Looking at buying... need advice/opinions - CAV Mono

Hi All,

I've been lurking/toying for a while with the idea of buying a GT40…. today I finally managed to have a look at one close up and personal.... now i'm here! :pleased:

It's a CAV Mono (v early edition).
The car was raced previously (came in a light blue) but during racing the engine was blown and a new one installed - not raced since (as far as I'm aware) and now painted in Silver.

Exterior looks great (bar the scrapes under the front) - classic Mk1 look which i love.

Interior/Engine wise I could do with some honest opinion on what you guys think. I'm not adverse to picking up a spanner or two - just thinking am I biting off more than I can chew or should!?!

In any case, apologies for bombarding with pics - I didn't know what some people would find valuable and others not…. so they all go up :)

Cobra brakes on the front, same for rear as well as PBR - guessing the PBR is the handbrake?

Uprights look more modern than the older ones i've seen (CAV stamped on inside).

Engine - not sure about any of it to be honest - hence the pics.

I never got a chance to drive her so no idea how she feels but would appreciate opinions/thoughts/identify engine/parts etc :)

Cheers for any responses
Yuzzy
 

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Seems to be a nice machine, I personnaly like cars with signs of use, this one has the kind of patina I like... Just some care here and there, and it will be 100% lovable...:heart: Not flashy bling-bling car, but seems to be a good street machine.

The engine seems to be a 302 block crate engine from Ford Racing...? (if not only some labelled head covers put on it !) They are well done, very reliable engines for hot street use and some track days from time to time.
I have a 347ci from them, with the same carb on my GTD, and I'm very happy with it. Not very racy, top of the range set-up, but simple, solid and reliable for a street/trackday car.

The gear train quite looks nice too.

A test drive is mandatory ! And bargain or not will depends about the price ... !
 
Thanks Pierre - i couldn't tell if it was a 302 or larger - still need to google the serial nos and do some research... bottom end is painted blue.

looks like an audi gearbox (5 speed) but am confused on the 2 calipers on the rear?

was a little stuttery to get going but settled down - a bit wide when pulling out of sharp junctions -and not sure why but the 6 lights on the dash - the top left one lit up red.

looks like pedals fixed in place so seat must be respositioned i guess.

pulled away in 2nd from relatively cold and revs but no get up and go - figured clutch wasn't ready, that settled down just wonder if thats quite common on V8's and these cars - sorry only used to 4 cylinders! ;)

fuel pump switch - normal to hear clicking in each position (whilst engine off but ignition on)?
 
Thanks Walter, spoken to Jordi a few times this week and last... I think that might be best.
Will see if i can commandeer one of his mechanics for a couple of hours ;-)
 
Esteban, Welcome to CAV. Some points to consider:

Nice car, nice color, just needs a wee bit of TLC
Looks like an Audi 016 Gear box (5 speed although 1st is useless) Don't do any drop clutch starts in it either.
Second caliper on rears is hand brake.
Check front uprights well. Early cars had some issues (I'm told!) The fact the car was raced may or may not bode well for you.
VDO gauges, brake bias adjuster on center tunnel.
17" Halibrand wheels, good for you as performance tire's more available
Is original owner known? Get as much info as you can from him or other owners if possible.
Serial # of car? Factory might have info on car and possibly engine builder since it is a SA car. Yes?

As Walt suggested take the car to CAV and let them go through it. If they don't know about the pluses and minuses who will.

Good luck and drive it like you stole it.
 

Pat

Supporter
Welcome to the forum. The CAV you're looking at appears to be a pre-100 CAV MONO and the VIN number on the CAV identification plate (which is blacked over in the photo) will tell you that. The seats look like upgrades from the early MONOs.
The second caliper on the rear wheel is for the emergency brake. All the calipers are made by PBR for the 2000-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra and used on earlier CAVs.
The pedal cluster should have three mounting points to accommodate taller drivers (and those less so). The seats also have a few inches of fore and aft adjustment (there should be a lever on the front/right of the seats).
The clicking is the fuel pump which is controlled by a switch on the dash - there is one switch position for each side and of course off. They are enabled when the battery switch (on the door sill) is on as well as the ignition switch.
The top red light in the dash cluster is the alternator warning light (it normally goes out once the engine fires). The other red lights indicate check the hand brake or fluid. If it stays on that's not good and should be checked out. Hopefully the oil pressure gauge was indicating healthy pressure.
Verify all the accessories, lights, A/C etc.work and that both fuel cells hold fuel without leakage. The earlier cars are over ten years old which is the suggested life span of most fuel bladders. Never compromise safety!
Obviously the car needs to be straight and not showing any indication of damage to the MONO or suspension pickup points. You also need to drive it and then you can make decide the value proposition of what it's worth to you in relation of what the seller is asking you to pay. Cars with issues can get very expensive very quickly. The photos indicate the car has not been lovingly cared for and the surface rust is a sad thing to see. The good things is that the stainless chassis doesn't rust and with a lot of care and elbow grease, this car could be brought to a beautiful standard. It may also be available at a very good price. The surface rust can be great negotiation leverage.
CAVs are good cars and many of us have been really happy with our purchase over the years. If the price is reasonable and the car is sound, it could be a wonderful opportunity to own a replica of a true classic.
 
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Be cautious, these early cars have a lot of safety issues, and you need to be aware that you will need to visit and modify much of the suspension components to be confident in the car. Other issues are the fuel and coolant systems, quite a lot of modifications needed here too,
Frank
 
Thanks for the responses guys! :thumbsup:

Lot's to think about - hopefully this weekend I get to have a look at a newer model to have something to compare it to.

Didn't manage to check the front uprights - but guessing same condition as rear.

The red alternator light came on during low revs btw.

Fuel bladders added to my check-list - it's getting longer by the minute.

Definite rust spots - which is a real shame - and IF i take the leap alot of elbow grease required, part fun part pain lol.

No drop clutch starts - got it :laugh:
The rev's increasing though was a concern - same way i'd test a normal car - whack it in 5th at 30mph and floor it - if it goes nowhere odds on the clutch is on it's way out, at least thats my test - but I don't know about these V8's and if that was expected.

A couple of cracks behind each rear wheel arch, right at the bottom.

The scrapes at the front could be taken care of with a ceramic plate or similar protection.

Pretty sure he's the first and only owner, but with racing rose/heim joint condition, hub carriers etc... can become a money pit rather quick!
 

Pat

Supporter
As a point of reference, my CAV is 13 years old and the cooling system as well as the rear suspension are stock and work great. The big issue with the cooling I had there was figuring out how to bleed the air out of the system and getting the correct thermostat selected. The A/C isn't going to give anyone frostbite but for most days it's adequate.
I have replaced the front uprights and Autofutura (the prior management) posted a safety update many years ago to reflect concern as to the wrong front suspension upright hardware used on some of the early cars. If you search the forum you can read it.
As for the fuel cell, I've replaced mine as I would any bladder over ten years old.
The good news is that a car this old should have had many of the teething issues sorted or it would not have survived it's track day service life. The bad news is that any car of this age needs careful scrutiny as to possible points of wear and abuse. It would be of interest to discover what changes/updates have been made to the car as well as the input of a knowledgeable independent mechanic's inspection. Not all of what may have been done may be better than stock. You also have a big plus in that you are located near CAV so parts and service should be accessible.
Before I purchased my car I had a thorough inspection conducted by Alex Job Racing here in Central Florida and they made a few suggestions and tweaks that were most helpful. But the vast majority changes made with my car are personal preferences as to appearance, handling, comfort and performance. But that can be the fun of it. I think you will also find the forum of great help in not only selection but owner support in whatever path you may choose.
 
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I have CAV #40 and just flushed the coolant system on the car. I was concerned about air pockets in the system and asked the forum for advice. Several responses recommended using an Airlift II device to re-fill the system.

Bought an Airlift and followed the instructions. Also watched a U tube tutorial. Re-fill went smoothly and have had no problems with engine temps. We've had a warm spring here in Arizona and I'm satisfied that the coolant system is full and doing it's job.
 
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