Thanks Ross, I'm open to suggestions. It will be a road registered car, and yes, I know the sacrafice in performance that this brings. It will be registered with a 302W, trans will be Audi 016. Plan is to get it licenced (due by Nov '08), then take it all apart and build it properly.
I only referred to it as the old RF race car as this is what it was initially built for. Comes with some nice bits, 360mm front and 330mm rear Harrop rotors, hubs by the same, Brembo callpiers, etc. Not sure what I'll do with the air jack(s) yet?!?
The dash has been modified to accept the Motec dash unit, however I'll shape it back to standard to suit normal dials.
Here are a couple of pics, it only arrived on Monday. First one is in the crate leaving RF factory. others are just a couple of random shots with panels just sat in place, minus the sills, of course...
Will you be registering it as a Hot Rod (Not sure that'll be allowed) or an ICV? There's major differences in the hoops you'll have to jump through between the 2.
Specifically in the engine dept for an ICV you'll either need to present with an engine and stock ECU which is 1997 or newer or pass the IM240 test (which apparently is due anytime now and has been for several years).
I thought the regs in Vic were if anything tougher than WA? On DOTARS it seems pretty much states can override with regs they want, which is why they end up issuing "codes of practice" as they can't force the states to tow the line.
I believe with proper prep EFI and cats the IM240 test should be passable by virtually all engines even if some "special" programming is required.
It's not hard to license an ICV in Wa, infact it's a no brainer with the right
Engineer. I've licensed 2 ICV's and both times were no stress. Let me know if I can be of any help.
I see, you might want to apply for one in WA too they're not a drama to get and may help lock you in to the current regs, in case something mad happens to them down the road.
I didn't know Perth was such a hot bed of car construction there's at least 3 40's and a T70 I've spotted on the forum all ready. Roll that in with all the Clubbies built and under construction in the state and there's a fair few people into the hobby.
BTW I'd recommend the joining Car Builders Club if you've not heard of it already, they're doing a great job of keeping the DPI honest and straight and stops you feeling like a lone head case in the city. They meet next Thursday BTW.
I've started piecing the suspension together, and am thinking about different ways to make the Dogbones to connect the front callipers to the uprights.
At the moment, it is an aluminium plate used as a template.
Is anyone else using Brembo callipers? Or ones which connect at 90 degrees to the upright mount holes?
I have finished the aluminium panels now, and now I've started fitting up all the suspension components.
Here are a couple of shots of the rear set up, with the adjustable lower control arms. The rod ends are fairly beefy, although this presented a few issues that have now been overcome.
I have fitted all the parts using washers as spacers. Plan is to machine up these from solid material once I work out some settings and also exactly what goes where!
I'll post some shots of the panel work shortly, as well as the front end set up with brakes fitted.
Front set up, still some tweaking to do. Panels around front wheel arch were not so straight forward, chassis having been revised for 18" wheels (not my decision!).
You are doing a great job of it and moving along nicely time-wise too.
We can make the dogbones for you if you want, a couple of basic dimensions (per your sketch of the upper bearing brkt) and we're away.
The front rotors need to swap sides - had to add that mate !
Regards Paul
Troy, I think the callipers are on the wrong side as well.
It looks like they have blue and red labels.
Blue = right = starboard Red = left = port (all the short words are together)
The Second hand mono-block Brembo race callipers have probably been stressed by being used in a previous rotational direction as well. Just insuring that the calliper bleed nipple is at the top is no guarantee as they can be swapped with the link pipe on the other end.
