Tornado TS40 #875

[Scott Calabro]

Hello Everyone,

I'd like to start this thread by letting everyone know how the Tornado USA demo car will be spec'd.

It will be RHD/RHS.
It will have a Gray carpets with black edge's and black interior trim.
The dash will be painted wrinkle flat black.

It will be a Deluxe Component Package car with the following options:

1). 1.75" Exhaust headers
2). Foam filled fuel tanks
3). Wilwood brakes (with integral p brake)
4). Engine oil cooler
5). Dual fuel pumps and filters
6). Single vent front hatch
7). Chrome plated wishbones and suspension links
8). Helicopter vents
9). Front and rear anti roll bars
10). US DOT APPROVED 15" Silver BRM knock off wheels

It probably will be painted either Tuxedo Black with VW reflex silver pearl stripes, or that new Corvette Copper/Bronze with semi gloss black stripes.

More to follow!

Cheers,

Scott

[Bill D]

Oooohhh, I can't wait to see it!

[Scott Calabro]

Bill,

I can't wait either!

I did forget to mention one option.....

11). Weber 44 IDF's

Cheers,
Scott

[Phil]

Scott
Sounds like a nice group of parts that you spec'd for the car, can't wait for photos. What brakes are you using?
Cheers
Phil

[Scott Calabro]

Hi Phil,

I must admit that I do not know the Wilwood p/n yet. Andy Sheldon is busy putting together USA specific kits. As soon as I know, I will post it here.

Cheers,

Scott

[Scott Calabro]

Hi All,

Phil ... The rear brake calipers will have a cable actuated mechanisim for applying the P-brake. That is all I know right now.

............................................................ ........................................

Here are some pictures of the shop and the UN1, after bead blast, water rinse, etch, alodine, epoxy prime and paint.

The case is from a -26 (Lotus Espirit, heavier case rib's around the ring & pinion, more aluminum at the 5th gear bearing support. Plus the shifter mechanisim inside the tail is improved over the -13).

The lower gearset and R&P are both UN1-13 piece's.

The gearsets were both very low mileage and in pristine condition. New O-rings, seals and gaskets have been used exclusively.

Kind of the best of both worlds.

Soon I'll post some 289 pic's at the engine shop.

Cheers,
Scott

[Russ Noble]

Nicely done Scott. You could probably get a job in aviation....

Good luck with the build and the dealership.

Cheers

[Bill D]

Nice shop!!!!!

[Scott Calabro]

Russ ....

Bill D .... THANKS!

Cheers,
Scott

[Scott Calabro]

A few more pictures.....

Bell housing index

Cyl. head setup for .050" flat mill

Completed UN1-26 with 3.44 F/D

Ross pistons & Probe 5.4" 513 gram rods.

Sorry for the poor picture exposure.


Scott

[Dave S]

Looking good Scott
when we going to see some chassis pics?

[Scott Calabro]

Chassis build-up pictures in the jig fixture from England, soon!



Scott

[Scott Calabro]

Long block pictures ...

Cheers,
S

[Jac Mac]

Not using any stand pipes in the valley drains to cut down on windage Scott?

Jac Mac

[Scott Calabro]

Jac Mac,

I was not aware that valley standpipes were available for the SBF .

Do you have a mfg. & P/N?



Scott

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by 5150

Jac Mac,

I was not aware that valley standpipes were available for the SBF .

Do you have a mfg. & P/N?



Scott

No this has a Diykiwi prefix- Ford drill those holes to 0.500" which precludes using stuff destined for that 'other' brand. I usually just break the guts out of 4 old 14mm spark plugs, cut the thread down so they dont protrude into the cam cavity & press /easyflo a piece of thinwall tube into the plug body. To tap those holes to 14mm turn the block assy upside down while on the engine stand and apply some grease to the tap.( You can stamp em pn#SCM001.). You did do the CC ' Louie' mod to the lifter bores did you not?
You might also want to consider stand pipes in the corner drains of your alloy heads to raise the (running) oil level up to the base of the stem seals. Drill a small 0.050" hole in the alloy tube where it enters the head drilling so that oil can drain after shut down.

Jac Mac

[Scott Calabro]

Ahhhhh..... Kiwi thinking!

Good idea on the fabrication, I am concerned though that with standpipes, under heavy braking oil will not retun to the pan so well as no drains are in the front of the valley. I'll ask the engine guy, but I know what he'll say.... "You said you only wanted 300-350 HP, why the hell are you concerned with valley pipes"

The lifter bores were checked for index/bore, I'm not sure what the "CC LOUIE" mod is !!!!

Clue me in.



Best,
Scott

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by 5150

Ahhhhh..... Kiwi thinking!

Good idea on the fabrication, I am concerned though that with standpipes, under heavy braking oil will not retun to the pan so well as no drains are in the front of the valley. I'll ask the engine guy, but I know what he'll say.... "You said you only wanted 300-350 HP, why the hell are you concerned with valley pipes"

The lifter bores were checked for index/bore, I'm not sure what the "CC LOUIE" mod is !!!!

Clue me in.



Best,
Scott

There is a large opening at the front of the valley (just behind cam sprocket) that will allow drainback under braking- so no dramas there. In reducing windage you gain 'free HP' the best kind, doesnt cost you anything.

The lifter bore mod is a groove in each bore from approx 3/4 height DOWN on the side adjacent to cyls 1234 (Ford). this allows a small jet of oil from the lifter oil gallery to spray on the cam lobe just before it contacts the lifter base . With the oil quality of today it is virtually a must with flat tappet cams & also helps street rollers as well.( If your engine builder is not doing this, he should consider it. Can be the difference between success & failure on the later aggresive cams ) Comp Cams make a tool for the job-pn #5005 for ford- page 379 in my Catalog with pic of principle. [[ In NZ being in a state of poverty we use old hacksaw blades with only 0.75" of teeth on each end & wrapped with a bit of tape to save the fingers, to cut this groove--about 0.010" deep by the blade wide seems to do the trick ]]
I recently fitted some new springs to a FT 351c that has raced for two seasons untouched & the cam & lobes were the best I have seen in a long time. This was a worst case scenario as the owner has a maintenance programme where if it drops off you do two more laps to decide if that bit was actually reqd. Wont even let the rockers off over the off season to give the springs some respite- all caught up with him this year though!!!!

Jac Mac

[Scott Calabro]

Jac,

I'm using Crower lifters that have a .015 hole in the lifter face to help lube the cam lobes. I guess this accomplishes the same thing as grooved lifter bores. I'm thinking oil return over the camshaft is a non issue for my intended usage. I am using a Canton tray to help with windage. You are right though every little bit helps.

My cam/ spring setup is not all that crazy. Holman Moody C30Z, 289 Hi -Po grind. Springs are 130 on the seat, 300 over the nose as I recall , with TI retainers. Early lobe wear should be no problem as the motor will be professionally broken in/tested on the inertia dyno.

You are correct, I see the hole for drainage as I look at the pictures of the valley.

Thanks for the tips


Scott

[Colin Artus]

Scott,
What's with the lifter valley braces? Is this to combat deficiencies in the standard 302 block?

Colin