Update:
Have managed to adjust the suspension more than just with the long ruler, which has been my current setup activities so far.
I build my self a rig for stringing the car. I will go to a full 3d suspension alignment shop later, but i wanted to learn about how the car reacts on adjustment first in my workshop.
I set up the strings parallel to each other and centerered and parallel to the chassis ( if you look into on of my first post in this threads you see that this was also the starting point of the build ). THe strings where set about 7 inches apart from the sill panels. With the Kite string i´m using i can go as exact as about 0,5mm.
The initial measurement of my rough build set up(with a long ruler and a big angle , with which i drove around for 500km was the following:
FRONT:
Toe in 2,5mm
Camber FL: -0,4°
Camber FR: -0,2°
CAster FL and FR: 5,5°
REAR:
Caster RR: 7,2° CAMBER 0° Toe in 3mm
Caster RL: 6,5° CAMBER 0° Toe out 1mm
Wheelbase ( measured rim to rim). 92,3 " right side; 92,2" left side;
Axel staggering front to rear < 2 mm
This was achieved by only counting rod joints thread during installing and making them the same both sides ( found out that i counted wrong on the rear, thus the difference in toe). That means in also that the chassis and all the related suspension components are done on a precision level which is realy amazing. My son works in a porsche dealership and does a lot of suspension alignements there. He reports that even on brand new porsches ( even top range GT cars) axle staggerings of about 5 mm is not seldom to see.
I did adjust the suspension to the following datas:
FRONT:
Toe out total: 1,5mm
Camber: -1,2° left and right
Caster: 5,5° left and right
REAR:
Toe in total 1mm
Camber: -1,0° left and right
Caster: right 7,2° left 6,5° ( didn´t dare to change this ,because on the rear the influence is not so big, but i will change it to the 6,5° value in the right side as well)
Still have not done anything with the swaybars. Front and rear are still adjusted to their softest position.
THe car behaved already pretty good with the initial setup, but it had to less feedback to me. With the new setup it is a complete different animal. Turns in where and when you want, it feels much more planted and predictible. stays straight in heavy braking. THis was the first time i felt i could go faster in that car as with my S-Line A4 on 18"´s. So i went to one of my favorite places where is one turn which i manage with my A4 with 115 - 120 km/h(according to speedometer) with oversteer on all 4 wheels. I tried it two times and at the second attempt i went through with the GT at 125-130 km/h(GPS verfied) with no issues at all. Probably would go through with another 5 -10 km/h faster, but a public street is not realy the place to try.
I also had for the first time set the rev limiter from 6000 to 7200 RPM. Have to do some carb tuning as it on the limit to be to lean at full rpm. so will increase main jets a bit. Having now roughly 750 km driven on the car i get a feeling for it more and more. BRakes are getting better and better, but i will change the masters from currently 1"(rear) and 7/8"(front) to 7/8"rear and 13/16 front to have a longer pedal travel and less force needed ( could go probably down to 13/16 and 3/4 as well, but like to do it step by step). With the EBC Bluestuff pads, they block whenever i want, but the pedal travel to achieve this is pretty short and as on my racebikes i like it a kind of longer travel with less force needed, to have more feel for it.
Also have changed the main crankshaft pulley to smaller one. went from a 4,5 " to a 80mm diameter. With this the waterpump is now 80% underdriven and also the alternator si not as stressed with the high RPM´s. As a result the engine runs an average of 15°F cooler than before. Not even goes to 195°F even in heavy traffic with and with the license plate blocking almost 25 of the opening in the front.
Will check the sensor once again to make shure that this is correct.
TOM