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Old 25th December 2017, 11:18 AM   #21
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lobelsteve
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

On to the pedals. Mine came with a wrong part from Wilwood in the right box from Fran. So an adapter was needed. WIL-220-3406 Adapter or can get the banjo bolt adapter.

For pedal mounting, I was going to bolt to floor. Have not yet drilled the holes as I am not certain of final position yet. Plenty of time for that. Why not just tap the pedal mounting holes and thread bolts through bottom of chassis?



Looks factory. Used M10-1.5. Could even tap chassis floor, loctite the whole thing down.

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Old 25th December 2017, 11:27 AM   #22
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Engine should be here in 2 weeks or so. I am thinking there is room to make compartments on both sides behind the cockpit. I have 36"x36" aluminum diamond tread at .072 thick. I have seen others do similar with flat sheet aluminum. Here are my drawings:





On the driver's side I will mount the surge tank to floor panel and the fuel system on the vertical panel. I can notch and bend down the front of the floor panel 1/4" to act as a cooling scoop for the area.

Spent far too long figuring out how I am going to cut the panels. I have circular saw, jig saw, chop saw. Could buy a table saw or take it to a metal fab shop to shear it perfect. Decided if it is going to be my car, it will be my work as much as possible. This is going to be a racing pig up close, and hopefully a stunner at 10 feet. Circular saw it is.



Will mark with sharpie, lay down tape, and clamp to workbench with 2"x2"x48" angle iron as an edg to keep saw straight.
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Old 25th December 2017, 01:24 PM   #23
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Add WD40 to the cut line and keep the bade fairly shallow for the best finish, you will be surprised how good it can look.

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Old 25th December 2017, 05:32 PM   #24
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Thanks H. Got busy on brake lines, not pretty, and sure they will leak to start. But wanted all this stuff together. Arrows pointing to the black connectors on valves, brake switch and starter interlock clutch switch next to each other. Drilled holes for reservoirs, but will go with black line instead of red that came with Wilwoods.

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Old 28th December 2017, 06:49 PM   #25
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Made some spaces to hang a fuel system and a surge tank. My old Skilsaw died during the cuts. Under $50 for a Ryobi. And it is way better than my dad's old circular saw. A light sanding of the edges on a belt sander, and I will use die grinder for smoothing out the cutouts. Then it will be clamp, drill, tap. Then place the pumps, filters, surge tank. Then take it apart to mount everything. Then measure fuel hoses. Then press on the AN hose ends. A lot of thens. But anytime something gets done, it feels so good.

Surge tank plate. Will bend down front edge to act as an air scoop for cooling.



Driver side panels just laying there.



Passenger side. I'm sure I will have to stuff to go here. Or the engine will make these panels come off.

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Old 1st January 2018, 08:19 PM   #26
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

12/25-12/31. Fuel panel fabrication. Surge tank with 3 rivnuts 1/4x20. Bosch with 2 rivnuts 1/4x20 and FPR with 2x 10-24 cap screws. KRC filter and Walbro mounted to bottom panel with 4 clamps and rivnuts 1/4x20. Once system mounted, line made -6AN to connect components as well as female to female -6AN swivels. Panels held on with 10-32 button head screws (8 on each panel).
1/1/18: Brakes: Mounted brackets and all hard lines. Kept rear passenger loose to allow movement of cooling pipes through tunnel.
Mounted pedals to floor. Ran low pressure lines through firewall. Installed parking brake cables, assembled parking brake lever.
Body: mounted heat shield inside footwell. Seat to brackets. 7/16x20 bolts, nuts, washers.
Ran cooling pipes under tank in sleeves. Needed to soap up sleeves and slide tank and pipe at same time.
Mounted shifter with 4 x 1/4x20 rivnuts. Tank clearance issues with rivnuts in tunnel, insulation on pipes. Needed to soap up everything to slide it home.













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Old 1st January 2018, 08:21 PM   #27
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread







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Old 1st January 2018, 08:23 PM   #28
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Upcoming:
1. Seam seal the rear bulkhead then heat shield the whole rear.
2. Drill bulkhead for parking brake cables, drill for harness mounts.
3. Complete brake system: run ss lines, mount front clip and reservoirs, clamp low pressure lines. Bleed brakes.
4. Run parking brake cables and adjust into lever. Need 3/8” x 3/4” long bolts x4
5. Install throttle linkage to pedal and adjust.
6. Install front clip and run coolant lines. Bead line ends.
7. Passenger seat to floor with 4x 3/8 nuts/bolts/washers.
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Old 1st January 2018, 08:28 PM   #29
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

You've been busy Steve.
Can you text me your number, i seem to have lost it.
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Old 1st January 2018, 08:45 PM   #30
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Great progress Steve. Wish I had my car. Can't wait to get started after watching yours, H's and H's other build.
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Old 7th January 2018, 07:57 PM   #31
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Seat bracket to seat is 7/16Χ20 1". It was drilled out from 3/8. *Bracket to floor is 3/8” x 3/4" for passenger seat. *Driver's bracket to slider is 5/16-18. Drivers seat spacers between bracket and slider will be 3/8" thick, 1” wide- can drill, tap, thread, or weld in place if going with 3/8" plate. *6 point harness mounts with eye bolts. *6 per seat. *7/16-20 thread between 1 and 2.75” long, depending if going through 1/4" aluminum or 2" channel aluminum. This depends on seat position for both seats. Shoulder belts 10 degree below shoulder, but should clear seat without rubbing. *Lap belts from behind seat to even with hips (45-80 degrees from horizontal). *Sub belts mount 2” rearward of opening and 4-6” apart.


1/6/18*Completed brake system: run ss lines. *Just need to tighten all fittings. *Installed throttle linkage to pedal and adjusted. *1/4x20 1” and 2” bolts with flats and nylocks. *Fabricated throttle arm between pedal and DBW system. *1/4-28 threaded rod cut to about 9”, rod ends, jam nuts. *Completed fuel panels. *Used 1/4” rubber isolator behind FPR and 10-28 cap screws with nylocks.

To get:*
3/8x24 x 1.5” for seat
5/16-18 1” x4 for seat bracket to slider. With washers/nylocks. Get 3/8” thick by 1” wide plate to weld to bracket.

1/7/18:
1. Drill bulkhead for parking brake cables.
2. Mounted parking brake to floor.
3. Removed front springs to send to RCR, lift kit ships soon.
4. Install front clip and run coolant lines. *Bead line ends.*Mount reservoirs, clamp low pressure lines.

Upcoming:
1. Seam seal the rear bulkhead then heat shield the whole rear. *
2. Run parking brake cables and adjust into lever. *
3. Passenger seat to floor with 4x 3/8 nuts/bolts/washers/plates. Drivers seat spacers between bracket and slider.* 3/8” thick, 1” wide- can drill, tap, thread or weld.
4. Clean bad weld on column and test.
5. Bolt in gas tank through tunnel.
6. Drill for harness mounts eye bolts (7/16-20 and come in 1” to 2.75” lengths)

Parts pending: ISIS system, lift system.
Parts shipped: engine/transaxle. Should be here 1/11/18.

Still out there: HVAC, electrical, suspension tightening.
Change of plans: Get the new shifter.











Have not tightened down the clamps yet. I'm sure it is coming out again and again.
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Old 7th January 2018, 08:34 PM   #32
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Why do the front springs need to go back to RCR? I enjoy watching your progress. You guys are doing all this great work on the GT-R without a build manual so these build logs really help all the builders.
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Old 7th January 2018, 09:05 PM   #33
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

They shipped springs to get the car to be a roller. Lift kits were on back order and use different springs.
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Old 7th January 2018, 09:06 PM   #34
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbob View Post
Why do the front springs need to go back to RCR? I enjoy watching your progress. You guys are doing all this great work on the GT-R without a build manual so these build logs really help all the builders.


They shipped the kidt with springs to get it loaded and delivered. The lift kits were on backorder and come with different Springs.
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Old 12th January 2018, 07:53 PM   #35
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Hoping to mount lift kit this weekend. Maybe get some firewall/bulkhead heat treatment and seam sealing done. But my motor and Graz showed up. So much to play with. Oil tank and line on order. Will need more heat shield....











Motor is LS7, Dailey dry sump. Ordered Peterson tank. Waiting on motor brackets to test fit.
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Old 19th January 2018, 07:15 PM   #36
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Is this the correct assembly order? Not silver washer between spring and lift spacer.



Here is the tank, went with 2.5gal. Might need to go smaller if I cannot get engine stuffed in there with all lines, wires, and accessories.



Pardon the heat shield. It is base coat. Going to get some lava mat over the top of this.

Last edited by lobelsteve; 19th January 2018 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 4th February 2018, 08:17 AM   #37
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Recap:

12/25-1/1. Fuel panel fabrication. Surge tank with 3 rivnuts 1/4x20. Bosch with 2 rivnuts 1/4x20 and FPR with 2x 10-24 cap screws. KRC filter and Walbro mounted to bottom panel with 4 clamps and rivnuts 1/4x20. Once system mounted, line made -6AN to connect components as well as female to female -6AN swivels. Panels held on with 10-32 button head screws (8 on each panel).
1/1/18: Brakes: Mounted brackets and all hard lines. Kept rear passenger loose to allow movement of cooling pipes through tunnel.
Mounted pedals to floor. Ran low pressure lines through firewall. Installed parking brake cables, assembled parking brake lever.
Body: mounted heat shield inside footwell. Seat to brackets. 7/16x20 bolts, nuts, washers.
Ran cooling pipes under tank in sleeves. Needed to soap up sleeves and slide tank and pipe at same time. Tank clearance issues with rivnuts in tunnel, insulation on pipes. Mounted shifter with 4 x 1/4x20 rivnuts.
1/6/18 Completed brake system: ran ss lines. Just need to tighten all fittings. Installed throttle linkage to pedal and adjust. 1/4x20 1” and 2” bolts with flats and nylocks. Fabricated throttle arm between pedal and DBW system. 1/4-28 threaded rod cut to about 9”, rod ends, jam nuts. Completed fuel panels. Used 1/4” rubber isolator behind FPR and 10-28 cap screws with nylocks.
1/7/18: Drilled bulkhead for parking brake cables, Run parking brake cables and adjust into lever. Need to route once engine in. Installed front clip and run coolant lines. Bead line ends. Mount reservoirs, clamp low pressure lines.

1/18/18 Seam seal the rear bulkhead then heat shield the whole rear. Drill for harness mounts. Use flat bolt-in mounts for shoulders and sub, 1” angle to make brackets (2 per seat) for lap. Ordered 12 bolt ins. Passenger seat to floor with 4x 3/8 nuts/bolts/washers/plates. Drivers seat spacers between bracket and slider. spacer welded in. If still wobbly when bolted in, will remove seat adjuster and go with extra holes in floor and plugs.
1/20/18. Lift kit mounted. Used 1/4-20 bolts for reservoir and pump. Pump to fiberglass floor with thin rubber pad. Fittings simple. Diagram at ramliftpro.com and Allans videos. Finished first coat of stick on heat shield to rear bulkhead. Drilled all harness belt holes. Made 1 mistake by not checking rear before drilling front. Wound up inside frame rail. Using bolt on mounts so nothing but 1/2" holes. Took out rivnuts for shifter as upgrading to new style. They were 1mm from tank so would recommend to avoid or to shorten tank legs 2mm. Tank sat slightly higher as I did put edge guard on legs for vibration damping.
1/28/18 Slotted tank bolt holes, bolted in tank. Fabricated 12 harness bolt plates, Made bracket for oil tank. Ran heater hose under tunnel, 5/8” 15 foot long x2. Bolted on alternator and starter. 4mm of washers to mount alternator directly to block. Alternator Part No.8301AN from Advanced. 160AMP Carquest for 2010 Silverado 1500LT

LS7 engine mount bolts M10-1.5-25mm (10.9) x6, M12-1.5 50mm x2 for motor mount with 2 nuts. 3/8 x 3” x4 for crossmember
ARP Header Bolts 134-1101 are M8-1.25x25mm
Collector gaskets: GM15272179
Header gasket: GM 594171

2/3/18
Going to caress my oil tank mount to make sure it is as close to frame rail and bulk head as possible. Got the LS lift plates per http://www.gt40s.com/forum/517843-post613.html as my home made brackets too thin and just bent in towards manifold. Hope to lift engine and Graz in today to get cross member drilled. Then I can see where other stuff can start fitting.

Returned bolt in harness mounts to Summit. The bolt ins are already on the harnesses. Duh. Returned Peterson oil tank 08-0008 2.5gal for the 08-0009 3 gal. Dry Sump Oil Tank 3 Gallon - Peterson Fluid Systems

Here is my photoshopped AC compressor:


Hoping I can make this work: LS / GEN III HIGH MOUNT AC COMPRESSOR BRACKET KIT

Here is the correct oil tank for LS dry sump, not yet on bracket, just leaning.



And like Kurtiss, but less fancy. I just need to slip on grommets for protection.


Last edited by lobelsteve; 4th February 2018 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 4th February 2018, 08:34 AM   #38
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

And I made this spreadsheet from several sources. Was annoyed at having to print so many pages and then look for them. Bolt size, wrench size, lubed torque values.
Attached Files
File Type: xls Bolt reference.xls (55.5 KB, 8 views)
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Old 4th February 2018, 09:48 AM   #39
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Just reading through your post Car Looks mega my friend,your doing a great job ,but please take the steering boss to be welded properly it’s easy to do at this stage and you will never need to think about it again ,just trying to help please don’t think I’m trying to be a busybody

Regards mark
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Old 4th February 2018, 10:12 AM   #40
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Re: Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Hi Steve, I have this tank mount that I made when I was going to run a dry sump, now surplus to requirement and yours if you want it, it fits just where you are putting your tank. If you want to swing by and pick it up and Ill weld your column up at the same time.
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