Roaring Forties #80 Reborn!!!! - Page 3

Bill Musarra · 10-17-07, 10:06 PM

I at one time was considering the Electromotive system. My engine guy said the system was very hard to setup in that the programing was very involved and was easy to screw up in that if you missed one step in the sequence, you could not backup, you had to start all over again. He has recommended the F A S T system. He has used it on countless Mustangs that are turbo driven and has very good success with it. Many many dyno runs on the chassis dyno, show smooth operation. It is easy to setup and run, according to him. Easily tuned with a laptop. He is a notable racer setting many records with his own 1200 H P engined Mustang.
They make two different setups. One for the distributor types and one distributorless like I plan to use. Price seems to be reasonable in that the complete setup for the distributor types in about $2K. The distributorless is a little more. I have my motor far enough moved ahead that even the low profile distributors won't fit. So It will cost a little more for the unit, but I will gain what I originally wanted.
The engine was finished just yesterday, and the exhaust work should be done in a week. At that time we will fire up the motor and see what is what. I will give a run down as soon as I have some information. I value simplicity. I plan to track the car some. I think there are different programs that can be set up and stored on the computer, so you can have your track settings different from the street settings. Will check it out more in the next couple of days to see if that is so. I am pretty new to this setup and am still learning.
Anyone else worked with this system?

Bill

Ross Nicol · 10-18-07, 12:46 AM

Hi Greg
Fantastic I was thinking of using a tap but couldn't decide on a suitable type.I have -6 line so can plumb in just like yours.Can you tell me where I can get one of those ball valves please.I'll bet there are others with similar problems re the trimming of low load fuel maps.I'm not going to spend too much time on it with my old motor but will spend time when the real good motor goes in.

Ross

Greg Marriott · 10-18-07, 07:15 AM

Ross,

The ball valve I used is one I just happened to have lying around in my workshop, I used it to control coolant flow to my first lathe which did not have a suds pump. I think I bought it from my local hose supply shop several years ago and then bought the -6 Speedflow adapters to suit when I fitted it to the 40.

Speedflow do one that looks similar complete with adapters, it is part no. 650-6 on page 16 of the 1999 catalogue that I have.

Ross Nicol · 10-18-07, 10:28 AM

Thanks mate I'm onto it. I thought of PMing you as we have partially taken over this thread but then this info is good for all to see, that double edge sword again.
Ross

Russ Noble · 10-18-07, 02:28 PM

Ross and Gregg,

Why not run a smaller bypass so the thermostat can work as intended?

Cheers,

Jac Mac · 10-18-07, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ Noble

Ross and Gregg,

Why not run a smaller bypass so the thermostat can work as intended?

Cheers,

Because all these poverty stricken weber/fuel injection people are so hard up that the thought of incorporating a thermostat & bypass in their system to ensure that their precious $$$$$ engines reach operating temperature quickly and therefore save them future $$$$ in fuel and premature engine wear is beyond their comprehension. They would much rather continue on this path and drive us all nuts trying to work out why the plugs have fouled up, rocker covers are full of condensation, and blame the jetting,igniton system,ECU etc rather than pony up $100.00 for a decent thermostat and by-pass.

Jac Mac

Keith Hardy · 10-18-07, 04:09 PM

C'mon Jac, quit sitting on the fence about this issue.....

Ross Nicol · 10-18-07, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ Noble

Ross and Gregg,

Why not run a smaller bypass so the thermostat can work as intended?

Cheers,

I do have a restrictor in my bypass Russ but it doesn't have a small enough hole hence why I like the tap idea.I have also changed the restrictor a couple of times and each time I have to chop my lovely blue -6 hose.It's a PIA bleeding the air out of the cooling system too so dismantling the bypass hose to alter the restrictor size will be a thing of the past with the tap. Jac Mac have you not taken your pills today? I assume being a fellow countryman and Southlander to boot, that your not directing your cynicism at me.Love your direct style though.

Ross

bryn jones · 10-19-07, 07:48 AM

Hi Oliver,
Have you a part number for your engine mounts and what they are off.

regards Bryn

Greg Marriott · 10-19-07, 05:37 PM

I do run an 85 deg C thermostat. The problem arises because the pick up from the rear of the inlet manifold comes into the thermostat housing after the thermostat, therefore when the thermostat is closed the coolant takes the path of least resistance down the -6 hose and consequently the coolant never gets hot enough to activate the thermostat in normal road driving.

On the track when the engine is working hard and operating temps are a lot higher the problem probably would not occur.

The ball valve in the line seemed to me to be the simplest fix and a way to accomodate all conditions.

Jac Mac · 10-19-07, 08:07 PM

I would suggest reducing the size of the fittings for the bleeds out of the rear of the heads to around -3 or 3mm per side. These are meant to be 'steam ' vents only and by using the -6 fittings your T/stat will never function as intended . You will also be creating a condition where the front half of each cyl head may run hotter than desired due to lack of coolant flow in that area. Your By-Pass must be configured in a manner that coolant is brought close to the thermostat bulb while in the by-pass mode to enable 'real temp' signal to the T/stat rather than an isolated pocket of coolant that creats unnecessary 'on/off' cycling of the t/stat.

Jac Mac

mark · 10-19-07, 08:14 PM

peter, the car's looking good. what color are you planning on painting it?

i highly recommend this book to anyone with a user programmable ECU, especially when they need to tweak theirs...
Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop): Books: Jeff Hartman

Nikolas K.K. · 01-14-08, 10:56 PM

Hi Peter

Glad to see that now you can have the pleasure driving your GT40. I have seen you pictures MAN the car looks fantastic.

In regards to your RF90 I still working hoping to have the car ready for spring,

Peter can you please post what kind of oil I need for the transmission and if requires deferent oil for the deferential

Your help we be gristly appreciated