Kiwi scratchbuilt

[Scott Calabro]

Russ,

Your perseverance never ceases to amaze me!

Top Shelf.

Cheers,
Scott

[Russ Noble]

I have started playing around with fitment for the dry sump pump, waterpump and alternator which will all be mounted on the front motor plate. And the belt layout, pulleys etc.

First up it's obvious the brand new waterpump is miles too long. Time to turn it into a Kiwi shorty. So, strip it out and see what scope there is for shortening. This is what we started off with, 6.137" long.

[Russ Noble]

Well, not too bad. There's scope to trim it back by 1.25" which will be just about right. The bearing can go rearwards in the housing. The seal and impeller can be pressed forwards to maintain their positions relative to the housing and the nose of the housing and the front and rear of the bearing shaft can be shortened up to suit. QED. Finished length 4.890". In actual fact, if I'd needed to, I could have trimmed it back another 1/8''.

[Russ Noble]

All ready to go together. As a little bit of added security I decided to locate the bearing with a 3mm grub screw engaging the existing groove in the bearing. The screw shows up better in the flash shadow than it does on the actual pump. I also took the opportunity on reassembly to close up the impeller to housing clearance. I have never liked the big gaps found in most factory waterpumps. Final overall length of the pump to the front of the shaft 4.9". This means I won't need to put a power bulge in the firewall to enable clearance for the pump or for belt replacement. Sweet!

Not bad considering the extra length that Porsche have in the 930 from the driveshafts forwards and the extra 10mm that the motor plate spaces the pump forwards.

[Nicholas Gomez]

Keep it up! Excellent effort.

[Richard Martin-Beck]

G'day Russ,
Thanks for the help in contacting Jonathon - I've now sent eight emails to him, all returned undelivered.
Thanks also for the original attention to Jonathon in the first place.
I've read your build notes above and looked at the photos. Great work. Good luck with the rest, I'll now follow your postings and take delight in your progress.
Richard Martin-Beck

[Russ Noble]

Not a lot to show the last few weeks, I've been tied up with work a bit more than usual. All the major mechanicals are in bits as I recondition, blueprint, modify, and assemble/reassemble. I have been playing around with the transaxle in recent weeks. Details are on this thread in the transaxle section.

Adjusting 930 LSD power/overrun split.

Trans is on the way back together shortly, once we've built the setup tools.

[Russ Noble]

This is just a query for fellow Kiwis out there.

Where in Godzone can I get some hardened steel washers that the i/d is a good snug fit on the bolts/studs? All the ones I have been able to find are a shocking loose fit and tend to sit eccentric and look crap when fitted!

[Jac Mac]

On the chassis or in the motor Russ??
Most hardware shop stuff in general is what would I call metri/inch or one size fits all.
The 'Nordlock' stuff is good on chassis/trans etc where torque values are not high.

[Maurice Butler]

cheat and put an O ring in the centre to help keep it centred

[Russ Noble]

Thanks Maurice, I'm not sure that I'm into cheating, LOL, but that's a good idea I'll keep in mind.

Jac Mac, just closing up the trans now, but there will be other applications too. I hadn't thought of the Nordlocks as I was just thinking plain washers. But I think I'll run with the Nordlocks, they worked well on the TR7's Rover rocker covers, and they're easy to get.

[Jimmy M]

Hi Russ,

MS spec aircraft washers for hard ones or AN series for normal steel and alloy and they come in 0.063, 0.032 and 0.016 thickness. All are closer tolerance than over the counter commercial stuff.

PM me if you need to discuss.

Jimmy M

[Russ Noble]

Thanks James,

That's what I'm looking for. PM sent.