Stephan's SLC Build Log

Re: Stephan's SLC Build Threat

This is interesting, and makes me wonder if the problem is the fuel management systems used, and not the ITB set-up itself. I run 48mm ITBs with the Holley system on my LS2, and it works perfectly on the street (idle all the way to WOT) where this car sees most of its miles. It is configurable for every conceivable application (even allows a hybrid later 58x crank, with earlier 1x cam on inputs) I could imagine, and some I couldn't imagine. The more I learned about the programming, the more impressed I am with the product...but it took a lot of reading to understand what all the configurations meant (especially startup related parameters) to the performance of the motor.

I used it with both the dominator ECU and gmpp ECU.

Maybe it's the Harrop's design, i don't know - all I know is virtually every Harrop owner I chatted with had the same issues as i did.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I guess I dodged the bullet on that one then, because the Harrop product was what I was looking at before deciding it was just beyond my budget, and went with the attempt at a self-built assembly.
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
I guess I dodged the bullet on that one then, because the Harrop product was what I was looking at before deciding it was just beyond my budget, and went with the attempt at a self-built assembly.

That is very sharp. You build this from throttle bodies, made all the adapters, linkage etc. and it works that well? Wow.

What a gorgeous car!
 
Stephan,

A destroked LS7 sounds interesting. Who would build the motor? And how much power would it be putting out? Also how high RPMs are you looking to run it?
 

Stephan E.

Supporter
SLC AC fitment

I need help fitting my evaporator unit. I just unpacked my Vintage Air system and noticed that the ports for the heater are on the same site as the refrigerant fittings. Also they are facing toward the wheel house and actually hitting it. Looking around for pictures I noticed that older units have the heater ports on the opposing site.

Thanks for your feedback.

AC1.jpg
 
Stephan you are right the newer unit has re-arranged heater pipes. My old style evaporator was taking months to loose the gas. A difficult to find leak was in the evaporator core. Vintage air replaced the unit free under warranty, so I have experienced both units and already had side bulkhead cut. You can get new one to fit and keep the heater hoses inside the cabin. Last photo is what you have. Others show the copper tubes bent inward and up. I could fit heater hoses but needed very slim spring hose clamps for clearance. I used a drill shank that was a good fit in the tubes and bent them very carefully by hand. It worked with no leaks.

I do not use the RCR 'Anchor' ducting, it is far too heavy for what it is. I made my own smaller molding to adapt rectangular air outlet to 2 duct hoses. This works very well and I drive in Florida 90deg.
If I was building another SLC and making my own ducting I would rotate the unit 90deg. It fits and would make hose runs easier as you have freedom to bring them inside any position that suits. Hope this helps you.
 

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Stephan E.

Supporter
I am reposting this to keep it chronological and under the same title


Here are some impressions on the alterations of the A/C unit. I inverted the evaporator 180 degree and added the servo valve in the back. Easy to service and to move without disconnecting a hose. The housing was shortened and the exit holes relocated back 2 inches. Plenty of room behind the unit now.
Evaporator open.jpg
Evaporator inverted-2.jpg
Evaporator inverted.jpg
AC  Altered-1.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
Thank you John,


Any comment is appreciated.


Here is what I did to the radiator. I converted to -24 AN. The original hose connections had to be cut off due to the openings in the radiator being too small. There was an obstruction and I did not want to take the risk and have a bottle neck in the system. While happily cutting I though why not trying something different... I also installed an very simple perimeter and cut back the shrouding on the fan surround to be able to accommodate within the space provided without overlap to the top and bottom.
Radiator_1.jpg
Radiator_2.jpg
Radiator_3.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
I am not sure if this is worth showing but to get the story complete I think I should document it. Work on the emergency brake calipers.
Emergency brake_2.jpg
Emergency brake_1.jpg
Emergency brake_3.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
I sold the provided RCR seats and changed over to the Tillet B5. Here are some pictures of the bracket fabrication. Now they are parallel to the fuel tank cover and tub in a 45 degree recline.
Tillet Seat brackets_2.jpg
Tillet Seat brackets_1.jpg
Tillet Seats_1.jpg
Tillet Seats_2.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
...more radiator pictures. Here you can see how the -24AN tubing looks in action in the front end. I decided to mount the condenser to the side without any contact to the radiator and fill the space with the horns.
24AN Radiator_1.jpg
24AN Radiator_2.jpg
Nose_1.jpg
 
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Stephan E.

Supporter
Hello David,

thanks for reaching out. You are correct. It was an easy method to block air from escaping underneath the radiator. Another reason was that the condenser is only mounted on one side and the hinge will support the condenser along the entire bottom. It also can flip forward and you can work on the radiator since there are not connected. This is a solid installation and nothing had to be invented. The hinge is very light and an easy and affordable part to source.

Cheer,

Stephan
 
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