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		<title><![CDATA[GT40s.com - GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></title>
		<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Petrol, Electrons, & Water]]></description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 22:44:01 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[GT40s.com - GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Carb percolation and vapor lock</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40488-carb-percolation-vapor-lock.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:23:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Now that summer has hit and local fuel has gone to a greater ethanol content, my car is starting to have percolation and vapor lock stalling when it...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Now that summer has hit and local fuel has gone to a greater ethanol content, my car is starting to have percolation and vapor lock stalling when it sits after a long run. Having attended a show last weekend, a number of other folks reported similar issues with their carbureted cars. Has anyone had any luck with a specific additive to raise the fuel boiling point or used any of the carburetor heat shielding blocks with success? As you know with a '40 there isn't much clearance between the top of the air cleaner and the rear glass (I have 3/4 of an inch) so the big phenolic blocks aren't really an option.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Veek</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40488-carb-percolation-vapor-lock.html</guid>
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			<title>12V To The Radiator Fans</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40472-12v-radiator-fans.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:52:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[In an attempt to diagnose my Lucas radiator fans not operating I'm wondering this: There are two wires, black & red, coming off the fan. For testing...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->In an attempt to diagnose my Lucas radiator fans not operating I'm wondering this: There are two wires, black &amp; red, coming off the fan. For testing purpose, I attached 12V power supply to the red wire and when I put a test light on the black wire I have 12V power there too. I'm assuming that's not right, is the fan defective? <br />
<br />
I am going to do further test on the relay as well because I'm not getting power to the fans at all when connected to the proper plugs. Seems to me this power source issue may be related to the defective fans.<br />
<br />
Tim<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>aladinsane</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40472-12v-radiator-fans.html</guid>
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			<title>What paint to use on radiator pipes</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40470-what-paint-use-radiator-pipes.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 10:07:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all 
 
I am going to have a go at painting the end of my copper radiator pipes today and wondered what type of spray paint and primer I should...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi all<br />
<br />
I am going to have a go at painting the end of my copper radiator pipes today and wondered what type of spray paint and primer I should use. Do I need to use high temperature paint or will regular automotive spray paint work as I am not sure how hot these pipes get?<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Trev<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>trevorsummers</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40470-what-paint-use-radiator-pipes.html</guid>
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			<title>EPAS (Electric Power Assist Steering)</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40446-epas-electric-power-assist-steering.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 02:32:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Several of the members for various reasons are adding EPAS(Electric Power Assist Steering) to their cars. We have found out that the heavy steering...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Several of the members for various reasons are adding EPAS(Electric Power Assist Steering) to their cars. We have found out that the heavy steering at low speeds is a real drawback to enjoying our cars. Just cuting one out of a bone yard and transplanting it to the cars is not just a cut here bolt there kind of setup. They require sensors that tell engine rpm and car speed. I can be corrected here by those that know more than I do.For now I plan to use the pulse signal from the Stewart Warner speedo. It has a magnetic sensor that reads the bolts on the front hub(8 per rev). This may need to be manipulated for the correct sensor count.<br />
I have just finished installing a Corsa C in my DRB.  I have recieved much help from several forum members, Mick, Renato, and Keith Stafford to name just a few. I chose the Corsa C(2000-2006), but there are several others that can be used depending how you choose your electronics. The Corsa B, Toyota Yaris abs and non abs, along with the Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007, Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007, Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006. All of these can use a false signal to fool the ECU. These can be supplied by Rally Wiz. I beleive some of our electronic gurus here on the forum are working on their own versions of the controllers. I'll leave it up to them to fill in this area as I know and understand the electornics, just not the implementation. If you want the whole story on the pin outs look here:<a href="http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas-a118.html" target="_blank">Corsa C Electric Power steering (EPAS) - blog - Seventh Heaven - Locost - Haynes Roadster</a><br />
 I chose the Corsa C, with an adjustable height column. It not only has an adjustabble height feature but a variable height for the entire column. This allows me to mount the box much higher in the cabin. It also makes it easier  to take the dash out for repairs or changes, I can drop the front of the column and the dash slides right out. It also allows for the angle of the steering wheel to be set for comfort. The central body of the unit remains fixed and I don't have to struggle with taking it out and back in. <br />
Here it is mounted with the dash in.<br />
<img src="http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/Billmusarra/P1010292_zpse066225f.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Here is the side view with the dash out. You can recognize the standard raise and lower mechanism with its lock arm(about 2&quot;of travel)<br />
<img src="http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/Billmusarra/P1010301_zpsc4a582a5.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
The front view sans dash. Still have to add some bracing to prevent torque travel.<br />
<img src="http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/Billmusarra/P1010302_zps398060bf.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Here it is with the front column droped.<br />
<img src="http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/Billmusarra/P1010300_zps30ddf71a.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
This view shows adequate foot room from the high mount of the central unit. The old straight mount rod it replaces hit the tops of my shoes. You can also make out the rear bracing and temporary bolts. It is tack welded for now and will be reinforced with the entire unit removed.<br />
I am hoping some of the others will post thier choices and how they setup their controllers.<br />
<br />
Bill<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>wbmusarra</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40446-epas-electric-power-assist-steering.html</guid>
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			<title>EFI fuel pump inertia switch</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40367-efi-fuel-pump-inertia-switch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 03:12:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm interested in knowing how many of you running EFI have an inertia switch on the high pressure fuel pump, what type you used and where you mounted...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm interested in knowing how many of you running EFI have an inertia switch on the high pressure fuel pump, what type you used and where you mounted it. Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>daryl adams</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40367-efi-fuel-pump-inertia-switch.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Heater hose re-routing</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40318-heater-hose-re-routing.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 21:26:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>At present the heater feed is taken off the thermostat near the water pump and both the feed and return hoses are taken down the central tunnel, I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->At present the heater feed is taken off the thermostat near the water pump and both the feed and return hoses are taken down the central tunnel, I want to remove these two hoses and tee-off to the heater from the rad hoses in the front bay, for both feed and return. I am getting some ally Y joints made (rather than tee joints) to keep the pressure up for the heater. Question, does anyone know what I should do with the heater hoses on the engine, see image. You can see:-<br />
 <br />
Thermostat top-middle.<br />
Heater feed 16mm hose on the left.<br />
Heater return on the right, which has a tee to the water reservoir.<br />
 <br />
Do I just loop the heater feed from the t/stat to the heater return and close off the connection (heater) on the water tank?<br />
 <br />
Thanks in advance. K<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Stavros</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40318-heater-hose-re-routing.html</guid>
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			<title>Trinary Switch Use</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40317-trinary-switch-use.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 17:01:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Have got a factory built MDA GT40 1969 Le Mans recreation. There is a trinary switch on the dashboard for the fuel pumps, I presume! What is the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Have got a factory built MDA GT40 1969 Le Mans recreation. There is a trinary switch on the dashboard for the fuel pumps, I presume! What is the correct use of this switch. There are two fuel gauges, one showing a quarter full and the other full. How do I get them to be the same level?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>sirsir</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40317-trinary-switch-use.html</guid>
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			<title>Driving lights and rear running and lic. plate light</title>
			<link>http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40254-driving-lights-rear-running-lic-plate-light.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 04:10:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have 2003 built CAV GT40 and am having a problem with the driver's side front driving light, and rear driver's side running light and plate light. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have 2003 built CAV GT40 and am having a problem with the driver's side front driving light, and rear driver's side running light and plate light.  All three are not working and I have no power on the red wire at the appropriate connector.  The passenger side lights are working properly.  I don't have a proper wiring diagram but I've checked the fuses up front and find no problem.  Any suggestions?  Are these lights on separate fuses left and right?  Any and all help/suggestions is welcome.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/"><![CDATA[GT40 Tech - Fueling, Electrics, & Engine Cooling]]></category>
			<dc:creator>tednphx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/40254-driving-lights-rear-running-lic-plate-light.html</guid>
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