Rob's RCR40 Build

[Rob]

OK guys... just a few quick pics. I know I've been saying I was going to do this for a while... but spending as much time as possible working on the car.

Chassis is on it's feet and now set aside while I do the body work. Induction system from Weber Carbs Direct has been returned and Red Line system in place. ZF inversion done, Custom drive axles installed, still need to work out water neck situation and coolant tanks.

Body cut outs are all done accept frt marker lights and driving lights, as I am still deciding which config I will be utilizing. Head lights are hung, seems sanded with first coat of filler down.

Rob

[Dalton]

Rob, it's looking great. What are you putting in the top of the tail? Looks like cutouts for turn indicators or similar.
Cheers,
Dalton

[Dave S]

Nice work Ron.
Those RCR's look so nice with that Alloy tub.
Your work area looks huge aswell.
What colour are you going to paint your panels?

[Rob]

Hi guys.. thanks.
Dalton,
The cut outs are for under body air pressure vents. I simply mimiced the cut outs from some vintage pics. The also make great handles for carrying the body around, and I imagine will come in handy for pushing it around too.... ;-)

Dave,
Yea....the ali tubs are pretty damn sweet aren't they...
Yep.... a bit spoiled with the work area... actually it can stand to be about 300 sq ft more.. City got involved and wouldn't let me go any bigger.
I am planning on Gulf #7

(just noticed seems I made a typo on sanding seams...so sorry ;-)

Rob

[Bill D]

WOW!! Great progress. I seem to be going awfully slow.

What color are you going with?

Cheers
Bill D

[Rob]

Heck...Bill....I'm bustin my ass just trying to keep up with you. Which I was meaning to talk to you about. This farming out the body/paint bit..... this is terribly unfair. You realize this don't you!!!

Planning of Gulf #7.

Rob

[Bill D]

I can't paint. I would get better results if I used a brush and roller.

I love the way you added the rear cutouts. Are you going with a fabricated spoiler like mine?

And can you explain the headlamp mounts? I need to do mine this weekend.

Cheers
Bill D

[Kalun D]

Nice project, nice progress.

One small "possible" issue, want to point out.

the Dzus clips that hold the spare/nostril cover on the front clip. You might want to put the retaining wire on the other side of the glass, or put extra secure fasteners with large backup washers behind the glass to hold them.

What happens is when/if the front clip pressurizes it lifts the spare/nostril cover. This is more of an issue with nostrils that don't go all the way to the radiator and fully seal, with a lot of air coming in the front and not all of it going out the nostrils, the pressure will increase so much that spare/nostril covers have been blown off at speed. More likely when the fasterners aren't adequate for the pressure.

Putting the wire on the backside of the glass means it would have to pull through the glass as opposed to just pulling the rivets/screws out. Of course it will change the depth of the Dzus so bullet fasterners with large backup washers may be the way to go.

Of course we can't see the back side to see if you've got a large washer there also, combined with some AN screws/bolts you could already be good to go, you just can't tell from the pics.

This was covered some years back but just wanted to bring it up again in a recent thread so the newer builders could take note.

[Rob]

Hi Kalun,
Good catch. I agree 100%. I was really hoping to put the whole assembly (wire and mounting bracket) on the underside for the aforementioned reasons. However, I could not come up with a Dzus assembly that had that much reach to go throught the combined material thickness'. So, I came to the conclusion that since the nostril is the "late" style (full opening - therefore significant down force on the nostril) and that the RCR nose structure is extremely well ventilated that I could safely deviate from this design concept. So, the plan is to mount on the surface, use steel fasteners with large washers to carry the load.

In the pic they actually aren't assembled yet, as it will happen post paint. They are just sitting in place.

Thanks for the input. Always appreciated.
Rob

[Bill D]

Rob-
My nostril Dzus springs are the same way. I'm using machine screws and nuts to hold the springs in place.

Are you going to add the two Dzus fasteners on either side of the large NACA duct?

Bill D

[Rob]

Ehh Bill,
1) Yes, thinking I'd like to do the spoiler too. Do you have a template that you are willing to share.....:-)
2) I will be updating the tech support site with the head light assy in the coming days. Sorry, but don't think there is any way I can have it done by this weekend.
3) Yes, planning on the additional Dzus'. Just not yet done.

[Rob]

Got back on some more body work today..... had help........so it took twice as long as it should have. The pic is my daughter filling a tiny little pock hole in the gel coat....check out the volume of filler.....

Driving light mount are now also done.

I really can't help but appreciate the lines of the car while I'm working on it. The air inlets to the engine cover are just sexy as hell.....

Fortunately the RCR body needs very little work. For anyone who is building an RCR but hasn't build any other kits, you may not realize how good we have it. (No.. Fran is not paying me to say this....) I am just really appreciating the fit of the moulds very much while working the body. For those that don't know/remember from previous comments, I have build two Factory Five cars and the panel quality and mould alignment is not in the same universe. I used a gallon of filler on each of those cars. I cracked open a new gallon at the start of this project and it doesn't look like I will use 20% of it, including the work for blocking off the roll bar clearance notches.

Hopefully I will start some primer work next weekend, providing I don't get too much "help". It really slows me down, but no way in hell I'm gonna complain.

[Rob]

"Two steps back for 4 inches out"

I decided to widen the rear track of the car, so contacted Fran and got one of his plus 2 kits. This adds two inches per side of track width. In doing so I then also had to widen the body. Can't really put any logic to it....just got a wild hair up my ars I guess. So....feels like I've backed up a few months, but should look pretty cool. I was one itchy mother by the end of the weekend..that's for sure.......

[Rob]

Measure 57 times cut once

Right about here.... I must admit I had a sick feeling in my gut.... "boy I hope I cut on the right line"

They are both glassed on now (bottom pic), I will start the body filler work this weekend.

[Rob]

Also have the AC pretty much dialed in. Still considering a few fine tunes for aesthetics....but here's where I currently stand.

[Bill D]

Looking good!! That looks like a Vintage Air Mini Gen II. Is it? What AC compressor did you go with?

I just noticed you asked about a spoiler template. I'm sorry to say I don't have one.

Bill D

[John]

Wow.. looks like you guys have to do a lot of finishing/modding/filling to the body. I guess it looks about the same in compairison to my freinds factory5.
Im really not looking forward to all that bodywork if i get one of these cars, I have done so much fiberglass work in the past and after that... you just dont want to do so much anymore.

But, what resin systems and fillers are you guys using?

Rob, is that the underside of the flare/fender on post number 14? ("measure 57 times cut once")


it also looks like all the fiberglass is chopped strand; would you say the bodywork is heavy?

[Rob]

Hey John,
Keep in mind, this was my own doing. I am quite impressed how little bodywork has been needed on the body. (see previous posts, I've built 2 FFRs, they simply do not compare).
Yes, it is the underside view. It was a but joint, not overlay, so I did not use any bonding system. Good old fashion glass overlay. The body is matt or chop, not cloth. For more details I'd suggest calling Fran, as I simply don't know the details of the body construction. It is however quite thick.


Hey Bill,
Please contact Fran for the details. Don't know the number on this one, but I know the 508 as I have used it before. It is significantly bigger and less flexible in mounting position. ie port orientation.