Kurtiss' GT-R

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Thanks!

Larry, as you know, the billet suspension parts are beautiful just the way they are from the factory. I decided to go 1/2 step further on the upper and lower A-arms only. I used fine sand paper to remove the surface machining marks then a buffing wheel and Tripoli buffing compound to give them a polish but not a high gloss. I don’t plan on sealing the surface since I live in the southwest desert.

Also, in reference to Mark Setter’s build thread “Mark's GT-R Build”, post #155, he mentioned the following:
“… I mentioned in another post that I sent my polished suspension parts to get anodized. After some discussion, I elected to try clear anodizing. The company I used told me that the anodizing would not keep the polished surface, and that they would reduce the time used to anodize to try to keep as much polished luster as possible. They suggested not anodizing the rear upper control arm due to the fact that it has a ball joint embedded in it and they were not sure they could block it out completely.

The anodizing certainly creates a quality surface, but it is a satin silver surface. If I had to do it again, I would either leave the polished surface alone and use WD40 on it periodically, as Fran suggested or I would anodize the parts in Black.”​


I may use WD40 as noted - time will tell how the finish will hold up to the hot and dry climate.
Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MLH

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Rufus,
I'm glad you like the "road map" for the Graziano transaxle installation. I had a lot of questions when I was assembling mine and thought others would find this useful.
 
The car is almost ready, but the engine is on backorder till March 31. Aluminator 5.2 XS crate engine. It may still make it in time for Fran to install engine and Gaziano for shipment. All good things are worth waiting for. I've been to H Craft shop outside of Atlanta. Amazing work. H is an artist.
 
Kurtiss thanks for the info yes the anodizing will create a dull finish unless you ask for bright dip which will create a shining surface I have a few ideas of my own I will share with the group once I figure out exactly what I want to do I may lean towards powder coating
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
I decided to raise the front splitter to improve the stance and/or gain an extra 1” of ground clearance. H supplied some great information on suspension mods for after the splitter is modified.

I haven’t worked with fiberglass so this was a new experience and so far, it’s been fun. First, I measured and marked the location of the front clip, radiator, heater and brake lines then disassembled the front end.

The splitter was modified to provide a flat surface when bolting it to the chassis lip. The bottom surface was ground flat then multiple layers of fiberglass where applied for strength. I then bonded a 3” wide, .2” thick aluminum strip to raise the splitter. Overall, the splitter will be raised 0.85”.

Next the vertical members will be cut and re-drilled, then the radiator and front clip install.
 

Attachments

  • A03B8170.jpg
    A03B8170.jpg
    468.8 KB · Views: 891
  • A03B8227.jpg
    A03B8227.jpg
    455.7 KB · Views: 888
  • A03B8240.jpg
    A03B8240.jpg
    436.7 KB · Views: 884
  • A03B8244.jpg
    A03B8244.jpg
    223.6 KB · Views: 845

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
When waiting for the fiberglass resin to cure, I worked on the seats, fuel system and emergency brake handle.

The seats were raised 2 inches for proper eye height. On both seats, I used 1.5” square tubing under a Sparco seat adjuster. I machined spacers and epoxied them at the seat attachment points for added strength.
 

Attachments

  • A03B8110.jpg
    A03B8110.jpg
    441.4 KB · Views: 802
  • A03B8262.jpg
    A03B8262.jpg
    355.7 KB · Views: 802
  • A03B8265.jpg
    A03B8265.jpg
    431.8 KB · Views: 920
Last edited:

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
For comfort, I shortened the emergency brake handle brackets then bolted the assembly to the floor. I machined a bracket for the cable support and will finish the install soon.
 

Attachments

  • A03B8226.jpg
    A03B8226.jpg
    444.7 KB · Views: 814
  • A03B8231.jpg
    A03B8231.jpg
    323.6 KB · Views: 841
  • A03B8266.jpg
    A03B8266.jpg
    393.6 KB · Views: 864

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Attached is the diagram for the fuel system. I used hard lines between most items and will build flex lines for the rest once I determine the final routing.
 

Attachments

  • GT-R Fuel System.pdf
    919.2 KB · Views: 535
  • A03B8186.jpg
    A03B8186.jpg
    356.5 KB · Views: 856
  • A03B8251.jpg
    A03B8251.jpg
    413 KB · Views: 896
  • A03B8252.jpg
    A03B8252.jpg
    472.7 KB · Views: 875
  • A03B8250.jpg
    A03B8250.jpg
    459.2 KB · Views: 884
Kurtiss how are you making out on your car more pics please here is the new home of what I call GTR's Northeast
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    278.1 KB · Views: 830

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Hey Larry, sorry I haven't replied in a while. Your GT-R Northeast garage is beautiful. This will be so nice when building your car.
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
I completed the splitter modification. I had some left-over Raptor bed liner material and sprayed the splitter where it was modified. I also machined inserts and bonded them to the splitter for the battery tray fasteners to eliminate bolts/nuts from protruding too far below the splitter.

I then adjusted the lower section of the front clip to mate squarely with the front bonnet then bolted and bonded the lower section to the FRP retainer as shown. Now it looks nice and flat across the bottom of the chassis.

Then raised/installed the radiator after carefully checking the overhead clearance and reinstalled the AC condenser and lines. I discovered that the driver’s side forward most brake fluid reservoir will interfere with the front bonnet so I relocated it to the other side as shown.
 

Attachments

  • A03B9866.jpg
    A03B9866.jpg
    410.1 KB · Views: 808
  • A03B1178.jpg
    A03B1178.jpg
    702.7 KB · Views: 730
  • A03B1180.jpg
    A03B1180.jpg
    657.2 KB · Views: 698
  • A03B1155.jpg
    A03B1155.jpg
    477.4 KB · Views: 769
  • A03B9945.jpg
    A03B9945.jpg
    569.5 KB · Views: 953

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
The splitter was modified to provide clearance for the coolant tubes. The 1.5” diameter aluminum tubing has been positioned and marked and ready for welding.
 

Attachments

  • A03B8240.jpg
    A03B8240.jpg
    415.1 KB · Views: 747
  • A03B9853.jpg
    A03B9853.jpg
    359.9 KB · Views: 781
  • A03B9852.jpg
    A03B9852.jpg
    542.5 KB · Views: 772
  • A03B9863.jpg
    A03B9863.jpg
    665.8 KB · Views: 798

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Oil Cooler - Two ways to go; 1. Install a separate oil cooler, remote oil filter and the Ford engine oil adapter all using -12 AN lines and fittings (as recommended by Ford), or 2. Utilize the existing oil/coolant heat exchanger and filter that came with the Aluminator crate engine.

I was beating my head against the chassis until I ordered/received a remote oil filter mount and looked for a good out-of-the-way location. Well, there is none! Then, mounting an oil cooler in a location with good air flow with -12 AN lines/fittings would take up more valuable real estate so I decided to keep the original oil/coolant HX. I purchased a lower radiator hose from an F150 that has the oil cooler coolant line diffuser that I will use to plumb lines to the oil cooler. Should be clean and out of the way. I’ll post photos when I get to that point.

Warning: The stock oil filter/cooler adapter may restrict the oil flow. The last two photos show the adapter passages from the engine side. You’ll notice the threaded pipe (that holds the oil filter and HX) extends well into the oil passage. I machined down the pipe to provide better flow. Also, the other passage had restrictions due to the way it was machined. I used a Dremel to open up and smooth out the area.
 

Attachments

  • A03B1173.jpg
    A03B1173.jpg
    528.3 KB · Views: 844
  • A03B1186.jpg
    A03B1186.jpg
    436.3 KB · Views: 721
  • image1.jpg
    image1.jpg
    205.1 KB · Views: 717
  • image2.jpg
    image2.jpg
    419.3 KB · Views: 722

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
The Vintage Air system that comes with the kit includes a Chevy LS type AC compressor. Many builders have adapted this compressor to the Ford modular 5.0 and 5.2 engines but I opted to install a stock compressor for a simple and clean installation. This is a tricky install since there is no belt tensioner or compressor adjustment. The belt will stretch and keep the proper tension once installed. Need to follow the factory Mustang workshop manual for installation instructions.

Note: Vintage Air has all the pieces/part numbers for a bracket to install the LS type compressor but they will not sell the individual pieces, only a whole kit including the PS pump and compressor. Very poor customer service.
 

Attachments

  • A03B1138.jpg
    A03B1138.jpg
    412.5 KB · Views: 719
  • A03B1151.jpg
    A03B1151.jpg
    642 KB · Views: 653
  • A03B1182.jpg
    A03B1182.jpg
    482 KB · Views: 689

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
My Borla induction includes the FAST XIM (ignition module), XFI (fuel injection) and VTC (valve timing controller) control units and 5 wire harnesses (a total of 32 connectors). I installed the controllers on the forward side of the firewall behind the seats. Due to possible RF interference, the XIM module was mounted 18” away from the XFI and VTC modules.

Since this system was designed for a front engine car with multiple options, the wire lengths were too long and some connectors were not needed. The photos include the Air Temp sensor, Manifold Air Pressure sensor, Throttle Position sensor, and Idle Air Control. I’m currently working on re-routing, shortening and re-wrapping the wire harnesses and installing fuel pump relays.
 

Attachments

  • A03B0530.jpg
    A03B0530.jpg
    662.1 KB · Views: 770
  • A03B1189.jpg
    A03B1189.jpg
    561.8 KB · Views: 732
  • A03B1160.jpg
    A03B1160.jpg
    489.2 KB · Views: 731
  • A03B1144.jpg
    A03B1144.jpg
    378.7 KB · Views: 694
  • A03B1162.jpg
    A03B1162.jpg
    449.1 KB · Views: 742
  • A03B1165.jpg
    A03B1165.jpg
    469.2 KB · Views: 746
  • A03B1173.jpg
    A03B1173.jpg
    528.3 KB · Views: 897

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Thank you H, that means a lot!

My son used Forza Motorsport 5 video game to render the following images of what I want my car to look like. It is amazing how realistic the images are.

It may take another year but I'll get there...
 

Attachments

  • My Forza GT-R Forum-.jpg
    My Forza GT-R Forum-.jpg
    423 KB · Views: 840
  • My Forza GT-R Forum-15.jpg
    My Forza GT-R Forum-15.jpg
    424 KB · Views: 813
  • My Forza GT-R Forum-5832.jpg
    My Forza GT-R Forum-5832.jpg
    443.4 KB · Views: 803
Kurtiss I'm sorry your going to have to change your base coat color as long as it is not brandy wine black cherry I'm good just kid in I will have to get my 14 yr old always playing video games to do a concept for me that looks awesome and I agree with H really nice work
 
Back
Top