RCR #010 Build Progress - Page 13

Bill D · 12-16-06, 10:06 PM

My son Anthony (16) and I decided that the rear of the car just didn't look...complete!! The black steel frame needed something. So he came up with the idea of adding aluminum sheet to the frame and make it continue the smooth look of the chassis.

We fabricated the "belly pan" from some .080 6061 T-6 aluminum sheet. It's attached to the frame structure with some sheetmetal screws. I thought about rivets, but if I have to remove it, rivets would be a pain.

Here is what it looked like before...

Here is Anthony installing it...

And complete...

Not only does it make the rear of the car better looking, but it should improve air flow as it exits from underneath the car.

Bill D

Dalton · 12-17-06, 07:15 AM

Looking great. If I recall correctly, don't the originals have some sheetmetal on the bottom rear frame that the rear clip pivots on? I like your approach, of making it look RIGHT.

While you're improving things, why don't you change your mind and add some useful cupholders?? Just kidding.

Dalton

Dalton

Peter Jankovskis · 12-17-06, 11:45 AM

Nice work Bill.

I believe a belly pan is now available for the RCR 40 from Fran as well.

Bill D · 12-18-06, 11:47 PM

Some of the original GT40's had a redline painted on the tach face like below...

So I sent my Classic Instruments tach back to them with the above picture and asked them to change the face like the original...

And installed into the dash...

JackW · 12-19-06, 01:33 AM

Bill your attention to detail is marvellous. Tremendous work - highly enjoyable to read.

cheers

Jack

Bill D · 12-19-06, 09:23 PM

I am going to replicate the raised beads on the fuel sponsons like the originals. Research has shown that the original raised beads were 1.060 x .250. I located some 1.000 x .250 half ovals in mild steel. I cut them to length and tonight, I shaped one to closely match the original. It still needs a little "massaging". Tell me what you think?

Original...

And mine...

Bill D

Scott McDill · 12-20-06, 12:06 AM

Wow bill
After it is attached with the JB, sanded, primed, and painted I don't think anyone would be able to tell its not a bead roll. Looks great!!!

Dutton · 12-20-06, 01:15 AM

Scott's right, Bill - very well done. The quality of the work by both you and Anthony is top shelf. You guys are an inspiration to the rest of us... mortals.

Anticipating the next chapter,

T.

Chris_K · 12-20-06, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill D

Tell me what you think?

I haven't calibrated my eyes lately, but it looks like your version is about .060" off of the original. Nice try though...

Seriously, looks great Bill. I keep seeing everyone else's buildwork and hope mine will be able to measure up. Can't wait to find out though!

Keep up the fantastic work!

TimB · 12-20-06, 10:59 AM

Bill,

Just a thought but you might want to consider adding an insulator between the aluminum and the mild steel. If you get any moisture in between the two the aluminum is going to become the sacrificial anode

Bill D · 12-20-06, 11:21 AM

Tim-
It's unlikely moisture will get in between the metals since they will be epoxied, primered and painted. But thanks for the heads up!

Cheers
Bill D

Bill D · 12-23-06, 12:42 AM

To keep the elements out, I installed some 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick foam rubber insulation from McMaster-Carr. The insulation is adhesive backed on one side. First I cleaned the window with some plexiglass cleaner made by Novus. The I peeled the backing off and slowly applied the insulation to the edge of the plexiglass. I used a plastic roller to make sure the insulation was firmly atatched (no air bubbles).

After attaching the insulation I used a 1/8" drill bit to open up the mounting holes so the 8-32 screws would pass through.

ON TO THE SIDE WINDOWS!!!

Bill D

Pantera1889 · 12-23-06, 09:26 AM

BIll,
Is that just the foam or dod you aint the border also?

RussellBjerklie · 12-23-06, 08:14 PM

Quesstion out of pure curiousity, is there a specific reason you mounted your tach with the redline straight up?
Great Build thread, and thank you for all the info.

Bill D · 12-23-06, 10:53 PM

Ron-
That is the foam.

Russell-
I mounted the tach in that position to replicate the way many of the originals did.

Dan S. · 12-24-06, 02:43 AM

Hi Bill,
Not sure if I should ask this here but I am interested in your thoghts about building your Factory 5 cobra vs your current build of the RCR GT40. I am trying to decide if I should build the cobra now or keep saving money for the RCR GT40. since you have done both.....thought you might have an opinion. Thanks

chuck smith · 12-24-06, 10:04 AM

I believe the tacs were mounted that direction because it is more intuitive to see the important rev range at a glance that way

David Morton · 12-24-06, 10:58 AM

Sort of an 'aeroplane' thing from piston fighter WWII aeroplanes when the pilot didn't have much time to look inside and most of them used to turn their instruments so that every indicating needle was parallel. As soon as one stepped out of line it was a quick 'attention getter'. Sort of migrated into some race cars.

Ron Earp · 12-27-06, 11:49 AM

Keep on keeping on!!!!

Bill, did you make these? I need to do something similar as well. Looks like some standard parts there, but that isn't an AN fitting out the top is it? On second thought it looks like it is. I have AN-10 inputs into my pump so if I got some AN-10 elbows with bulkhead pass through then to some compression fittings on a 3/8" or 1/2" tube it looks like that would be it, correct?

R