McCopy mk 5

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Rod, Jac, you are both correct. Its a Mclaren trust lapel badge that I ground the pin off, traced the outline, milled the hole and tidied up with the Dremel. Thought it looked the part.
Jac did you see my question whether I needed a balance pipe on my 1UZ headers, will it improve the sound?
Cheers
 
Yep, post #180 Russell, as to the sound the larger the balance pipe dia the more it will diminish the V8 rumble. Tends to make a more sophisticated sound for want of a better explanation, Id have built a muffler if it was me!
 
Thanks for that Jac, sorry but I did not scroll back and missed your responce. The mufflers are baffled chambers ex STA as they are being `silly` with sound levels. I believe my level is 94db and I get a 4db credit because its a race car replica! I was thinking of not putting in the balance pipe? Your thoughts thanks.
PS I understand that the 1uz has quite a sharp sound.
Russell
 
Back in post #172... are you going to have mufflers straight on collectors or cross them from L to R over the T/Axle to get some length?
 
Yes Jac, crossed over the transaxel to keep some length in the pipes. I will re assemble the set up tomorrow but its very much the same as my last car only this time we are using baffled can mufflers.
Cheers
 
Jac, they are M&H mufflers and I can fit a balance pipe of around 30mm dia into the collector where it becomes 4 into 63mm pipe just behind the heads and in front of the top rear cross member / brace.
If there was no real advantage, i would leave it out being a road car.
It seems like a massive amount of muffler but they are very strict on certification.
Cheers
 

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That's why I suggested a single muffler with an inlet & outlet on each end, more compact and does away with need for a balance pipe as the muffler 'can' performs that function.
 
Jac, I kinda looked at a single muffler but grew concerned about noise levels so went with two. I will leave as is with out the balance tube as its very easy to install later if I don`t like the sound.
Hope your sitting back with a beer or two tonight, I have just opened a red.
Regards
Russell
 
JO's TVR has one muffler- two 3" in -one oval 5" x 3" outlet, got pinged for 96Dba @ Levels /Timaru @ full throttle /7800, Cut tailpipe & rotated 180° to point other way and added two >> shape baffles to restrict in tailpipe- dropped to 88Dba- Then JO wanted the other 7 Dba back, hard to please some guys!

Couple of cold stubbies in fridge, Bruce Willis/Diehard II on one channel & tribute to Bee Gee's on now- just got some leftover new spuds from xmas on the go... All the best to you & Carol for 2018.
cheers
Jac Mac
 
Ride height for the road?
I was planning on running around 80 to 90 + for static ground clearance and would like some input on droop versus compression measurements as when set up, ride height with adequate compression falls between the two sizes of shocks I have available.

Longer shock... has significant droop but around 40mm of compression which would only leave around 35 to 45mm of ground clearance on full compression from hard cornering or over a bump.

Shorter shock. This will allow me heaps of compression and room for a good bump stop how ever would have little droop from ride height, ie 30 to 40mm droop. So when you went over large undulations, got some lean on or lifted the car the wheel could be clear of the ground. Given the width 1.85mtrs and very low, I don`t think it will roll much. My main concern is the lack of compression space the longer shock leaves me with.
Any thoughts please.
Cheers
 

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Hi Russell, my personal view on this is more droop than compression would be better (a) if you only have 90mm ground clearance you don't want a heap of compression (b) you want your wheels in contact with the road at all times ie, over rises and undulations. Just my opinion. The car is looking good mate.
Cheers Leon
 
Russel,
I'm with Leon I want my tires touching all four corners at all times I would rather come down on the bump stops than come off the ground. Rod
 
Had to have a break with this hot sunny weather and do a bit of work on the motor home, really just an excuse to try out my new spray gun ( self gifted for xmas). Very happy with the results, the `stupid` manufacturers clear coat the fibre glass and it goes yellow with the UV, so it was a few hours of sanding and then the fun part with the final colour. Doing it outside was a blinder as it was almost impossible to see the grey undercoat whilst putting on the top coat in the bright sunshine.
Still it all worked out well.
Cheers
 

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Been an exhausting couple of days..scuse the pun.
Everything set up with just a couple of welds to do insitu, then its HT paint and wrap before bolting them up for good. I have mounted the mufflers this way so that I can have the longer tail pipes which I can stuff with some other sound deadener if needed on certification. There is heat shield underneath to protect the trans.
Most of the rear suspension is set up for final fit now, just chasing a couple of bolts.
Cheers
 

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Help!!!
Working on getting bump steer minimized, so I have set up two guide extensions on the front discs to see toe in / out on suspension movement and have come up against a lack of knowledge for cures.
If you look at the picture showing the two sets of measurements, rack forward and rack rear, I am puzzled as to my next move. I can get neutral toe with 50mm bump and 100mm ride height but keep on getting lots of toe out on 50mm droop. I am reluctant to cut my mounts down further until I have a better understanding of action / reaction / cure. Any suggestions will be welcome.
The measurements are a little exaggerated as they are 500mm forward of of the axel centre line because its hard to measure with the radiator in the way.
Looks like the mice have found a new home!
Cheers
 

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