Renato's GT40 MkI Coyote

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Hello to all.
Time to start my build thread.
My kit choice is GT-Forte with Ford Coyote 5.0 and Audi 01E.
Kit arrived and filled up the garage pretty good. I need more space!
Now it is time to start work. My goal is two years, hmmm.
I'll try to post lot of pictures, I'm not great at keyboard.

Forum is a great place with experienced and knowledged people and would like to thank everyone contributing to the build.

Renato
 

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Great stuff Renato. Good Luck with your build. Don't be shy about asking anything of this group, they really know there stuff.
 
An optimistic schedule, good luck!
Don't worry about the keyboard, just go for lots of pictures.

Anything you need help with just shout, very helpful bunch here. :)
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Jimmy, thanks. Yes, definitely will ask...

David, you should have seen my budget. I already went over...:laugh:
I figure, if I'm going to set a goal why not make it interesting.
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Chassis
Got all the fiberglass off the chassis and turned it around for the bottom pan install.
 

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Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Engine
The engine I got is a 2012 Ford Mustang-Coyote 5.0 with 412 Hp out of the box. I'm planing to use Ford Motorsports Computer M-6017-A504V to make things as simple as possible. I need to turn the intake around. Any advice on this?

Renato
 

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Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Chassis
I used Milwaukee sheet metal power shears for strait cuts. Not good at cutting radius so I used a Jigsaw. Finished with a file and 3M Scotch pad.
For spacing rivet holes I used a fan spacing tool. IMO great tool to invest in if you are doing a lot of riveting.
Now, the sheet needs to be prepped for adhesive and riveted. I called 3M and they recommended Scotch-Weld epoxy adhesive DP420 for the application with EPX Plus System applicator. Epoxy has a 20 minute working time so it's going to be a drag race :laugh:

Renato
 

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Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Chassis
Any thoughts on covering the bottom of engine bay?
If yes, did you guys use riv-nuts or tapped holes directly to frame?


Renato
 

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I plan on doing it.

I would not have any 'open' holes on the bottom of the car into the chassis, either drilled/tapped or rivnuts. Not sure what your weather is like but that's asking for rot here in the UK!

I plan on running the bottom sheet over the inside of the engine 'hole' and then joggle a flange with rivnuts so that a panel can be flush over the bottom.

As its a bit late for you to go down that route but you could stick some angle to the inside of the frame rails flush with the bottom of them and stick rivnuts in along with a panel that overlaps with the chassis where you've left the gap.
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Hi David,

Not sure if you see on the picture but I left half of chassis rail uncovered around the engine bay so that I can have a flush cover.

Renato
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Glad to see another build thread here...

Personally I don't think I would panel off the bottom of the engine bay. While it may keep it marginally cleaner of road debris, it would give you a cuple of other challenges;
1) it will still collect any debris entering the engine bay from under the rear clip and would be a bear to clean out without removing that panel.
2) it will reduce the amount of airflow through the engine bay and out the vents which may cause temperatures under the clip to really soar! It's already too hot in there as we have read everything from sagging lexan and fiberglass to bubbled paint...

Some guys have even added auxilliary cooling fans to circulate even more air.
 
Hi Renato,

Good to see you are off to a good start. My 2 cents on the engine bay cover. I am going to cover the bottom of that area and then leave as little a hole as possible for the suspension. I may even try putting boots over those parts. Then I think putting one or two fans in back on temp controled switches seperate from the key so that even after shutting down the car and walking away if it's over temp the fans will keep going until the temps come down.

By the way.... interesting platform lift you are useing. Could you tell us what it is? I am working in a single car garage and thought about a motorcycle lift. Harbor freight has them on sale right now with $250.00 off. Doesn't take up a lot of space and will do the job until the drive train goes in. Any one else want to comment?
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Richard - I tried the Harbor Fright motorcycle lift and it worked fine until I stuck a dummy block and transaxle in the car. The lift's hydraulics would not raise the platform any longer.

Click on my build site and the look at TOOLS to see what I had. It is now gone and I am using a fixed dolly..
 
Thanks for the info Randy. I was planning on fabing some supports so once up the piston would not take the load and make it safer to go under. I also have another piston and hydrolic pump but don't want to make something from scratch... I'm already way behind on my build and get on with it. I'll go take look at your build... have a good one... rt
 
Renalto,

Did the milwaukee shear leave a useable edge or did you have to do a lot of dressing after the cuts? The sheet metal is what I worry about the most. I wan the project to look nice and the panels are the first thing folks see when the clips come up. Keep up the good work and I"ll keep watching... rt
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Randy:
I was thinking along the same lines as you. I just like the look of a clean belly. Maybe, as you and Richard suggested, the solution is fans with a thermostat. Cake and eat it too...:thumbsup:
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Richard,

The lift that I'm using is a industrial heavy duty 1500 LBS lift. I used it as a motorcycle lift and now it is doing a great job of saving my back. It goes up about 5 feet and has steel wheels so I can roll it around. Very stable! You might find something like this in used industrial equipment place. Try "hydraulic scissor lift table" in Google.

Shears leave decent edge, all I did to finish it was a bit of sandpaper and scotch pad. The problem is they don't do inside corners well so I finished them with jig saw. They cut quick,easy and quiet! I did cut upside down so that the visible edge is on the bottom of the cut.

Renato
 

Renato

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Skip,

Nice to hear from you again.
Thanks for the offer. You can also stop by and see the project anytime.

Renato
 
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