McCopy mk 5

At last I can relax, that`s the last big bit of molding behind me. 1.5hrs to gel coat, wait 4 hours then 3 hours of hand laminating and its all OK. I was a little apprehensive as I had previously started it on Sat and had a gel coat failure due to over doing the catalyst (2%). I was being a little bullish wanting it to cure so dropped back today to 1.25% as the temp was 22deg and rising. The nose section has been laid with 4 layers of 450gram chopped strand matt rolled out with a small fluffy roller which leaves a great surface as it mixes the surface up and removes joint laps. I also tear all my segments up and this also eliminates join lines. You will also notice that there are numbers all over the place, I number 1 to 4 each torn segment and it becomes a foolproof way of seeing / checking how many laminates you have placed.
I will let it cure for a couple of days then give it a squirt of compressed air to pop it out. The mold has now got a couple of chips around the guard louvers as they were a late addition, otherwise it will just go into storage. They only ever built 3 M8b`s, I am on my 3rd so its time to build something else.
Cheers
 

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Doing a really good job Russell. I'll be over in a month or so, will try to catch up with Leon, and was wondering what part of N.Z. you are located in.
Regards, Udo.
 
Terry
I have attached a drawing cross section of the spoiler lip showing how its attached. Once its `stuck` you can then glass it over.
Udo, I am in Auckland, Murrays Bay and would look forward to meeting you. Let us know closer to the date and we can make it happen.
Cheers
 

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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Terry
I have attached a drawing cross section of the spoiler lip showing how its attached. Once its `stuck` you can then glass it over.
Cheers

That verifies my observation that the spoiler gets thicker as it descends down the back side toward the rectangular rear panel opening. Thank you again.

Terry
 
Two into one muffler with twin outlets.
Does anyone have designs or comments on the construction of a muffler as described above?
Due to `TECHNICAL ERROR` my mufflers are very close to the body work and protrude out the back 30 to 40mm which means that there can be no grill work fitted. I may rebuild the system with one large muffler of appropriate dimensions.
Still working on the body work and hope to check fit the doors and nose clip over the next few days.
Cheers
 

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I have been looking at how Flow master mufflers are baffled and have drawn up what I think could work, the main difference is that mine will be side entry versus end entry. The body will be one piece with a division down the middle to separate the `two` mufflers and there will be a balance hole in the middle.
Not sure how quiet it will be but there is room to put stuff up the two tail pipes to quieten it down for certification.
Your thoughts.
Russell
 

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Try this, about 2.5" thick lengthwise installed in car, added a bit to the drawing to hopefully clarify..
 

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Jac, many thanks, that looks very similar to the Flow master one so we are on the right track, I picked up some perforated pipe to help with the noise baffling. I should have listened to you in the first instance. At least I only have to remake the muffler as all my connections are bolted / flanged, I do not even have to remove the headers to replace the muffler. One trick I can use when sound tested is to block off one side and force it all out one pipe....hopefully a bit quieter.
Cheers
 
Well after numerous measurements and estimates when fabricating the chassis, all the body elements are roughly in place. The only area where surgery was required is the same as on the original cars, the front shock tower mounts protrude into the wheel arch / radiator well. Simple shapes will be fabricated to cover there.
I have also got the design / method sorted to have the doors tipping out and folding back to allow short legged people access, this also gives easy access to both the fuel and drivers side pods. I plan on having the doors fixed in the fold out/down position for the certification process as in general they will not be used. I am not sure how my gear lever position is going to work our as its quite hidden under the right hand body work. If needed I will change to a center mounted lever via cables.
Cheers
Now onto making the mountings for the nose and tidying up the panel fits.
Then some paint.
 

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Bit more progress, all panels mounted and check fitted. Spent the last few days making the light boxes and sorting out how we will adjust the hi low beam lights. These units are Harley Davidson sealed LED units 140mm in dia. The polycarb lens will be glued and screwed in place. I have also made a mold for the dash today and laid it up so hopefully it will just `pop` out of my mock up. Not much more of the dusty stuff to do and then we can get back onto final assembly.....and maybe even start on the wiring.
Cheers
 

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Pushed the boundary`s yesterday and made the mold for the dash, waxed it a few times and then laid it up. Woke up this morning and first task was to check if it separated and as you can see it did. Fabricated the steel backing mounts and glued them in place so the entire dash can be removed for ease of wiring etc. Was going to coat it in carbon cloth but decided to do vinyl instead as I am running low on resin. Spent 3 hours fitting the passenger door into the body work, its made more complicated because it opens out / down then pivots forward to enable easier access. This function has to be hidden for the road certification although I suggest it is just to get access to the fuel tank!
Next big job is to rebuild my mufflers into one single canister a little shorter to stop it sticking out the rear.
Cheers
 

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Bit more action in the shed with the car more visible now that the dust and fibre glass part is all but done. I have got the bodywork all but ready for the epoxy undercoat and final detail sanding ready to paint once summer gets here. Its now back to the assembly of the chassis and then wiring etc. I have had to change my muffler system due to a small measurement error which meant that the original mufflers protruded out the back by about 35mm...not acceptable so I have had to fabricate a shorter common muffler canister which is divided / baffled inside and also performs the balance function. It has meant that I needed to change the slip flanges to clamp together flanges on the inlets! After 5 months of resin, dust and fumes, its a pleasure to get back to nuts and bolts.
Progress will slow down for the moment as we are off for 3 weeks down to the South Island so may get as far south as Invercargil and get a look at some of the Southern builds.
Russell
 

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No action in the shed for the last 3 weeks as we have just done close on 4000k`s around the south Island. Had great weather, 1 frost, no snow and plenty of cool sun with day time temps more than acceptable. Managed to call into Classic car developements and look at Andrews GT40, what a masterpiece and it will be a beautiful car when completed. I was very impressed with the build quality of the other Jaguar replica`s on site and the skill / workmanship you can see. Sadly my pics are to large to post. We will be back home in a couple of weeks.
Cheers
 

Randy V

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New forum software will go live in a couple of weeks or so. It will handle up to 12mp photos and automatically resize them. :thumbsup:
 
Finally back to sq one with the exhaust, the original mufflers protruded thru the back of the car about 20mm prompting a rebuild from two mufflers to one muffler with joint interior which also meant that the balance pipe could be removed. By careful design and construction, I was able to use all the original pipe work with no changes. The muffler is fully baffled with an internal balance hole and is packed with stainless wool, should it still be noisy then I can still stuff further baffles up the last of the exhaust pipe.
Now I can get back onto the assembly.
 

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BUMP STEER ...HELP PLEASE
The last time i played around trying to set up / remove bump steer, I ended up more confused than ever so gave up and got on with other tasks.
The Toyota upright appears to have a raised bottom ball joint so that my geometry thru the ball joints is suspect. Can some one please `run the numbers` and point me in the right direction thanks.

The first time I looked at the MicroTech computor instructions, they could have been in French...little did I understand, how ever by knocking off all the simple bits first, the hard stuff seemed to sort itself out. I have used fused relays thru out to avoid switching large loads so there is a bit more wiring, this is almost 90% run now and I am just looking for what I have left out. Like the dash, now modified to accept the speedo I forgot.
 

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Looks like the rack needs to be lengthened, can you take similar pic from further away to reduce the divergence? error in that image, needs to include both top/bottom ball joints plus chassis mounts .
 

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Jac
Thanks for that, the three points, contrary to the photo angle are in the same plane.
Top chassis mount thru the rack ball to the bottom chassis mounts. From memory, my graph`s were saying lower the rack.
Cheers
 
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