General build costs....

[Graham]

Hi everyone,

I'm (almost) in a position financially to order my GT40. However, I need your advice.

I don't want to get into the old "IMHO this manufacturer is better than that manufacturer" etc etc... that has been done plenty of times.

I would like to know, in peoples experience with their own replica's, what the general cost of build has been, WITHOUT engine and tranny (as this is different to each persons spec and taste). Also how much of their build has been done "From the Manual" and how much has been an addition to the kit of available parts...

Scratch built is irrelevant to me, as i don't have the skills to do that (not in a million years...)

Throw into the mix peoples experience of importing their replica's (RF, RCR etc) and it will go a long way towards helping me (and maybe others) make a decision.

Once again, thanks all for your help on this. I know that each person has a preference, but once the information is boiled down, it will be of great benefit.

Graham.

 

[Martin]

Hi Graham,

I bought my rolling chassis including steering, suspension (Fully rose jointed), body, wheels and tyres, knock off hubs and spinners and all panelling completed and powder coated for around £17K inc VAT two years ago. Since then I've probably spent another £10K on parts, but I have opted for expensive brakes. I still don't have everything I need, but most of it is here. Paint will be additional and probably £3K for a decent job. My engine and tranny were another £12K.
Not a cheap thing to do.

I've also done a lot of B-Spoke things to the original package which hikes up the cost a bit and takes longer to complete but I've not included any in my costings. Take a look at my build log for more info.

Hope this helps.

Martin

 

[Mike Pass]

The attached spreadsheet may help you as you can put in your own costs. As you will know the cost will vary dramatically depending on how fancy you want it to be and what you are going to use it for. The parts values I have put in are ballpark figures for a reasonable useable road spec car in the UK. I have seen builds varying from £15,000 to £70,000. Join the enthusiasts club and talk to your local owners. The more you knoew the better you will be able to refine what you want from your car. I know what I would buy but it's your money and your choice. Hope this helps.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Simon]

Graham,
If you decide to go for one of the more established manufacturers (tornado and the now defunct GTD for example) you will often find part completed examples for sale. Even if you have to strip them down and start again, they can be a very good way into GT40 ownership. It's certainly worth keeping your eyes open. You also don't have to go to the manufacturers for all your parts if you are on a budget, it may be easier and you'll be assured they are compatible, but if you're on a tight budget, searching around can save you money. Best of luck.

Simon

 

[Ian Anderson]

I have a DAX (No longer available)

I bought it as a part built project

If I add up the invoices for everything the first owner spent along with everything I spent it is about a £45k car - excluding labour

Now 1st builder bought everything new like brand bew Saab 9000 front brakes for the rear at about £700 - if I did it now I doubt I would go that route.
He also bought a brand new Rover motor for £4k and then spent £6k with John Eales having it Tuned! Oh and went into a Renault garage and bought a new UN1

He probably spent £33 - 35 of the total and never had the thing run and gavve up - so unless you are serious about the build I'd seconf Simon and say buy 2nd hand and modify to suit your needs

Ian

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

FWIW I think you are better off with a running car, which you then update to suit your tastes and needs. For my project, the $150,000 mark probably went by a while back, I am sorry to say. Hopefully the finish line will be before $200K is spent. Had I this to do over again, I would have done it another way- but the number of other ways was far less ten years ago than it is now. Buy a roller or the best running car you can afford, and get some driving time on it before you start changing things. Good luck and all.

 

[Dave P]

If you go the scratch build route depending on how much you build yourself and get donated. 15 to 20 thousand here in the states.

I have seen bodies as low as 2500 pounds in MKII form

 

[Jack]

There is no such thing as a "General Build Cost". It is ALL up to the individual builder and how much time/effort/skill required for the build. A real fabricator who builds everything himself can easily spend nearly the same as a "Turn Key" purchase because he will not take shortcuts or accept anything less than perfecton. The timeline will be greatly expanded and time = money.

On the other hand, a purchased body and fabricated chassis can save a minimal amount. Engine/gearbox choice is the big money saver. In either case, the purchase of a used built car, even without running gear saves in the end. IMHO...

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

It's the little stuff that gets you, in addition to the big things like a ZF transaxle, etc. Hoses, clamps, wiring- the list is endless. GT40s are complex cars, for period race cars, and a lot of bits are hard to find, or can't be found at all. If you buy a complete car, you at least know that things fit together and will work together- then you can begin updating stuff or making changes. Trying to create a sixties race car from scratch is unbelievably difficult- do you want to be a car builder, or a car driver? Unlikely you can do both, at least not at the same time.

 

[Leon]

Hi Graham, I've been reading what the guys have said and it all makes sence and is correct but I think the best statement is Jimbo's "Do you want to be a car Builder or a car Driver" If you want to own and drive then you need to bite the bullet and buy a running car. The time taken in building is endless, Just spend some time looking at the build logs and take note of the date of the first post to the last post. In most cases it will exceed 3yrs. In my case I spent 6-9months just researching and doing drawings before I started my Log and It has be going for at least 6-8months and I haven't even scratched the surface, I also chose a car mush simpler to build as its a race only and not a street car. So decide which your are and go for it, all I can say for building is the "Trip is the best part of getting there" and expect to spend 30% more that you think it will cost. Leonmac

 

[Leon]

Gezz, I just checked my log, its only been 5 months, Seem's longer, I must spend too much time on hear, Cheers.

 

[Jack]

Leon, don't feel too bad. 9 months for me and have not started final assembly.
All the small, endless details have been worked out though!

 

[Dave P]

Jimbo and Leon are right
Time seems to slip away. It has been about 18 months since I spent the first money and months of research before that.

 

[J. Salmon]

The time can get to you. I am going to be at two years, but that will be to a running car, not to the end of the update road. I don't think the tinkering ever ends.

One nice thing about the way the money is spent is that you pay for the kit and then you buy parts along the way. So you can kinda move at the pace that your budget allows. Things are tight but you need a widget? Mock one up and build it yourself. Sitting on easy street? Order that snazzy billet version from vendor X.

I don't think the finished product requires spending a lot on the drivetrain. The attention to detail goes a lot further towards a very nice build.

 

[Jack]

J. +1

The details are what makes the difference between a so-so car and an outstanding (and much more valuable) example.

 

[Leon]

Yes , the thing that has stood out more than any other since I joined this forum, the attention to detail and research these guys put into their cars. I always wanted to build a GT40 but when you start looking at it properly to do a half ass job will get you a runner but it will not be a nice car and there aren't too many "Just runners" on this forum. Another reason for doing the car I chose, I don't know that I have the detail skills I see Here. Cheers Leonmac.

 

[Graham]

Thanks to all you guys for this info. I agree that many of you guys on here build absolutely fantastic cars, and your attention to detail is outstanding.

I'm pretty damn sure that i can't match the skills of many of you, but i'm willing to do the very best that I can do, and in the end we'll see where that takes me!!!

Cheers,

Graham

 

[Dimi Terleckyj]

Hi Graham

The one thing you should always bear in mind is that with these cars they will always be looked at very closely and critically.

If you do something in a cheap and fast way it will always let you down in the long run when it needs to be re-done and any time or money you think you save is lost during the rebuild process second time around.

I know I had to think long and hard about what the final finished car would be and would I be happy with it first time around during my build.

I wish you all the best in whatever you decide but most of all have fun doing it and dont dwell on the time it may take just work through each day at a time .

Dimi

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

I am up to at least nine years, maybe ten. I actually don't want to know, nor do I really want to know how much I've spent. No, thanks.

Having said that, it would be hard to do it in a more difficult way than I did: start the project in NZ, move it to UK, then to America, knowing that things aren't going to fit and are going to have to be fiddled to get them to look like a car that was NOT built in a remedial shop class. (the only kind I'd qualify for, frankly)

Maybe it would be helpful if I described the experience I had with my Kirkham Cobra- I ordered the car in February, it was delivered in May or early June as a roller, I had the engine and transmission in within a few months and all wired and plumbed (did these at home, and I should have built the damn engine myself as it turned out, I would have had to do far less over), and then a month or two at the shop downtown sorting out everything. I have three or four thousand miles on it now. I am still sorting things out, with the help of the Kirkhams (who are the best guys in this whole business, let me only say) I also had the benefit of having the engine tuned by a close friend who used to build engines and dyno them for RHS in Memphis. If there's a Nobel Prize in Holley carburetor tuning, he may qualify for it.

My point is that even with the car arriving here in a nearly complete state, there has been PLENTY to do, and the car absolutely feels like something I did, not just bought. Even if you start with a running car, you'll still end up with enough sweat equity and time in it that you will feel like it's your project. For your own peace of mind, don't start with an empty piece of pavement and attempt to create a car from thin air.