Troy's RF "Race" Chassis - Page 3

Ross Nicol · 02-24-08, 08:33 PM

Troy
AP on their website give the rotation for curved vane rotors.Should be installed with cooling vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation.Paul would no doubt have been drawing your attention to this.

Ross

Troy · 02-24-08, 08:45 PM

Hi Ross,

Thanks. I was all over the AP website on the weekend after realizing this.

As a side note, Harrop don't seem to promote these sized rotors on their website, and I can only assume that they are specific to a certain race category.

Melbourne has got to be the place to be for this kind of stuff, much bigger racing community over there.

Ross Nicol · 02-24-08, 09:03 PM

Paul gave me a loan of one of those rotors off your car when I was doing my brake upgrade and they wouldn't fit inside my 17" wheels with my calipers.I had to stick with 330mm rotors but they really are adequate as my brakes work well now.

Ross

Troy · 02-24-08, 09:15 PM

Before the car and bits left the factory, we put a rotor and calliper inside the 17" wheels that RF offer and it did fit, by about a bees dick.

But this was not set up with the hub, and the correct mounting block for the calliper so it is anyone's guess. I will measure them properly once the blocks are machined up, and take it from there.

Handy info though, thanks for that. Your racer going well?

Ross Nicol · 02-24-08, 09:58 PM

I still have my old motor in, down on HP but wheels are all ready to go and I've fitted a rear spoiler for a bit more down force. So during the year the HP will be back plus a bit, well more torque anyway.State race meeting at Sandown this weekend so let's hope 2008 is a better year than 2007. Having said that a little cup arrived in the mail last week for 3rd place in VMRC 2007 - Victorian motor racing Championship, one more trophy for the cabinet.Can't be too bad.

Ross

Troy · 06-04-08, 04:06 AM

Nice work Ross, hope the year is tracking nicely.

As for my car, progress has been steady. The car is now being stripped back to the chassis for re-powder coating. Given it has seen a fair few years in the old RF's workshop, I thought it best to give it a birthday and make it look like new once more.

I need to make some alterations to the chassis beforehand though. As the car was destined for life on the track, certain areas of the car need to be modified to withstand daily (yeah right) use. There was no provision for a handbrake, and hence steel framework around the centre of the car. The plan of attack is to finish this in the next few days, using round tube for a clean radiused top panel down the centre of the car.

Thanks to everyone who replied to the "superwide rear clip" question on the RF section, I will be making this change to the bodywork in due course.

Here are a couple of fairly recent shots of the car nearly naked (lets hope she never ends up on this angle again - especially once finished!). Looks a bit grim I must admit, but even though it looks like I'm going backwards, it definitely feels like I've turned the corner!

Troy · 06-18-08, 12:10 AM

I'm making a few changes purely for my own preference. First shot shows location of old and new rear chassis rail, as well at the new rear structure bracing. (That is the project foreman just inspecting the tack welds - in the background)

Second shows that things are getting serious! Not an easy cut to make.

The car is currently living on the back patio area due to the partial house renovation.

Bobski · 06-18-08, 08:56 AM

Brave man Troy. Just a question, whats your lower "A" arm going to swing off?

Troy · 06-18-08, 09:46 AM

Hi Bob. This car doesn't run the standard rear suspension set-up. It has the two adjustable lower conrol arms. New pick up points for these will be attached relative to their original positions, along with new braced brackets for the upper control arm.

I am yet to weld on the rear clip hinge plates, and also mounting holes / brackets for the transaxle.

Happily, everything is still square and true though. More progress pics to follow, along with the new tunnel frame being installed.

Clayton · 06-21-08, 07:02 AM

Hi Troy
The first cut is always the hardest. Have you trial fitted the engine and gearbox with the new cross member ? The reason I ask, there’s not much room between the back of the gearbox and rear clip. Or will you be moving the engine fwd ?

Clayton

Troy · 06-23-08, 12:36 AM

Hi Clayton, from what I can gather, mine has been positioned a little further back than yours. From it's original position, it is 120mm higher, and 90mm aft.

Measurements seem to indicate that it'll fit, but of course if it doesn't, that's what grinders and welders are for!

She is welded into place now (sorry, haven't taken the pics yet), and I have specifically left the top of the rear member without any connections welded to it. The top braces (from the top suspension mount) attach to the front of the bar, and the main chassis rails rise to meet both the bottom and the front of it.

I did this so that I can mount the oil coolers without obstruction.

Tonight I will be adding the bracing and triangulation, but at least the bones of the thing are there again!

I'll bang a couple of pics up tomorrow to explain it a little better.

Clayton · 06-23-08, 07:42 AM

Hi Troy
My cross member is 530mm back from the bulkhead (65 x 35mm RHS) to the front edge. And 205mm from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the cross member.
Had to make it a triangle cross section to clear the rear clip and a cut out for the gearbox as well. Can’t remember how much it moved from the original position though.

Clayton

Troy · 06-24-08, 03:48 AM

No progress last night (too cold out there!)

But here are a couple of shots showing what I am trying to achieve. The lower brace angle and spacer can be seen still in place, they'll get cut out once she' all welded up.

Hopefully more welding tonight...