Don's RCR 40 Build
- Thread starter Don Hoffman
- Start date
The dash is APITA, work going slow there. After stripping the chassie down I mounted the brake/clutch reservoir's, centered the stering colum, and wrapped the coolant lines then reinstalled in the spine. I Lizzard skined the chassie to keep some of the noise down I'm hope it works better than dyna mat that I put in the Lotus. I got the suspension rods back from the powder coater, and the billet suspension parts back from the anodizer. I now have a rolling chassie again.
Dash is now in third location as doors would not close dash roll bar issue
Body alignment
After reading all the issues with everyone having alignment issue's like the dash for me I just half way mounted the doors, front clip, spider and rear clip. Then used my motorcycle tie downs to hold the rear clip against the spider this leaves everything in a fluid state. Then using plenty of gorilla duct tape to hold everything in place I marked the spider rear location and tightened the rear clip hindges. I half way aligned the doors and front clip. I removed the body made a permanate mounting for the spider then reassembled the body and once again used tie down to secure the rear clip to the roll cage to reset the rear hindges. I thought this would take two weeks but only took two days.
Dash is now in third location as doors would not close dash roll bar issue
Body alignment
After reading all the issues with everyone having alignment issue's like the dash for me I just half way mounted the doors, front clip, spider and rear clip. Then used my motorcycle tie downs to hold the rear clip against the spider this leaves everything in a fluid state. Then using plenty of gorilla duct tape to hold everything in place I marked the spider rear location and tightened the rear clip hindges. I half way aligned the doors and front clip. I removed the body made a permanate mounting for the spider then reassembled the body and once again used tie down to secure the rear clip to the roll cage to reset the rear hindges. I thought this would take two weeks but only took two days.
Attachments
Thanks guys,
Jim I'm planning on the coyote boss motor not ordered yet, and the zf transaxle already ordered.
Jim I'm planning on the coyote boss motor not ordered yet, and the zf transaxle already ordered.
Nice. I considered using the coyote but I think it changes the exhaust setup quite a bit. I'm building a 67 shelby clone and the coyote will be the engine of choice. I had to remove the shock towers and "re-contour" the firewall to make it fit. Fran told me I should be getting the car in a few weeks. I opted for the 2" flares. I like that you will be a month or two ahead of me!
Issues, Issues, Issues
I wanted to use the Coyote Boss motor and the RBT ZF.
I now find out that Kennedy has only made one of these bell housings so far it went to Chip Foose, it took a special flywheel, clutch and transaxle input shaft as the bell housing is 3/4 inch shorter than normal.
Currently waiting on answers from Lloyd, hes checking with Foose
I have also been informed that the small block bell housing will work but since found out that the top two holes are same location, dowell pins same location but different sizes and none of the other holes line up.
Now I see why anyone who wanted to use this engine has given up!
anyone with info that could help on this subject?
I wanted to use the Coyote Boss motor and the RBT ZF.
I now find out that Kennedy has only made one of these bell housings so far it went to Chip Foose, it took a special flywheel, clutch and transaxle input shaft as the bell housing is 3/4 inch shorter than normal.
Currently waiting on answers from Lloyd, hes checking with Foose
I have also been informed that the small block bell housing will work but since found out that the top two holes are same location, dowell pins same location but different sizes and none of the other holes line up.
Now I see why anyone who wanted to use this engine has given up!
anyone with info that could help on this subject?
Update,
The motor and transaxle is now mounted.
The fuel level sensor was relocated to the front of the tank and the fuel pump is now located in the rear of the tank. I also added a angled dam inside the tank to trap fuel in the rear of the tank for hard braking.
Fuel system is recirculating type with a return line. I didn't want to use the valve that I see the others have used to return fuel back to the same tank. I have mounted the fuel regulator just above each tank and return line is short about 5 inches also returns to the dam area of tank. In the pressure line after the requlator will be a check valve from each tank then a tee fitting into the ford fuel rail.
Ford wire harness was stripped down and reconfigured for a mid engine.
currently working on the non ford wire harness for every thing else.
The motor and transaxle is now mounted.
The fuel level sensor was relocated to the front of the tank and the fuel pump is now located in the rear of the tank. I also added a angled dam inside the tank to trap fuel in the rear of the tank for hard braking.
Fuel system is recirculating type with a return line. I didn't want to use the valve that I see the others have used to return fuel back to the same tank. I have mounted the fuel regulator just above each tank and return line is short about 5 inches also returns to the dam area of tank. In the pressure line after the requlator will be a check valve from each tank then a tee fitting into the ford fuel rail.
Ford wire harness was stripped down and reconfigured for a mid engine.
currently working on the non ford wire harness for every thing else.
Cooling system,
The factory ford return radiator hose connection will not clear the fire wall and will need rerouted.
I have seen several of the fabricated coolant tanks here but being a lotus owner where less is better, I am going to try to eliminate it?
The top of the motor is the highest part of the cooling system so I am thinking of welding a 6 inch stack on top of the water neck for the radiator cap. If this works the stack will be the reservoir and I will only need a small overflow/burp tank.
Anyone see any issues with this idea?
Ford supplied the coolant flow diagram for the motor
The factory ford return radiator hose connection will not clear the fire wall and will need rerouted.
I have seen several of the fabricated coolant tanks here but being a lotus owner where less is better, I am going to try to eliminate it?
The top of the motor is the highest part of the cooling system so I am thinking of welding a 6 inch stack on top of the water neck for the radiator cap. If this works the stack will be the reservoir and I will only need a small overflow/burp tank.
Anyone see any issues with this idea?
Ford supplied the coolant flow diagram for the motor
