Toms RCR 40 Trackracer

[Big-Foot]

Some very nice work there Tom!

Thanks for all your encouragement on my build. I'm making a fair amount of progress!

[Mark Clapp]

Extra nice work. The shape is great.

[EGLITOM]

I´ve been working hard on my flare moulds last week.

Flares sanded 400 grit prior in preparation for the moulding.


I laminated the moulds last saturday. Couldn´t take any pictures because it was so much work. 10 layers had to be cut an laid on.
1. epoxy gelcoat powdered with aluminum powder , cured over night
2. next day first layer 160g Küpperwoofen glass
3. 2nd layer 220g küpperwoofen glass
4. 3rd and 4 th layer 400g biaxed glass
5. 5 th layer coremate
6. 6th and 7th layer 400g biaxed ( reversed direction vs layer 1 to 4 to avoid warping of th mould)
7. 8th layer 220g küpperwoofen glass
8. 9th layer 160 küpperwoofen glass
9. 2 days curing and tempering ( due to the use of epoxy resin)
10. yesterday: forming out and reinforcement against warping

reinforced mould on the car


moulds from the inside

Moulds for rocker panel extensions



brought the moulds to my " glass guru" and he will form some nice parts out of them.

TOM

awh: 185

[Jonathan S]

I'm suprised you feel the need to outsource the last steps. Your work looks outstanding so far.

[I LOVE GT40- Paolo]

We are going to see soon the nicest gt40 in germany!

(Tom...my pray..IF u dare, bring her to the ring and make a lap dedicated to me...will love it!! )

[Big-Foot]

Very nice work Tom - As usual! I also don't know why you wouldn't want to mold your own parts...

I wish I understood what küpperwoofen was... Is that Fiberglass Mat (unidirectional) ?

[Rob]

Tom,
Looking fantastic man. Great work...!!!

[EGLITOM]

Randy:
found this one: The correct english expression is "crowfoot weave"

"The crowfoot weave is achieved when one warp yarn weaves over three and under one fill yarn. Crowfoot weaves offer more pliability and drapability than plain weave fabrics."

see also this link: ACM - Styles

Why outsource: It is just for economical and quality reasons. Martin has all the materials available, he is quick and affordable; Although i could do it, his parts are of outstanding quality. He achieves a great fiber to resin ratio, giving the most lightweight parts with high stability. I have a seat mould for my racebikes. Once i made a part by myself and all other parts out of it where made by Martin. THe difference in weight, stability and appearance ( he just know how to put in layer for layer in the correct directions to take all the forces) is just so visible, that i prefer his competence for parts which are finally going on to the car.
and
believe me there are nicer things to do than this fiberglass work.

TOM

[Jean-Paul Reckinger]

Hello Tom ,
how's progress or are you on holiday

[EGLITOM]

HAven´t done much on the car due to preparing for a 4 h motorcycle endurance race ( see the paddock),

I have started to fix all the body components to the chassis. Some activities planned next week planned (fixing the rocker panels to the chassiis, finalizing weatherstripping and foaming the spider for more stability>). Than another two weeks off for vacation with my family.

TOM

[Big-Foot]

Thanks for the explanation of the weaves Tom..

Hope your race goes well!!

[EGLITOM]

take a look here

Happy TOM

TOM

[EGLITOM]

Break is over, now back to work.
Started to fix my body panels this week.
After i have had it all aligned and the doors adjusted with the weatherstripping in it i started with fixing the spider. For this i reeinforced the base plate of the b pillar with a 10mm carbonfiber plate.
For fixing the spider to the chassis i used nutrivets ( 8mm thread for the b pillar and 6mm thread for all aorund the windscreen base). Underneath the b pillar i used a 4mm Rubberpad and under the windscreen base a 1,5mm rubber gasket. This for sealing and for a some kind of elastic mounting to the chassis.

Base plate b pillar


Screwed down windscreen base


I also mounted my rocker panels
same thing, using 6mm nutrivets for mounting it to the chassis.
I also used a 20 x 12mm ( inner dimensions) alu angle stock to clamp the rocker panels to the chassis. The angle stock provides a nice possibility to install a bottom weatherstripping.
Between the chassis and the panels again i used a1,5mm rubber gasket, which also helps to close the gaps even further.
Rubber gasket on chassis


Angle stock with weatherstripping

mounted


ALso mounted my Hartwell latches. This are the shut lines now after fixing everything. I still have not sanded or gapped them at all, they are like they left the RCR factory.

rear clip, b pillar, door -roof line

front clip door line

A pillar- door roof line


On Friday we will fill the spider with 2 k non-expandable epoxy foam.

TOM

awh: 200h

[Simon]

Good to have you back on it Tom. I've said it before and i'll say it again - those shutlines are exceptional - after gapping, sanding and several coats of paint/clearcoat - wow !

[EGLITOM]

My Engine is ready to ship next week.

my desicion was to went with Gordon Levy from Levyracing AZ.
His reputation as a custom engine builder is very high especially in Cobra circels. The major thing i speced was that i want to be able to turn it savely up to 7800 RPM and have peak power around 7200 RPM but still keep drivability and reliability. Gordon came up with the following solution.

A 302 based 331 build on the new FMS Boss block. Forged, internaly balanced rotating assembly. Custom ported Edelbrock Victor Jr heads; a custom grind solid flat tappet cam with comp cams pro magnum roller rockers; Super victor intake; 750 Pro series carb; Aviad GT40 oil pan;
MSD AL 6 ignition; Short explorer water pump setup; Complete including installation of alternator and AC compressor with a serpentine belt system.

THe first dyno runs in june didn´t show the expected result and Gordon went over the engine again, designing a new cam profile, and working on the heads again. Finally he tested the engine again in JUly and here you go. He achieved the desired very flat torque curve, which will give a nice drivable engine ( the dyno sheet starts at 5100 RPM but the engine has 380 lbs ft at 4000 RPM). He pulled it until 7200 RPM on this dyno run, but did´nt want to take it to far, but one can see that it still was building power.

I´m very happy with this result, because it fits exactly my gearing ( which i set up for a power band of 5000 to 7000).
Actually i fear this engine, because i never had to handle this kind of power in a car.



TOM

[John]

That's some nice numbers! Is it a 4.030X3.250 bore/stroke, or a larger bore with a shorter stroke?

[Rob]

Fantastic Tom. Looking great man. Looking forward to more updates.

[EGLITOM]

Originally Posted by Jay P

That's some nice numbers! Is it a 4.030X3.250 bore/stroke, or a larger bore with a shorter stroke?

3,25" stroke

TOM