German MDA

Reinhard H. · 12-14-05, 09:11 AM

<u>My MDA has a new home!!!</u>

Our new workshop is now finished after some problems and delays in the building permit. Some remainder-work stands still out however we hope to have settled everything until next week. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banana.gif[/img]

Here is the specification of my MDA:

Suspension: Complete suspension. Independent wishbones front and rear. Fully adjustable, Rose jointed upper and Poly bushes lower. Protech ally Coil over shock absorbers, fully adjustable. AVO springs in Black Road race set.

Hubs: Knock on pin drive wheel hubs with fabricated hub carriers, bearings, drive spindles, Spinners, lock pins.

Drivetrain: Gearbox 5 speed Renault UN1 transaxle 3;44 final drive. Billet steel flywheel & AP Racing clutch.

Drivetrain upgrades: Gearbox Limited Slip differential. Lower fifth gear supplement.

Engine: Ford 302 block, 289 HiPo heads, Steel crank, Compression 11:1, Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake, Moroso Front sump oil pan, Barry Grant Speed Demon carb, Ford oval air cleaner, MSD distributor, MSD 6AL ignition box

Interior & upholstery: Black leather seats, black carpet set with leather. Seat runners, race harnesses, centre gear-change. Door pockets and handles.

Exhaust system: Stainless steel full crossover system with collectors, headers and two silencers.
Heat shields in stainless steel.

Windows: Windscreen and rear window tinted blue.

Gear change: Centre mounted gearshift with cable change.

Wheels & tires: ImageWheels, BRM style, Front 8x15, Rear 10x15

Braking system: MDA bias pedal box assembly complete.
No calipers and rotors yet.

Additional options: Removable steering wheel. Dual and single vented nostril. Air conditioning.

Our plans are to finish everything till June (Le Mans Classic). The body is now in the paint shop for some baking – to out-sweat the moldwax. After that we start with the dirty work.

Everybody interested is invited to visit us. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif[/img]

With best regards,
Reinhard

GT40 in the “Dust cabinet”.

Chris Martino · 12-14-05, 12:23 PM

Reinhard,

Congatulations - the workshop looks excellent as does the description of your cars specs.

Enjoy your build!

Chris

Reinhard H. · 12-14-05, 01:52 PM

Thanks Chris,

the "dust cabinet" is an exhibition stand we do not need any longer and the floor remained from one of our fairs. Very easy to keep clean and we hope the dust will stay inside.

Regards,
Reinhard

Brett James-McCall · 12-15-05, 08:39 AM

Reinhard,
Do you have a webite for the build? ALso, where are you in Germany?

Brett

Reinhard H. · 12-15-05, 09:12 AM

Hello Brett,

No, I do not have a website. I will post the process on the builders forum and on the MDA forum.
I am located in South Germany near Augsburg.

Reinhard

I LOVE GT40- Paolo · 12-17-05, 05:35 AM

well done Rehinard.
I love to see nearer italy builder of 40s....means my illness is not only mine

Hope one day to can come near u to see the car [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

Paul-Italy

Reinhard H. · 12-17-05, 11:17 AM

Hello Paul,

we are every year one or two times at the Lago di Garda. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banana.gif[/img]
Milano is not to far from there, maybe we can meet us next year at the lake or in Milano.

Reinhard

Reinhard H. · 12-17-05, 11:37 AM

Today I got the body back from the paint shop. The parts have been baked for one hour at 60° to out-sweat the rest of the moldwax.
Although we had washed the body and degreased it with a special wax remover there was still a lot of wax left in the gel coat. After the baking you could see many small white drops of wax on the surface of the body.
To remove the wax we first used a Scotch ultra fine pad with “Standox Plastic-Cleaner antistatic”.
After that we cleaned the body again but used the “two towel method” - in one hand a towel with “Standox Plastic-Cleaner antistatic” and a dry one to wipe off the solvent in the other hand.
This should eliminate any problems with the wax.

Regards
Reinhard

Allan T Knight · 12-17-05, 06:15 PM

Reinhard,a product that I have found excellent for removing that Wax Residue is Standox Silicone Remove,when used in a two cloth application this product is absolutley fantastic the product number is 27/86786
Regards
Allan Knight [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif[/img]

Russ Noble · 12-18-05, 04:23 AM

Allan,

Good mold release waxes I am led to believe contain no silicone, does this stuff still work for them?

Regards

Reinhard H. · 12-18-05, 05:42 AM

Hello Allan,

I have used the Standox Silicone Remove only on steel panels and primer/paint yet. A very good product but a bit pricy – as usual with Standox. The Plastic Cleaner Antistatic was suggested by Standox as especially for fibreglass to me.
I think the two cloth application is the only way one should use these products.

@Russ
This product removes nearly everything - not only silicone. It is also used as a degreaser.

Reinhard

Allan T Knight · 12-18-05, 11:47 PM

Russ the Standox Silicone Remover will remove virtually any wax or silicone release agent i have ever come across.It is the only product i use as a final cleaner ,and yes reinhard i agree that it is expensive but when used correctly it is very cost effective.
Al [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twocents.gif[/img]

Reinhard H. · 12-22-05, 04:34 AM

Must be Christmas!

Another package arrived from Summit Racing with some goodies for my engine.

MSD ignition parts, Ford oval air cleaner and a Moroso T-sump oil pan.
Its funny I am getting always nervous when I see the UPS truck.

Reinhard

Reinhard H. · 12-22-05, 04:35 AM

Ford Oval air cleaner and oil pan

Reinhard H. · 01-03-06, 01:48 PM

Hello,

I started grinding the seams yesterday. Things went really fast with the “Rotex” grinder and 60/80 grit papers. Found some Air pockets and removed most of the high spots – the front and rear body clips came out very smooth. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif[/img]
The only thing I was astonished was the gel coat in the seams of the front clip. You can see a big stripe of gel coat in the seam and the gel coat also extends between the layers of glass about 2 inches into one of the panels. Some gel coat in the seams is not uncommon but I have never seen it extending under the glass. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif[/img]
Has anybody had the same problem before? Any ideas are highly appreciated.

Reinhard

Reinhard H. · 01-03-06, 01:50 PM

Another view. The white between the black glass is the gel coat

Reinhard H. · 01-03-06, 01:52 PM

The gel coat stripe goes from one side to the other along the nose. The rest of the seams are OK.

Reinhard H. · 01-03-06, 01:56 PM

At the rear clip I have the same problem.
The gel coat stripe goes from the left rear wheel well over the spoiler lip to the right rear wheel well. The rest of the panel is OK.

Allan T Knight · 01-04-06, 01:08 AM

I've had the same thing on some Cobra bodies Reinhard,and its no real problem provided that the gelcoat is prepared properly,remembering that the gelcoat is harder and not as porus as the fibreglass.I would suggest sanding the gelcoat with 60g before applying your filler and allowing the filler to thoroughly before sanding so as not to peel the edge back which could lead to adhesion problems down the track.
Regards Allan [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif[/img]

Reinhard H. · 01-04-06, 02:40 AM

Hello Allan,

I have seen this also on some Cobra bodies (Factory Five) but they had the gel coat only in the seam and not between the layers of glass.
We usually take a grinding stone to remove the gel coat and fill the void with short strand fiberglass filler. I am a bit afraid because of the amount of Gel coat. Gelcoat can not be used for anything structural, it tends to crack.

Maybe I will grind it a bit more and glass a thin mat over the seam.

Regards
Reinhard