How are your panel gaps???

Randy's thread got me thinking. I took a close look at my ERA and they are nice and tight. Same size gap on all panel lines, doors, etc. I just saw my first GT40 replica by another manufacturer at the Palm Beach International Speedway and couldn't believe the gaps. Non consistent and so large you could drive a truck through. I never would have noticed this before. The difference really is in the details. I'm sure the originals varied quite a bit, but I have to give ERA credit for putting in the effort that most people(including myself befor Randy's thread) wouldn't notice.
 
I figured it was best not to say. It wasn't an SPF. I was hoping other owners would critique there own cars. I don't want to throw stones. I was just surprised at the differences compared to mine. Being a turn key car from ERA, are nice gaps the product of a quality kit or the care and attention during the build, like in Randy's case?
 
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Original cars would have been average at best from photos that I have seen.
I think we have been spoiled over time by machine finished panels and our expectations are at a level of a new vehicle manufacturing techniques.
It is up to the builder or assembler.

Not perfect is OK in my mind because it can add character and give the car age.

Jim
 
Not perfect is OK in my mind because it can add character and give the car age.

Jim

I suppose that's the nice way of saying you're too unskilled to do proper bodywork and too cheap to pay somebody to do it for you.

lol
 
Yes thats correct I have no skill.
And come to think of it I am cheap as well.
Again you are correct Alex.

I better put LOL on the end

Jim
 
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Ian Anderson

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I suppose that's the nice way of saying you're too unskilled to do proper bodywork and too cheap to pay somebody to do it for you.

lol

Alex have a look here
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/16127-roaring-forties-105-a-18.html

Jim's not unskilled - but I am :)

My panel gaps are similar to those seen on originals like the Ford UK car TES1E registration from memory and yes I was on a very tight budget.

I need to do some re-align work when the waather improves but will I get perfect gaps - not likely

Ian
 
I own a CAV and admittedly the gaps on MY car aren't Rolls Royce quality and could improve. But, I'll also state gaps on other CAV cars I've seen are much better. Pat Chaffin's car comes to mind as well as Johnn Keyser's former car which I recall being much better then mine. I'd suspect the car you saw might have been (probably was) a CAV as I can't think of another company that might have been at this event given numbers of cars sold by them. Gaps were't high on my priority list when buying having seen originals. So I'd be in Jim's camp and agree with his position.

As for Jim Cowden not being skilled, Alex me thinks those words need to be taken back having seen his car.....still one of my all time favorites and one I'd love to own.

My last .02 is this Mike.....ERA is, without doubt, one of the best there's been so your words do not surprise. There's an ERA 40 not far from me that needs to be completed and awaits someone coming to her rescue and putting her on the road.
 
Original cars would have been average at best from photos that I have seen.
I think we have been spoiled over time by machine finished panels and our expectations are at a level of a new vehicle manufacturing techniques.
It is up to the builder or assembler.

Not perfect is OK in my mind because it can add character and give the car age.

Jim

Well according to my GT40 guru Mike Pass who I have to rely on because I am far to young to have seen original GT40's when new. The panel gaps on the original cars were atrocious, to quote "you could get your hand in them"

My car is being built to original spec, as regards panel gaps, unless I get someone else to do the bodywork ;)
 

Randy V

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Guys, I am probably getting a bit anal about the shut lines on my car, but I just can't see making them huge. However, the distinct advantage to making them huge is that a panel or door misalignment will be less likely to foul its neighbor. This is one of the reasons I have chosen to NOT close up the gap between the spider and front clip. If I ran a 3mm gap there and if the front end took a mild tap, it would telegraph into the spider and most likely break the windshield. As it is, the clip will hit the leading edge of the doors.

The gaps I have right now are at 1/8" but they are not yet finalized. That will happen with finish sanding just prior to priming the car. I expect that they will open up another 1-1.5mm.. Once painted ,that will close them back up to a finished 3mm - 1/8"... Too tight? Maybe.
Yes, I have looked at hundreds of pics of the originals and like I said in my build log, some gaps are almost non-existant to absolutely huge looking - estimated to be 3/8" or larger in some cases.. Remember that competition cars will generally run larger gaps for the reason I mentioned earlier here..

I'd love to hear more about some of your experiences and what your shut lines are and how those have held up over time..
 

Randy V

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A post from my build log shows before and after on one of my doors as I re-aligned and surfaced it to match the clip and spider B-pillar..

January 18, 2015
Feeling Groovy…

I managed to get the right side door shut-lines closed up a bit.. These were not as bad as the left side but required about 2mm of bondo to bring into play..
IMG_5887_zpse3edb522.jpg

IMG_5908_zps5ab088b0.jpg

IMG_5909_zps8040dd8b.jpg


More about the patchy looking door in the next post.. :worried:
 
Mike
I believe its up to the skills of the person preparing the car. I know with my era the gaps were very tight almost non existing leaving it up to the body shop. The man that did my car (Tony now Passed) was such a craftsman i have no problem with panel alignment or gaps especially on a black car
 
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