GT-Forte GTs40 build - Page 12

David · 14th April 2012, 09:55 AM

Small update, back feeling much better so fitted the engine mounting rubbers.

After lots of consideration I just drilled into the existing SBF engine mounts.

(Note the high-tech engine support

)
I'll be adding a load spreading plate so I've just put a 3mm spacer in for now.

The gearbox I'm using the same mounting rubbers, they just screw in however

Fingers crossed I might get some time tomorrow and I'll make up the engine and gearbox mounts themselves.

David · 15th April 2012, 06:16 PM

Tiny update again, grabbed an hour today, cut the plates to fit to the engine and the rubbers and then drilled them. Well partly drilled them, I need an 11mm drill (which I don't have) to match the existing mounts so its a touch tight. Oh and I need some more bolts, the original engine mount bolts are now too long and typically are M10 fine thread which of course I don't have apart from the flywheel bolts (which I'll not be re-using so are getting pressed into temp use here).

Bit tricky to get a photo as I'm using the camera on my phone so no flash.

I should really have taken another picture of the other side too as it shows just how tight the mount is to the dip-stick tube.

Still haven't cleaned up the engine, that'll happen later.

Ran out of time at this stage, next job is to make some cardboard templates to bridge the two pieces of metal then cut and tack weld them in situ. I think I'll shorten the thread on the end of the rubber too, makes life rather tricky.

David · 8th May 2012, 08:23 PM

Bit of a long time since my last update. I've had a good excuse though, I had a delivery of something else entirely!

For those that are curious it's a girl, 7lb 3oz, two weeks old now and doing great, so much so I've had a little play with the GT40 again...

While I was at Stoneleigh I picked up a quick release steering wheel hub, I'd dithered for ages over which one to get, pretty much settled on this type but wasn't sure. Rally design had a load of different types plus of course £5 off and no postage so after a play with each I decided on this one.

The wheel I'm going to use isn't the right PCD however so out with the lathe. Bolt a slab of 6082 to the adapter.

Take off a small amount in the lathe.

And then bolt it up to the adapter

I'm thinking I may recess the nuts in the back and I'm considering recessing the QR hub into the adapter too. Then I'll need to clean it up and I'm thinking get it anodised black to match the QR hub. Oh needs new bolts too, far too long.

That's not 'the' wheel I'm going to use btw, it's my 'construction' wheel, cost me all of £3!

I may use it for IVA though as the wheel I intend on getting is flat, having a dished wheel avoids the need for a padded centre.

Joe · 9th May 2012, 12:57 PM

David,

Congratulations on the new addition to your family!

Joe

David · 9th May 2012, 07:47 PM

Thanks Joe!

I forgot to add to my last update that I plan on going with a Mountney 14in flat black leather wheel. I'm pretty sure this is the same type Tornado do based this thread: Early style steering wheel boss

But it does look as if the wheel Tornado do is smaller, maybe its a 12 or 13in?

Tornado

14in Mountney

Before anyone suggests it, the Moto lita is very nice but at not far off three times the price and *still* not original not really worth it IMO.

Mick Ridley · 10th May 2012, 03:09 PM

Congratulations Dave you must be very proud

Jessica. is a lovely looking baby......

Its good to see you are back on with your car

mick

Enrique Chiquete · 11th May 2012, 01:54 AM

Congratulations Dave!! Like you I have been recently blessed with a baby boy, I know how time consuming babies are so great to hear about your updates mate...

Ian K · 11th May 2012, 04:20 AM

Congrats on the new addition to the family Dave.

I have three rugrats of my own, the littlest is about to turn two.

Ian

Darrin · 11th May 2012, 10:27 AM

Hi Dave,

My GTForte should be here in a month or two and I am curious what you decided on for tire/wheel combination.

I'm wanting to go with a tire closer to the height of the original GT40 but I am concerned that the right height will be raised too much (about an inch). Is the suspension on our cars adjustable for ride height to compensate do you know?

David · 11th May 2012, 11:29 AM

Thanks guys!

Ian, my oldest is now two and is great, somewhat of a car and bike nut already, loved looking at the GT40's (kept pointing at each and saying "Daddies Car") and couldn't be dragged away from the drifting westfields at stoneleigh.

Anyway, Darrin. I'm going for 17in wheels, I'm thinking at the moment ~8in front, 10in rear. I'm wanting BRM style, most likely image wheels like these:

As a comparison these are the halibrand style 15in (I think, maybe 16in, hard to tell) wheels

My main reason for going 17in rather than 15/16 is choice of tyre, wide 15/16in tyres are limited and expensive. 17in are common and (relatively) cheap. 18in+ personally I think are a bit much and reduce the tyre choice (plus increase costs).

Height difference should be negligible but how much depends on the tyre you choose and its profile. Try having a play with this Tyre Size Calculator - Changing Tyres - Etyres against what tyres you're thinking and the prices to see what is the best compromise for you and how much difference you can make in height.

Yes ride height is adjustable by adjusting preload on the shocks, there is a range in which the suspension can physically move, limited at the front by angle of the "transit drop link" top link and if taken to extremes the lower ball joint too. I'm not sure what is the limiting factor at the back.

You're best to specify what size tyres you're planning on running and what ride height you want, the shocks can then be specified based on that and the front top link can be angled accordingly. It's possible you might be able to get a transit drop link with a slightly wider range of movement but its not worth relying on it.

Darrin · 11th May 2012, 02:38 PM

Thanks Dave!

For the type of tires I plan to run, the larger wheels actually seem to be far more prevalent. Almost seems like they are phasing out ultra high performance tires in the 17" size here. 19" seems to be the sweet spot and it's probably the size I will go with (besides, a smaller aspect ratio helps performance).

What rotors did you decide on? Are you going with Wilwood, or something else? I've been contemplating using either Corvette or very late model Mustang rotors and brakes assuming they will work fine bolted up to Darren's upgraded aluminum front hubs.

David · 13th May 2012, 06:21 PM

Darrin, Having seen your other post and knowing your engine I can see why.

I'm taking a slightly different route in not chasing massive power, this then means I don't need massively wide tyres, currently my engine makes about 260hp, while I'm hoping to up that somewhat to around 300hp I'm not looking for the 4-600hp monsters that some are running. Currently I'm thinking I'm going to run 255/40 R17 rears, which are 25.03in in dia (636mm), nothing is set in stone as yet however.

I'm currently thinking to go with the wilwoods as they're pretty reasonably priced while having lots of options for different top-hat's etc.

Anyway, back to my build.

I decided I wasn't happy with the 'step' in the steering adapter so stuck the adapter back in the lathe. A bit more work and

Which means that the quick release hub now fits flush

The only problem is of course that now the bolts are too long!

More bolts on order, the only question now is what type should I use on front, Button or socket cap?

The other thing I looked at was an electrical connection 'through' the quick release, after looking through *far* too many specs of connectors I finally decided on Mini DIN (same as S-video or PS/2 keyboard/mouse connectors) and bought a pair of the 8 pin in-line versions. I don't have a use for 8 pins but it's just as much grief to add 1 as it is to add 8 and I may find a use later.

Lose the plastic shrouds and left with these:

A bit of light filing on the plastic round the outside and the female fits inside the splined section:

I'll epoxy it in place once the splined adapter has been welded onto the steering column.

The other side I'll solder a large washer to it and 'trap' it between the adapter and quick release hub (that btw is why there is now a hole in the middle of the adapter).

Darrin · 15th May 2012, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastdruid

Darrin, Having seen your other post and knowing your engine I can see why.

Yes. Initially I'll just go with either the Coyote, or more than likely the stronger Roadrunner (Boss version) in stock trim but I plan on bumping that up shortly after (keeping my eye on a company doing research now...8 stack). The end goal is 550HP. I have reasons for that number.

One BIG question if you wouldn't mind...how big is the seating area in our cars?

The bottom is the area I am most concerned about. Hoping it's at least 22" wide so it will fit some seats I have in mind!

David · 19th May 2012, 05:27 PM

550hp should be fun, if I start wanting that I'll stick twin-turbos on, that's about the 1UZ limit before it'll start engine modifications.

Seating area is 505mm drivers side, 455mm passengers, although the drivers side also includes 50mm for the gearchange etc so its really 455mm both sides or just under 18inches... those seats wont fit.

BTW for anyone wanting the same steering wheel the cheapest I found was from here:
MSW43FBLB WHEEL-STEERING HIDE FLAT BLACK - MOUNTNEY BLACK HIDE BLACK CENTRE

The quick release adapter was this one:
Professional Motorsport Parts, Spares & Rally Equipment from Rally Design

I obviously made the adapter but for those without a lathe you'll need one of these:
Professional Motorsport Parts, Spares & Rally Equipment from Rally Design

Darrin · 19th May 2012, 08:53 PM

Thanks for the seat and steering wheel info! Going to look at that now.

Back to the drawing board on seats though. Thought it was wider than that. Ugh.

Bill Musarra · 20th May 2012, 01:23 PM

One seat you might want to look at is the Racetech seats. The Saker style is the one for the GT40. It is laid back to fit the angle of the firewall. It can be recovered any way you like it. They have the openings for the shoulder harness as well as the crotch strap(s). I am 5-9 and 160 and it is a great fit. Just barely fits in the space for the seats.They post all the dimensions of the seat(s). Here is their site.
RTSAKER : Racetech North America, Racing Seats

Here they are in DRB#5

If you look back at some of the build logs I am sure you can find a style that will work for you. There are standard seats and custom ones as well.

Bill

David · 26th May 2012, 10:13 AM

Nothing exciting but finally managed to pick up a set of granada hubs, bearing carriers and driveshafts for a reasonable price. Spent last night cleaning them up somewhat.

Look to be in good condition.

Still lots of cleaning to do and then I'll need to get a bit more aggressive, remove the rust and paint them.

Also decided to lose the existing thermostat for firewall clearance issues and run with a remote one, I was going to make one until I realised that I couldn't even buy the materials and a new thermostat for as cheap as I could just buy a BMW 318 one! QTH126 if you want the part number, 1.25in in/outlets.

MikeM · 26th May 2012, 03:11 PM

Hi David

I have just found your build log, and I am really enjoying it

I have just registered as I am currently looking at buying a GT40 replica, and have been looking at the kit you are building and would really value your opinion.

I have built a number of cars over the years, last being a cobra 289 replica which I really enjoy, but now want a new challenge.

Incidently I am based in South Birmingham too!

any advice would be appreciated

kind regards

Mike

TrevS · 26th May 2012, 07:44 PM

Hi David

Can I ask what you used to clean up the driveshafts and hubs. I need to do mine in the next couple of weeks and wondered what the best thing to use on them was

Thanks

Trevor

David · 26th May 2012, 08:58 PM

So far I've just wiped the grease off and used muc-off on the dirty bits. They're not that clean really, just not filthy any more!

I'll clean them up later properly using Paraffin (Kerosine), although you can also use mineral turpentine, diesel, thinners or even petrol (bit of a fire risk though so not really advised).

If you are using s/h CV joints then see here for cleaning them CV joint preparation. although seeing as you can get them for ~£19 ea I'm personally going to go new (assuming yours are also Granada
J & R Trading (UK) Ltd Store - Search Results for "granada" )

The rusty bits I'll clean up using a wire brush before painting. The hub face I'll leave unpainted as it needs to be totally flat otherwise you'll get run out.