RCR #010 Build Progress

[Bill Hara]

Hey Bill

Did you apply the tape straight onto the lexan or did you paint a black edge onto the lexan before applying the tape?

Bill

[Bill D]

Randy-
I had to go back and think "why" I decided to install the seal on the windows and not the body. Here's why - the recess for the windows and light covers varies in width from less than 1/2" wide to more than 1/2" wide throughout the car. Trying to place the 1/2" wide seal would cause it to hang over in many places. If you trimmed it, then it would be noticable, especially on light colored cars. Placing it on the windows gives it a very uniform appearance.

Bill H-
It's placed straight on the Lexan. It stretches, so you have to be careful not to pull it as your putting it on. Once it's on, I went back over it with thumb pressure to make sure it was completely attached. You can see where it isn't and then just place a little pressure and it's good to go.

Hope this helps
Bill D

[Bill D]

Randy et al
Here is the McMaster-Carr P/N for the 1/2" wide x 1/16" thick adhesive backed foam rubber seal (8694K11). It comes in 50 ft rolls and sells for under $5.00.

Hope this helps
Bill

[Mark Pickford]

Hi Bill,

Your build thread has been one of the most enlightening and inspirational threads on the forums. I for one appreciate the time you have taken not only in the build, but in taking the time to keep us all constantly updated as to your progress in both words and pictures.

My hat's off to you sir. I couldn't have done it, that's for sure. Clearly you are going to have one of the very nicest GT40 reps in the world. Congratulations and thanks for sharing with us.

Mark

[Big-Foot]

Thanks again for the McMaster numbers ....
Your explanation as to why you applied the foam directly to the Lexan makes perfect sense and will be the same way I do it... Maybe in a couple of years at the rate I'm going... ((sigh))

[Big-Foot]

Originally Posted by Bill D

I am going to replicate the raised beads on the fuel sponsons like the originals. Research has shown that the original raised beads were 1.060 x .250. I located some 1.000 x .250 half ovals in mild steel. I cut them to length and tonight, I shaped one to closely match the original. It still needs a little "massaging". Tell me what you think?

Original...


And mine...





Bill D

Bill - Since these were "Ovals" that implies that the bottoms were curved - not flat.. Did you file the bottoms flat or saw or ??

I'm getting close to this stage...

Thanks!

[Pantera1889]

Randy,
I used the same material that Bill did. It is already flat on the botom.

[Bill D]

They're "half" ovals. The top are oval shape but the bottoms are flat. I just cut them to length and then rounded the ends over to give them the appearance of beads.

[Big-Foot]

I spoke with the supplier (Tell Steel) in Long Beach, CA. They have half ovals in the size of the original beads (1.000 x .250). I ordered 3 6 footers today ($31 + shipping/tax) which shouild be plenty.

Originally Posted by Bill D

They're "half" ovals. The top are oval shape but the bottoms are flat. I just cut them to length and then rounded the ends over to give them the appearance of beads.

I'll check them out.. Thanks guys..

[Bill D]

The fuel access panels are from ATL and are P/N TF109. I am going to tap mine for 1/4-20 screws from McMaster-Carr (P/N 92220A181). The excess threads will be cut off with a Dremel. They're low profile black oxide finish

[Bruce B]

OK, I'm getting impatient. Yeah, I've been to your website. Licensed ? On the road ? Videos of you tearing down one of those "wide open" California freeways ?

[Bill D]

Bruce-
I'm still plugging away with finishing the "details". I'm doing stuff you don't see and doesn't warrant posting - i.e. engine wiring, cooling system plumbing, installing Dzus fasteners on the front clip, fuel filler tubes, remote oil filter setup, etc.

My goal is to get the car running by June 27th. I think I can make that date.

[Bill Hara]

Keep plugging away Bill, the last "3" months of my build took 12 months. Ultimately it doesn't matter how long it takes because everytime you walk out and look at your car, you know it is YOURS! You will be driving and enjoying it for a long time hopefully.

Cheers

Bill

[Bruce B]

That's what I figured Bill. And I second the "keep plugging away". Watching your build site is what prompted me to join GT40s, attend Carlisle in 2006 (missed the last 2 years ) and catch the fever. It's gorgeous as it sits now and I know you and your son are chomping at the bit.

[Ian Anderson]

Bill

Question on your expanded foam / rubber on yout light covers and windows

How did you get the scrw holes in the material?
Was it before or after you fitted it?
Drill or punch?

Cheers
Ian

[Bill D]

Ian-
I used an Xacto blade and made a + in the material through the hole. The screw then passes through the material easily without tearing it up.

Now that I've exorcised the wiring gremlins, I can move on to finishing the car. Tonight I installed my Canton remote oil filter mount and attached my oil lines...


And dry fit my drive axles from Taylor Race Engineering. The CV joints are Porsche 930 Turbo units

[Big-Foot]

Looking good Bill..

I'm curious about your speed sensor on the LR rotor. Do you have holes in the rotors for the hall effect sensor to trigger on?

[Chuck]

Randy: the bolts securing the brake rotor will trigger the sensor. No need to drill holes.

Chuck

[Big-Foot]

Originally Posted by CESLAW