RIDE HEIGHT

[chip]

I see that the original ride height of 40's were 5 inches. I measured the Gulf car last week at Amelia Island Concours and that's about waht it is. A man here in Atlanta is building a Tornado GT$) and that is where he is seyying his ride height. My Cobra replica bottoms out somtimes and I measured it tonight at 9 inches. I have a skid pan and the engine IS much lower. My questions is: IS 5 INCHES TOO LOW FOR THE STREET? cb

[Chris Melia]

Hi chip

My car is at 5" and I live on a farm. The sump on my 351w engine is level with the bottom of the chassis and the air cleaner on the holley is below the rear window by 1"

Regards Chris [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[Brian]

Chip, I have seen more than one GT replica with aluminum skid rails on the bottom of the car to protect the belly pan, I intend to do the same with my GTD, changing them out and disposing them as necessary. Brian

[Peter D]

Brian - good idea. I had planned to rivet some pieces of "chequerplate" aluminium at 4 strategic points under the chassis as jacking points. If I run one long piece under each side, this should do both.

Peter D. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Bob Putnam]

The original cars raced with 4.2" ground clearance and the street cars had 5". You really have got to do some serious "rallying" to bottom our cars - unless you can find an extreme hump to drive over slowly...

[ March 18, 2002: Message edited by: Bob Putnam -ERA- ]

[jimbo]

I think you are fine with 5" ground clearance as long as you are very careful about speed bumps and inclines. When I get to the point where I am setting my car up for driving, I will set the ride height a little higher, probably 6".
At least one Mk4 car which was modified for street use was fitted with wooden rails to protect the underbody. Metal would also work. However, if the rail is intended to be a sacrificial item that gets replaced as needed, let me suggest another material: there is a dense plastic board called Starboard, through marine outlets, that is easily workable with hand tools, inert, comes in a few colors, and is a little slick to the touch. It would be perfect for this; it will slide over things. It can be attached with screws or bolts (heads would need to be recessed) and is durable enough that it would last quite a while. It is also weatherproof and fairly well heat resistant.
In its 1/2 or 3/4 thickness, it is strong enough for a jacking plate. It is also fairly light. Where to get this stuff? Boating outlets generally have it or can order it. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[MK -IV J6]

I drive 3 of these cars on the street. My MK-IV is at 5.5 inches, my Lola T-70 is at 5.5 front 6.5 rear, and my Ferrari P4 is at 5.5. So far so good.

[JayT]

I have bottomed out my Tesstarosa (5.25") on speed bumps in DC area (go slow over bumps but hell-alot-of-fun between). There are even a few areas where road dips will cause the car to bottom. Never have had problem with Porsche at 6".

[MK -IV J6]

Problem with Testarossa(I have one with over 130000 miles) is overhang. (distance from center of front wheel to leading edge of car) This distance, on the street is as important as ride height. The shorter the better. Wood strips on MK-IV are orignal.

[John Woerheide]

hey mkiv-j6, sounds like you have an awesome collection. that p4 must be neat ....
Do you race any of them ?

[MK -IV J6]

Thanks. I realize I'm very lucky to be a costodian of these bits of history and plan to pass them on to my children so I'm very carefull with them. I do use them. On sundays I drive them on the road. My MK-IV has thousands of road miles. One day as I was coming home I ran into a snow shower. I think I'm the only person who's ever driven a MK-IV in the snow. I have raced my MK-IV up the hill at Goodwood. My Lola was just finished last year so I've not driven it as much yet but it is a great driver. I've shown both of these at various concors. The P4 is still being restored and is a ways away.

[norman falkiner]

The standard roaring forties height is set at 5 inches which is fine for all but the most extreme gutters and speed humps. The problem area on my car is the overhang at the front which tends to be a little light on paint,but you would have to be bowing very low to notice. Just an aside , I was talking to one of the orignal team who was with the Wyer cars at Le Mans and he was telling me the cars were raised to meet the required ride height by placing wooden wedges in the springs and once over the measuring board they would leave a trail of wooden wedges on their way to the pits!!!! regards

[Frank Catt]

We have found from a lot of experience that the optimum for us is 4.0 inches at the front chassis at a point between the wishbones, and 4.50 inches at the rear again measured at a point between the wishbone. We find that, whatever the height you choose, that a half inch difference in height(front to back) works best. On Robins car the sump pan sits 1.50 inches below the chassis, which is OK on a smooth circuit, but I am getting a little scared for our trip to the Isle of Man, where the roads are less than circuit smooth. Frank

[John Woerheide]

hey that's cool, I'm a custodian too. small world. I have 2 Lola Can Am cars that I wish I could drive on the street, but they would look funny with turn signals. I'm sure you know the story of Gt40p 1046 with the shag carpet and rear view camera....?
What state do you live in ?

[MK -IV J6]

My Lola is the second T-70 that Donohue talks about in the Unfair Advantage. It went on to become th SCCA A Sports champ and the all time Mt Equinox hillclimb record holder. After I bought it, before I couped it I did drive it as a Spyder on the street with turn signals from a coupe. Driving a can-am Lola on the highway on starlit nights is something I remember 30 years later.