MK-I MK-II MK-III MK-IV GULF MIRAGE J-CAR LOLA
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05-28-05, 05:37 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Some solutions I\'ve found Here are a couple of things I've tried that seem to work. I put an BSR heat shield between the headers and the Air Conditioning condenser coils. It's greatly reduced the radiant heat. Boeing makes the shield and they use it for spacecraft. The other is a more presentable aero type inner filler cap option from Newton in England. It's from a motorcycle gas tank. Please share if you have a solution for the good of the order. |
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05-28-05, 05:37 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found The cap... |
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05-28-05, 10:18 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | A Tenth 
Join Date: Oct 2003 GT40: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 124
Rep Power: 6  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Pat, to control engine bay heat, I coated the combustion chambers, the exhaust ports and plan to coat the inside of the headers with thermal coatings from Calico. I also think I will try some kind of stainless steel/asbestos sandwich material to protect the engine cover, You don't have an engine lean problem or ignition timing problem do you? Wayne |
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05-29-05, 06:47 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Hi Wayne,
Thanks for the follow up. My car from an internal engine standpoint runs cool and that has never been a problem. I do use a wetting agent for the water though to aid cooling and fight corrosion.
The heat shield is to protect the air conditioning system because the placement of the condenser is right next to the headers and it degrades the A/C performance, especially in traffic. I think that Ian or someone moved it to the front of the car, which is the best solution. |
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05-29-05, 07:28 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found But then I guess engine bay heat is a relative term [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] |
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05-29-05, 11:53 AM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Brian Kissel Lifetime Premier Supporter 
Join Date: May 2002 Location: Sheridan, Michigan USA
Posts: 245
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found I always thought that was a HOT color, but I never realized just how HOT it was !! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Regards Brian |
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05-31-05, 06:45 AM
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#7 (permalink)
| | John W 6 Tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Surrey, England GT40: lots of bits but not bolted together yet...
Posts: 626
Rep Power: 11  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found I like that internal fuel filler. I wonder if that would comply with SVA requirements in the UK too... |
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06-02-05, 05:10 AM
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#8 (permalink)
| | brettmcc 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Essex, UK GT40: RSGTD
Posts: 1,304
Rep Power: 20  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found John,
You'd probably have to fit the original caps afetr the test...
Brett |
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06-02-05, 06:27 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | IanAnderson Gold Supporter 
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Heathrow, London, UK GT40: Dax 40 Mk1 (Rover3.9EFi)
Posts: 1,282
Rep Power: 17  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found John
SVA needs 2 things 1) the hinge section normally is above surrounding body and this is a potential to cause injury so would need radiused curves etc. This is beaten bu puttinf rubber covers over for the SVA test.
The second is requirement to seal which I believe the normal caps do sufficiently well. I know others have fitted similar "internal" caps in the UK - Ask Desmond Finnan at next week's meeting to show his - I believe from Audi TT and really neat inside.
Ian |
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06-02-05, 07:43 AM
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#10 (permalink)
| | John W 6 Tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Surrey, England GT40: lots of bits but not bolted together yet...
Posts: 626
Rep Power: 11  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Thanks Guys.
I thought the problem was the possiblility of them opening in an accident (no twist lock action, or locking, which is why the cheapo plastic bungs are no longer legal).
My thought was to fit one of these inside the existing filler, but I guess if that is still going to fail there is no point.
I'll try to remember to ask Desmond next week to have a look. All food for thought. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Cheers,
John. |
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06-02-05, 09:44 AM
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#11 (permalink)
| | brettmcc 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Essex, UK GT40: RSGTD
Posts: 1,304
Rep Power: 20  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found You may also have to consider the size of the filler neck opening as well. Best idea, get a book of VOSA and enjoy some bed time reading [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Brett |
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06-02-05, 09:41 PM
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#12 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found As a point of clarification, the caps in the photo do twist and lock and they are bolted on over the welded stainless filler plate with a gasket. While my car is more than a week-end and occasional track (SCCA SOLO 1) the tech guys gave it a clean bill of health. I modeled it after the set up I saw on one of the original 40's. |
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06-03-05, 04:33 AM
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#13 (permalink)
| | Rookie 
Join Date: Jun 2004 GT40: Chesterfield, UK
Posts: 62
Rep Power: 5  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Demon Tweeks do something similar in Aston, Monza or Classic style http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalogue/...PCODE=MOCMON25L
although the Classic isn't shown online, only in the catalogue, the part no: is CLA3 |
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08-20-05, 11:16 AM
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#14 (permalink)
| | Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2003 GT40: Florida, USA
Posts: 272
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Here is what I ended up doing for the radiator screen. It's stainless with a large bow in it to allow more air and let plastis bags and other FOD move around it. |
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08-20-05, 06:12 PM
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#15 (permalink)
| | CraigW RCR Australia 
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 535
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Veek, that stainless mesh screen is a great idea. I wonder how much it interferes with the air flow.
I've got ugly air con condensor and some messy plumbing/wiring in front of my clip and have seriously thought about a mesh. Mounting it further back off the front of radiator/condensor is a attractive option. Mesh right out in the front of the nose, wouldn't work for me, so now I have another option to think about...thanks. Oh, I hope you don't mind me stealing your idea.
Also great to see the front clip painted. |
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08-20-05, 08:05 PM
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#16 (permalink)
| | Fatal Attraction Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Lewes, Delaware, USA GT40: Ex-DRB #35
Posts: 1,498
Rep Power: 21  | Re: Some solutions I\'ve found Craig,
I made up stainless panels for all of the holes on my car (radiator, brake vents, induction holes, side scoops, rear clip), and never noticed any change at all in running temps. My panels are all glued directly to the glass, using split 1/4" vacuum hose as gaskets.
Bill |
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