I'm in the early days of my build and still working on what components to use a quick look for 302s and there very sparse on the ground I know it's ideal to use a pre 75 but how much difficulty will it cause buying a newer engine with emissions etc just so I'm not restricted to such a small possible list of power plants for my build.

Regards
David
 
hi David.... I think you would have to run fuel injection .... ECU.... Cats . harder immisions check ... I have a 1969 302 . They are out there look on Ebay . You would rebuild it any way so don't matter to much with condition .. Good luck with your build ..
John..
 
hi David ... my engine just came up in a breakers yard ,There is a company on Ebay that has a few engines from the USA direct . All in need of a rebuild .. Keep looking one will pop up ...

John
 
I probably wouldn't of considered it if it was a 77 I was born in 78 would of been fun to have the engine the same age as me might still grab it anyway if it stays as cheap as it is
 

Mike Pass

Supporter
IVA Emission Information. Kit Cars. New cars being built by Individuals, not companies.
Engine block Date- to 31-7-75 = no visible smoke

Engine block Date- 1-8-75 to 31-7-86 =
Visual & <= 4.5 CO & <= 1200 HC @ normal rpm, hot idle. HC can be
tested at 2000rpm if CO passes at idle.

Engine block Date- 1-8-86 to 31-7-95 =
Visual & <= 3.5 CO & <= 1200 HC @ normal hot idle. HC can be tested
at 2000rpm if CO passes at idle.


Engine block date- 1-8-95 on =
With oil temp at 60 degrees C,
Visual & @ fast idle [2500-3000rpm <= .3% CO & <= 200 HC, Lambda .97 to 1.03
At idle [450-1500rpm], CO should be <= .5%. Catalytic converter/s and fuel injection is mandatory.

Engine block codes
The Ford casting number always starts with the 'Decade' character. Ford started using this structure in the late 50's with the first letter being 'B' . In the 60's the letter changed to 'C' and 'D' for the 70's and so on. The Decade digit is always followed by the 'Year' number. The combination of Decade and Year indicate the actual model year the part was originally designed for.

First character (a letter)
B = 50's C = 60's D = 70's E = 80's

Second character (a number)
Year of decade
e.g. C9 is 1969

Third character
Car model
E,g.
A – full size Ford
D – Falcon, Maverick
E – Truck
L – Lincoln
M – Mercury
O – Fairlane, Torino
S – Thunderbird
Z – Mustang
W - Cougar

Fourth character
Engineered component
E = engine

The second group of characters refers to the part of the car. In this case the engine.

Cheers
Mike
 
That's a wealth of information cheers for that I had looked most of that up just wasn't sure what to expect that kind or year to put out emissions wise yours is also a lot easier to read than the flow chart in the IVA manual

The 78 I was looking at is d8ve first four I'm guessing V is mk2 mustang
 
Casting/Manufacturing date code: 6 B 10

6 = 1966 (Note: You will need to identify the decade via part number on the component first)
B = February
10 = 10th day of the month

First Character = Year within decade (i.e.: 0 – 9)

Second Character = MONTH (see below)
A = JANUARY
B = FEBRUARY
C = MARCH
D = APRIL
E = MAY
F = JUNE
G = JULY
H = AUGUST
J = SEPTEMBER
K = OCTOBER
L = NOVEMBER
M = DECEMBER

(Note: There is no ‘I’ in the month identifier)

Third Character = Day of month
 
Thank you that's great ,are the date codes with the part numbers on a pad near the starter mounting at the back of the block?

Regards Mark
 
Thank you that's great ,are the date codes with the part numbers on a pad near the starter mounting at the back of the block?

Regards Mark

Hi Mark,

They are near the starter number think they are on their own, lay on my back under the car to read them.

Mick at Southern GT for the appropriate fee can sort you out an official dating certificate for IVA purposes.

p.s. Mine where not that easy to read, I spent some time trying to figure out what one letter was until I realised it was just a casting anomaly.
 
On a side note does the whole engine have to be from that age or is it dated from the block? For example could you use new heads on a old engine and still get the emissions test for that year.
Cheers
 
David the only original part of my engine is the Block and crank . All the rest is new .You are allowed to recondition one part if you are going for new reg .....

John,,,
 
Ok guys been to collect body and all sorts from southern gt and also motor no 2 ,anybody she'd any light on the crank and pistons
 

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Body looks cool ,and seems very good quality, very pleased
 

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Ok guys been to collect body and all sorts from southern gt and also motor no 2 ,anybody she'd any light on the crank and pistons

Pistons are for boss 302 heads, crank is 302 cast iron, will depend on rod length ( should be 289/B302 5.155" long ) and whether you wish to build boss style engine as exh ports/bolt pattern will require one of headers for GT40 application. Block would require extra coolant passages drilled to work with boss heads.

BTW IIRC those pistons have a history of cracked skirts in service so check carefully.
 
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It's from southern gt but I am pretty sure it one of lee dawson,s ,it looks pretty good to be honest, I have built 6 Cobra,s and seen a lot of fiber glass body's and this one looks like it's been built by someone who knows what he is doing ,he also fitted the bubble and wider wheel arches ,if you want any more pics just give me a shout or call around if your ever passing ,will have to start a build thread one day.
Regards mark
 
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