of proportions, and comparisons with other cars and their outlines etc. I haven't been able to find accurate info on the wheelbase and track for these or subsequent open cars that followed. Do you know the original WB / track(s)? I did see the 38.5 height which seems to roughly coincide with an image I scaled in CAD at a 92" wheelbase. The Exige looks like a VW bug in comparison!


Flickr Photo Download: chevron_vs_exige

Hammer
o
 
Hammer,
Wheel base is 95" to 97" inches I think it's 70" wide rear and 65" front. I do not have my book. I will be picking it up tomorrow along with new CAD drawings. They are finally done. My pins for the uprights arrived today also. 1/2 " for the top and bottom going to make a sleeve for the lower for 5/8 spherical joint on the lower control arm. When the weather gets warmer I will be going gung ho on the chassis. I still waiting to hear on some flurosilicone O-ring material for my wheel centers. One almost done ready for paint.
Dave
 
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