RCR #010 Build Progress

[Bill D]

Sandy-
I have an extra set of the orange lights. I'll let you have them at a great discount.

[Bill D]

Installed my Tilton master cylinders with the remote reservoir caps, breaking one O-ring in the process ($1.29). But here is how they will look once installed.

I'm waiting for the seats to arrive so I can position them permanently.


As you can see, it's pretty tight in there.

The reservoirs will be mounted outside the cab on the front bulkhead.

-Bill

[Bill Musarra]

Bill,
You are fortunate to have the "old" style Tiltons. I ordered the same set and when they arrived, was disapointed in that they were finished in black. Acording to Tilton the gold finish is discontinued. I sent them back and ordered the Aluminum two pedal setup only to find out through Sumit anyway, that the complete two pedal setup with the MCs included has been discontinued as well. So I will have to order them in seperate parts. Really liked the complete setup as you saved a few bucks that way.
Bill

[Rob]

Bill(s)
I ran into the same issue. Originally wanted the cast alum 3 pedal assembly, as I liked the look...discontinued. Then, 2nd choice wanted the 3 pedal assembly Bill D has and found it too was discontinued. Finally did find it.... last one in stock at Lane Automotive. Was told the same, that black was the option now.
Can't say I understand why Tilton is bringing their items to market this way. We can't be the only guys wanting the 3 pedal box.......

[Sandy]

Bill,

I have a bunch of Tilton stuff like that, if you need to O-Ring or and resivior related parts I have a bunch left over from other cars. Your for the asking. Also, don't know if you have seen the 'Short' Tilton Master Cylinders, 75 Series, and the 76 Series which replaces the plastic and o-ring with a screw in fitting that allows -4 AN to be plumbed directly to the master. I just had to get a set of shorty 75's for the Cobra and definitly a place to save some room vs. the older long style.

As for the triple (Steel) pedal assembly being discontinued, that sounds iffy, I think it is a relativly new part, or maybe the part number is new because it's black or something. Worth a quick call to tilton, always been helpful. For old Tilton stuff 'CV Products' has stock on some old replacement parts when Tilton sometimes has non on their shelves.

I too liked the older cast aluminum pedals, but what can you do.

The AP Racing set is nice, but no one has them, and then your stuck with AP Masters I think, and they are 2x+ price the Tiltons. Not too much else out except the ones from Trident

(http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/racin...s/pedalbox.htm)

But they might not fit and are very expensive.

Sandy

[Bill D]

Thanks Sandy. I could use the O-ring that goes on the MC.

Bill D

[Sandy]

Bill -

I'll peel one off and stuff it into the envelope tonight.

Thanks

Sandy

[Bill D]

I spent the day laying out where the fuel pumps and fuel filters will be on the added aluminum panels in the engine compartment. I had to sit where the engine goes with the rear clip closed to position them so they won't hit the rear clip when its closed.







I'll do the other side this week

Bill D

[Pantera1889]

Very nice Bill!

[diecast18]

Great job Bill. Keep those photos coming.

[Jim S.]

Bill,

Great job! This is very exciting for me to watch an RCR being built. I've decided to go with a RCR gt40. I've talked with Fran and got nothing, but great responses to all my questions. I love all of the 6061 T6 suspension components. I'm a CNC programer and machinist so this stuff is really great to me. I'm still about a year away from ordering the deluxe kit.
Keep the pics coming, I'll be drooling and dreaming. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[Bill D]

It's been awhile, but I've been busy with the kids, the car, etc.

I installed the fuel level sender and fabricated fuel pickup units made from 2 extra sending units. I kept just the top plate, drilled out the center, and will now mount it next to the sending unit. 3/8" aluminum fuel line was used as the pickup tube.

All laid out...


Holes drilled...


Sending unit installed...


The fuel pickup unit ready to go in...


And installed, but not yet permanently...


Bill D

[Bill Musarra]

On your fuel level unit and sender, who(or where) did you get them from. I have been looking at several and one alows the depth or lenght if you will, to be shortened. Could you elaborate and post any more pics? Finding one that would be accurate and match up to the fuel guage(SW) is a little tricky. (ohms that is).
Bill

[Neal]

Nice work Bill D. Keep at it...

Bill, Autometer makes a unit that is height adjustable.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...42&rsview=prod

Be sure the resistance range matches your gauge requirements.

[Simon]

Bill D. fantastic looking car and great job but when do we get to see them wheels and tires mounted on your car?

Bill, I used two of these http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/s...00838%3Bc343387

Simon

[Ron Earp]

I thought about using something similar to this, but the tube type mounting on aircraft:

http://www.pressureproducts.com/sg-oblong.htm

Simple, failsafe, and no gauges or senders.

[Bill D]

The P/N of the fuel level sender is SN35 and is manufactured by Classic Instruments. They have several types with varying resistance ranges. The SN35 is matched to the fuel level gauge. I bought two additional units and used just the tops, gasket, and mounting screws. They're inexpensive - $33 ea. I will keep the guts as spares.

The fuel level senders are adjustable for tanks with depths from 6 inches to 24 inches.

Bill D

[Mike Dozier]

Mine are VDO...believe I paid around $ 30 from Summit.

MikeD

[Keith Baker]

Hi Bill, watching your build with interest,where exactly does your car come from and have you got there web site details. The ally mono. looks a million dollars.
I Noticed the rear lower suspension mounting is what's called single shear sometimes called an overhung mounting, this is usually a weak point and most use double shear mountings. I would be interested to know why they use this method. The build looks great Bill keep the posts coming
Regards

[Sandy]

Check out

http://www.centroidproducts.com/

Use them in ATL and Fuelsafe cells, about 45 bucks, supports any gauge brand (you must specify ohm range for your gauge) and can order in any length or you cut to final length. They are non-mechanical and adjustable for full and empty settings.

BillD, also might be a good idea to locktite (or other fuel resistant) your pickup fittings. All the inner fittings on the ATL Cell that I just replaced the sender had them done. That is if you have not done it already [img]/ubbthreads/images/grae