Bundle of Snakes ???

:confused:The angle of exhaust exit?::confused:

From what I have gathered on the limited amount of GT40s I have seen in person, due to the angle of the pipes at the end of the system, how do you run your engine with the rear cover in the up position?

Lynn Miner took his rear cover completely off his car to test the Webers at the tune-up shop.

But really, is that the only way you can run a GT40? Take the whole cover off?

I thought a person could hook up a temporary deflector pipe to route the exhaust gases out the rear cover exhaust hole?

What do you guys do? :confused:

Thanks in advance for your input!
 
I run mine alot with the clam shell up. As long as things are well ventilated , no problems with it. My exaust does come out onto a piece of heat shield I placed on the clamshell.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I have hung a sheet of amuminum from the holes in the vent on the top of the rear clip. When the clip is open the hanging piece of alum ( 18" X 18" ) hangs vertically in front of the exausts a few inches.

If the proper insulation is applied to the underside of the clip it would take quite a lot of running to dammage the paint. At idle I don't bother. I set the timming the other day and just went for it without my shield. Took about 15 mins and I had to run the engine to 3000 RPMS a few times to set the timming at max advance to 34 degrees.

Very little if any heat buildup on the paint.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I have hung a sheet of amuminum from the holes in the vent on the top of the rear clip. When the clip is open the hanging piece of alum ( 18" X 18" ) hangs vertically in front of the exausts a few inches.

If the proper insulation is applied to the underside of the clip it would take quite a lot of running to dammage the paint. At idle I don't bother. I set the timming the other day and just went for it without my shield. Took about 15 mins and I had to run the engine to 3000 RPMS a few times to set the timming at max advance to 34 degrees.

Very little if any heat buildup on the paint.
 
I just set a piece of 5/8" thick plywood on the open rear and let it lean against the tailpipes. Works great. Nothing permanent at all.

Dave
 
From experience I would think that the heat buildup is not the real problem. Working with the "66 Road Car", we quite often had to have the rear hatch open to prime the webers as he only cranked it every once in a while. What I observed and probably is what you should be concerned with is soot buildup on the underside of the hatch. It isn't that hard to clean, but if you don't have something easy to clean between the fiberglass and the exhaust it just may be. There are some places that water can get that may play havoc with the electrics on the rear hatch. So I would opt for some aluminum or stainless to deflect the exhaust. Better yet would be to do as the chassis dyno shops do, and that would be to put some flex tubing to the ends of the exhast to let it keep the exhaust away from the fiberglass. If you are in the garage, it keeps the buildup of gasses away from the work area. Carbon monoxide will give you a killer headache when its content becomes significant. I remember cutting a concrete slab in the basement of a house cut into the side of a hill. We ran fans to the room but would have to take breaks every 10 minutes of so due to the nausea and headaches.

Bill
 
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