You need an opening at the top / highest point of the radiator to allow air to be bled out.
So no
Send the radiator back and ask them to fit a bleed point
Ian
URG...
You need an opening at the top / highest point of the radiator to allow air to be bled out.
So no
Send the radiator back and ask them to fit a bleed point
Ian
Hi pat, Sorry for the delay in answering your question. The top vent in the radiator and the steam vent from the top of the intake manifold both eliminate air pockets the coolant system. The “Steam” is dumped into the top of the expansion tank and ulitimately vents to the coolant recovery tank. Fluid Make up back into the engine from the expansion tank or the coolant recovery tank is only liquid with air seperated out. In reality on my CAV, the expansion tank, the intake vent, and the radiator all connect via a tee coupling. I understand this to be a standard air bleed method. Hope this is helpful.
Do you know if there is any other way to bleed a system if the radiator doesn’t have a bleed port?
Can I use the steam port at the top of the manifold only to bleed the system?
Steve, when i get home tonight i will post some pictures of manual operation weld in vents i added to the very top of my radiator. I also have a welded in line that connects to the expansion tank. Pat, I agree that having both radiator and intake vents are some what redundant but working together they throughly clear air from the system within minutes of a coolant refill with no need to worry about the degree of tip or rake of the car.
Have a look at this picture
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30801&d=1215116428
My radiator and in the same location a bleed hole, fitted with a Allan he’d grub screw.
Loosen the Allan head and release air, pinch up tight.radiator now full of water.
Repeat process a couple f times a year till you stop getting any air
Ian
Steve, I'm sure Bob's pics will be what you need. As for the fitting size, I'd go with whatever may be on the header tank available from Active Power. You may want to ask Chris about the setup he used in the other customer cars. I think I have a -4 fitting.
Also, I'm near Orlando, if find yourself in the area, bringing the kids to Disney etc. you're always welcome to come by and take a look at my '40 or take a ride. PM me for contact info.
I wonder if it’s safe to drill a hole in that mounting thread. Wouldn’t want to get metal shavings in the coolant system, but it is a good idea.
Have a look at this picture
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30801&d=1215116428
My radiator and in the same location a bleed hole, fitted with a Allan he’d grub screw.
Loosen the Allan head and release air, pinch up tight.radiator now full of water.
Repeat process a couple f times a year till you stop getting any air
Ian
You can minimize that with a shop vacuum nozzle next to the drill bit and a good radiator flush afterward. If the threaded lug is 1/8 NPT you can try one of these:
Moroso Cooling System Air Bleed Valves 63765 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Glad it worked out Steve. I think you'll find it useful maintaining your build log on the forum. Others will find it interesting and may provide a suggestion or experience they had that's applicable to your situation.