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Old 22nd March 2012, 10:18 PM   #21
Dwight
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Smile Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

worked on our trailer today but I did take time to pull one of the fuel gauges out of the dash.
one pair of wires are yellow with black or red tracers. They are wired to the shielded cable to the sending unit (black and white wires). The other wires from the gauge are red, black and white. He has the red hooked to the ignition switch, the black to ground and the white to the dash light circuit on the light switch.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the RCR gauges? That would help a lot.

There is no color code of the wires under the dash. I have to trace each one and sometimes it will change color two or three times.

I could use a few of the two conductor connector for the gauges. A lot of the wires are twisted and taped with less than an inch of wire out of the connector.
I would like the use the factory connectors if I can find them. If I had the pins I could re-pin the connector with new wire.

Thanks
Dwight
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Old 23rd March 2012, 06:10 AM   #22
Fran Hall RCR
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Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight

The guages in a car of your vintage will be Classic Instruments...its a standard gauge set...nothing tricky...http://www.classicinstruments.com/

I will have Vicki scan and email you their supplied directions...if we have one , we switched suppliers about three years ago...we now use Speedhut

Every builder builds his car differently...as your car was purchsed used, you may well find it advantageous to actually make yourself a new dash harness of your own design that way its intuitive to you for the future..
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Old 23rd March 2012, 08:57 AM   #23
Dwight
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Smile Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Thanks Fran.

my email address is [email protected]
I wired a Cobra dash for a friend with SpeedHut gauges three years ago and mine look the same.

Could you get Vicky to email the SpeedHut wiring diagram also?

I do plan to rewire the dash. I have added a fuse panel because I need a few more fuses. I found some of the pumps did not have a fused circuit. I plan to move all the relays to the same location. Some were under the dash in behind the wiring and some were in the rear in the frame. They would be hard to get to on the side of the road. Being a electrician by trade I look at wiring a little different than some people. I want all the fuses and relays in the same location for easy of maintenance .
It's looking good and I'm having fun. I would like to do the Hot Rod Power Tour in this car next year.

I have wired and rewired a few Cobras in the pass so this is not hard, just the instruments and a few components are unknown to me.
Thanks for all the help.
Dwight
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Old 23rd March 2012, 09:31 AM   #24
Dwight
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this is the connectors I would like to buy. Are they SpeedHut or Classic?
Dwight


and the gauge

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Old 27th March 2012, 09:35 PM   #25
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Thanks Dave L

I found a site with pictures of the unit and mine are Centroid.

The site also had the wiring diagram.

I ripped out the dash wire and I have a fab shop making a switch plate out of stainless. I cut the fiberglass out where the switches were mounted. Now it will be easier to install the gauges and the SS plate will give it that race car look. Maybe, I hope.
I removed the windshield last night. Now I get to clean it up.

What is the measurement for the windshield opening?

Looking good.

Dwight

Last edited by Dwight; 27th March 2012 at 09:36 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 29th March 2012, 10:30 PM   #26
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Found out today that I have SpeedHut gauge and a friend emailed me a wiring diagram. I'm good to go.

Coach Mike dropped by this morning and help me set the windshield out of the car and onto a wood storage rack. I cleaned windshield and sealing ledge.

Then I installed the demister grill after I fitted and painted it. I was able to bend the louvers to make it blow the air across the windshield. With paint it looks like a factory piece. Very nice, much better than the stainless mesh that I removed.

I made a stainless box to mount the accessory plug, hazard switch and the on/off control for the heater. I mounted it on the bottom center of the dash. I installed the indication lights for the turn signal and high beam, plus I installed one the fan. I like to know when it's running. I also mounted a few of the switches.

I started filling all the holes used to mount the Lexan with resin. Some were striped. They are not uniformly spaced and a different number of holes on one side compared to the other side. The incorrect Rivet nuts were used and most had pulled out or were spinning when I tried to remove the screw.
All in all, a good day and I mowed the grass at the house.
I have a doctors appointment tomorrow and Saturday we have a Cobra Club get together in Huntsville. I should be able to get back on the 40 by Monday.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it's not a train.
Dwight
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Old 30th March 2012, 10:33 AM   #27
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Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post

...I removed the windshield last night. Now I get to clean it up.

What is the measurement for the windshield opening?

Dwight
Dwight,
Saw your post this morning and thought I could help. Sent you a PM.

Tom
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Old 30th March 2012, 03:05 PM   #28
Dwight
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Thanks Tom
I forgot to measure the opening and the glass. I will do that this afternoon.

Dwight
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Old 4th April 2012, 10:51 PM   #29
Dwight
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I was working on my Cobra when I spotted 1/4" stainless tubing and a large piece of aluminum mesh in the corner.

A couple of hours later I had a grill installed on the 40. That should keep the rocks and birds out of my radiator.

Worked on the wiring a little while the Cobra parts where cooling down.

I should finish the Cobra tomorrow and get back on the 40 wiring.

Dwight
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Old 2nd March 2013, 11:09 PM   #30
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Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight... How is the car? Is it in operation?
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Old 3rd March 2013, 12:57 AM   #31
Dwight
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Slow progress last year, cancer and hernia surgery, but I'm back 100%. I did a little rewiring on a 64 Plymouth and 56 Fairlane last summer and for the last 5 weeks I spend finishing a build on a 68 Chevy truck. Last week a buddy dropped his Cobra off at my shop for me to install a hard top and a few mods. I did removed the GT 40 body a few months back and glassed in the holes for the side windows, rear glass and lights because they were stripped, in the wrong place, different number on one side compared to the other side, etc. I did get the Gurney bubble glassed into the door. I'm going to move the wiper to the drivers side. Part of that is done. The paint shop has worked on the rear deck, hood and doors. But I have a little bit of glass work to do on the front clip and spider before I take them to the paint shop. He should have the doors primed by next week.
I removed the fuel fillers and heater & air conditioner last week. The air conditioner was not gassed up so that made it easier to remove.
A friend came over today and patched all the holes (maybe 30 plus holes, took two hours) in the aluminum under the dash area. Most of the holes for the gas filler caps were stripped out. Ron welded them up so I can drill and tap them in the correct place. One large ugly hole where the wiper was installed got patched. The fuel filler tube where radiator hoses so they will have to be replaced. I did made one out of steel and should get the other done next week. Big thanks to Keith Wilson's build log on how to do it.
Now I can start putting it back together. I've cut the dash so it will be removable. I have more work to do there. I looking at replace the rear Plexiglas with glass. I need a design for a frame to hold the glass. Still thinking about that. Searching the forum for info on that project at night. I did go to a mechanical shop that I get metal from and talk to Vic about cutting me a new rear window frame on their plasma cutter. He told me to bring a template and they can do it.
I spend a couple of hours every night reading Chuck's, Tom's and Keith's build logs learning how to install / fix / modify my 40. Huge help, big time saver for me!
I need to remove the roll bar so I can paint it. I don't think that is going to be easy. I tried a couple of months back but could not get the bulkhead off the frame. Everything is covered in Dyno mat so I gave up and put the bolts back. But I was looking at how beat up the roll bar paint is so I know I will have to remove it.

I've promised myself I would work on it at least two day a week because I would like to have it on the road by June.

I did get it rewired before I removed the dash.

I have a guy with a 67 Mustang fastback that wants me to wire it. A friend with a 64 Fairlane, wiring, a 56 Buick, wiring. It looks like I'm the car wiring guy! I do like it and I have all the tools and material in my shop so it's easy to make good progress on rewiring a car. And it's gives me the money that I need to spend on my car.
I'm glad I retired a year ago Jan, because I don't have time for a full time job.

I love it.
See ya on the road.

Dwight
2013 Ford Race Red, no strips but I will have white sill strips
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Old 7th October 2013, 10:34 PM   #32
Dwight
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I pulled the motor and trannie out. I'm going to build a 347 and use the TFS TW heads and the Eight Stack injection system. Shooting for 500 hp.

I had the roll bar powder coated last week and need to pick it up.

I have a 5.0 block ready for the machine shop but first I need to buy the stroker kit. They will need the pistons before they bore the block.

I removed all the coolant plumping. I need to redesign it so it will work. I'm not sure I can install two 5/8" and a 1/2" pipe into the tunnel with the two AC hoses and the two 1 1/2' coolant pipe. That is the next thing to do.
I'm looking for 1 1/2" pipe, stainless or aluminum to replace some of the coolant lines. I would like to use Chuck's design. I'm afraid the stainless convoluted piping may be to restrictive. I'm ordering a aluminum high volume water plump to replace the cast iron unit that was in the car.
I removed the heater and air conditioning unit.
I also removed the radiator and all the AC hoses in the front last week. Checked everything and fixed what needed fixing and then installed the radiator and all the AC hoses.
Not much left on the chassis. Maybe it's now time to stop taking things off and put it back together.
Almost forgot I will have to remove the sill panel to get them painted.
Dwight
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Old 7th October 2013, 10:43 PM   #33
Dwight
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Jeff helping pull the 302 to make way for a 347.


ready to start putting everything back together

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Old 8th October 2013, 09:55 AM   #34
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Wink Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight,
Pretty ez to get the motor/tranny out when you have it that far apart!! ;o) If you are thinking about installing a cross-over tube between the two fuel tanks now would be a good time. The only other thing I can think of that's a pain to work on assembled is the pedal box and the steering column. I replaced my column and removed/repaired the RCR pedal box and it was a PIA with the car all together. I will be adding the fuel cross-over and a new pedal set when I tear it apart this winter.

Keep goin, Scott

P.S. Check your front lower control arm heims for play, I replaced mine with higher quality sealed units and that was no fun either!!!
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Last edited by cscott67; 8th October 2013 at 09:56 AM. Reason: added to ps
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Old 8th October 2013, 07:37 PM   #35
Dwight
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Smile Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Do you have any pictures of the cross over tube? Is the tube for air vent or fuel transfer? I have two pumps, one for transferring the fuel from the passenger side to the other tank.

Thanks Scott for the heads up.

Dwight
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Old 9th October 2013, 12:46 PM   #36
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Wink Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight,
The fuel transfer tube I was/am going to use will be AN style fuel line, probably 1-1.5". I was told a good place to install it would be behind the rear bulkhead in front of the motor. (I do not want to put it inside the cabin) I am going to get rid of one of the fill necks/caps so that I can fill both tanks from one side. There will be two breathers as well so they can equalize quickly.

That will also allow me to get rid of the crappy plastic valve (Pollack) mine is set up with to switch tanks. My car was set up with one fuel pump, and I prefer it that way.....less wiring, hoses etc..

That's the plan!! Anyway, let me know if/how you do it. Scott
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Old 9th October 2013, 05:06 PM   #37
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Re: Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight,
If your "breathers" are vents, you will need 4. one on each end. If on an incline it may be covered and any expansion will force fuel up the line. You will need a roll over valve on each side as well. Some are pressure set(very low) and will keep the vapors at bay. I can explain it better later on, at work.

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Old 14th October 2013, 09:40 PM   #38
Dwight
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I'm reworking the radiator hoses by replace the stainless steel flexible hose with aluminum and rubber from the radiator to the motor. My heater was plumbed incorrect so I have to rework it.


My question to those who have installed heaters, "how did you plumb the heater?"


Did you install two 5/8" hoses from the heater to the motor?


Did you use a high volume water pump?

Thanks Dwight


getting a little done every week.
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Old 24th October 2013, 08:28 PM   #39
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I received a call from Dale Schaller, Eight Stack Injection systems. I had emailed him asking about the t-stat for my injection system. He suggested a 195 degree stat.

We talked about my new motor and He answered many questions. During the conversation he ask how old my system was. I told him I though it was bought in 2008-2009. He told me they had greatly improved the linkage on the Eight Stack and ask if I wanted them to update my system for the cost of the parts. I'm shipping next week. They will go thru it and check the butterflies and all parts.

Great guy, gave me his phone number and told me to call even on the weekend if I had a question.

I did not buy the Dyno-Tec (Eight Stack now) system from him. It was bought from another company by the first owner of my GT 40. They have helped me in the pass with parts, information and DVDs.

If all companies operated like Eight Stack, we would truly be in heaven!
I'm very excited about this!
Thanks Dale

Dwight
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Old 29th October 2013, 09:08 PM   #40
Dwight
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I build a wood crate to ship my injection system back to Eight Stack today. The crate weight almost as much as the injection system.
Eight Stack is going to go thru and update everything on my system and return it to me. NOW I don't have to worry about any problems with the injection on a new motor.
I am going to order a new ECU from them because the one I received with the car is a budget unit.
I also found aluminum tubing in 6' length x 1/2" and 3/8" size so I can replace the rubber lines in tunnel. I will have to cut the 90 degree ends off the A.C. hoses and weld them onto the 6' lines. This will give me the room I need in the tunnel to add two 1/2" tubes for the heater. I bought a box of self-adhesive sound deadener / heat mat. I will wrap each tube with the mat and bundle all together then install in the tunnel, I hope!
Tomorrow I am going to a local machine shop (80 miles away) and show them my KEP flywheel to see if they can zero balance it before I order my forged stroker kit which is zero balance.
Slowly but surly I get there.
Dwight
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