Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Supporter
And so it begins....
1st contact with Fran 2012 via email. Joined here in 2013. Set on SLC then, bolstered by Stacey David's Gearz. Got serious a year ago and started emailing Fran again. Visited H-Craft's shop and sat in SLC and his just arrived GT-R. Sold on GT-R over SLC at that time because cockpit was huge compared to the SLC. Ordered in March, arriving today. Plan on 16 months to build, sticking as much as I can to the base. No interior, no fancy stuff. I will reach out to the board often and have several threads saved on my computer. Disappointed most of the pictures went away with Photobucket. I am heading out for a week as soon as car gets tucked away off trailer (and photo shoot). Figuring on nothing but project management, deconstruction, and inventory for 2 weeks when I get back. Excited to get ziplock bags, sharpies, labels, etc.
 

Ron McCall

Supporter
Welcome Steve! The GT-R is quite an amazing piece. I have two in the shop at the moment. If i can assist in any way,please let me know.
Ron
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Umm, I did have an LS7 and Graziano. Maybe ships separately?
 

Attachments

  • 20171118_183216.jpg
    20171118_183216.jpg
    584.9 KB · Views: 1,411

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Just unwrapping the car and doing inventory. Awaiting a few items on back order including lift kit, infinity system, wiper motor. Kit comes with digital inventory for shipping purposes. Does not come with a build manual. Thank goodness for this site. Engine and trans on way.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
5Day 3 in garage. Car fully stripped. Tank out and put on edge moulding, heat shield. Tapped fuel sender. Sender too long. Emailed Fran. Turns out it is trim to fit. Welded adapter to column. Wrapped clutch and brake hard lines under tank. Used rivnut tool in tank legs. Too tough. 3 of 4 went ok. One needed drill out and larger size. Too much pressure. Must get better tips on using tool.

tfp3D9t.jpg


e1ulgsw.jpg


fmIyAdt.jpg
 
Last edited:

Steven Lobel

Supporter
wasv1nu.jpg


So that is done. #10-24 tap and 1.5" stainless screws with a drop of removable threadlock.

Looking at parking brake. If I use 2 washers, the bracket lines up perfect. Rotor is tightened down. Am I missing something? Or is it ok to add these washers so when I drill and tap the suspension arm I have good purchase and not on the edge?

Without:

rcDunca.jpg


With:

wzUHsEB.jpg
 
I had the same issue. I used washers to make sure the threads for mounting the parking caliper were in the most solid area available and there was not parking caliper pad pressure on the rotor when the parking brake was not engaged. The washers are the least compromise of all the options.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Taking some of the confusion out of fuel system, I brought all the supplied pieces inside and took a look at Fuel System — SL-C Wiki and Fuel System Kit — Superlite Cars

So I laid out the basic parts on an ottoman.

tfLKGT9.jpg


And then there are the rest of the fittings:

KBF8FcK.jpg


This cute little guy might go on the gas tank:

fqLOVGH.jpg


I still need to link all the parts together with the fuel line. I also have to get a fuel pickup tube, tank vent, and tank fittings for return line, and filler. Anyone got part numbers or sizes for the fittings on the tank?

Fuel Tank Pickup Tube

This part looks like the pickup and would hopefully be right size for fitting on tank.
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Hi Steve,
Welcome to the family!

Like Mark, I drilled into the web and machined spacers to center the emergency brake caliper over the rotor.
 

Attachments

  • A03B6217.jpg
    A03B6217.jpg
    391.1 KB · Views: 1,253
  • A03B6219.jpg
    A03B6219.jpg
    498.5 KB · Views: 1,057

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
The fuel tank return fitting is a 3/8" NPT; the supply is a 1/2" NPT. For clearance, I had to use 90 deg elbows. 3/8" and 1/2" aluminum 5052 tubing was epoxied into the fittings as shown. After the lines were fabricated and the sending unit sealed, I filled the tank with 5 gallons of solvent to leak check the fittings and flush the tank. All was good.
 

Attachments

  • A03B6224.jpg
    A03B6224.jpg
    397.3 KB · Views: 1,076
  • A03B6228.jpg
    A03B6228.jpg
    272.4 KB · Views: 971
  • A03B6229.jpg
    A03B6229.jpg
    243.7 KB · Views: 964

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Spent the day installing the emergency brake calipers. Able to do it on car, but just 1mm off or 1 degree angle difference between holes makes it a chore. Between grinding the bracket to suspension holes 1-2mm and adjusting the washers between bracket and calipers it now works smoothly.
 

Attachments

  • 20171210_135800-1024x1024.jpg
    20171210_135800-1024x1024.jpg
    202 KB · Views: 1,002
  • 20171210_135752-1024x1024.jpg
    20171210_135752-1024x1024.jpg
    252 KB · Views: 1,050

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Slow going. Just laying out any of the systems is a daunting task. Glad this forum is here.

In my kit I got a Wilwood box saying 260-10374. It contained: Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-13621
Trying to figure out why the supplied 90 degree elbow fits in two of the three master cylinders is infuriating. And the part itself is labelled 3/8 24 while the others are 1/8 27.
So not much progress other than buying parts and tools so I can do it right. Or as close to right as I can make it. Will order a banjo bolt or adapter to the braided line.

Any and all help greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • 2017-12-17 18.48.11.jpg
    2017-12-17 18.48.11.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 899
  • 2017-12-17 19.04.59.jpg
    2017-12-17 19.04.59.jpg
    461.1 KB · Views: 992
  • 2017-12-17 19.05.31.jpg
    2017-12-17 19.05.31.jpg
    53.6 KB · Views: 935

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Taking some of the confusion out of fuel system, I brought all the supplied pieces inside and took a look at Fuel System — SL-C Wiki and Fuel System Kit — Superlite Cars


This cute little guy might go on the gas tank:

fqLOVGH.jpg

So the Bosch 61944 fuel pump comes with an M18 on one side with M18 to -10 adapter. The little blue guy is the M10 to -6 adapter. You have to remove the banjo fitting out of the end first. I'd say 3 hours of learning and figuring out to every 15 min of labor so far. It looks like the fuel system needs two -8 to -6 adapters and comes with one. From the top of the surge tank is -8 and the gas tank outlet is -8. Am I looking at this wrong? Here is my diagram for the fuel system layout:
 

Attachments

  • Fuel sys diagram.jpeg
    Fuel sys diagram.jpeg
    44.4 KB · Views: 1,064

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
So the Bosch 61944 fuel pump comes with an M18 on one side with M18 to -10 adapter. The little blue guy is the M10 to -6 adapter. You have to remove the banjo fitting out of the end first. I'd say 3 hours of learning and figuring out to every 15 min of labor so far. It looks like the fuel system needs two -8 to -6 adapters and comes with one. From the top of the surge tank is -8 and the gas tank outlet is -8. Am I looking at this wrong? Here is my diagram for the fuel system layout:

Hi
I think you have a "pinch point" on your system
The Fuel flow into the surge tank should probably be a lot bigger than a -6 fitting. High flow at low pressure = larger diameter pipe.
All the fuel consumed has to go through this fitting and this to my eyes would be a restriction.

Ian
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Hi
I think you have a "pinch point" on your system
The Fuel flow into the surge tank should probably be a lot bigger than a -6 fitting. High flow at low pressure = larger diameter pipe.
All the fuel consumed has to go through this fitting and this to my eyes would be a restriction.

Ian

Thanks. This is the system that comes with the car. I just want to make sure I have it laid out in the right order before cutting hose.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Slowly getting a few things rolling.

Have to get seat on brackets to sit in car and figure out where shifter goes, where pedals go, etc. So first is to weld on the steering column adapter. And I'm not skilled like the folks here. I did not know the smooth piece on the end of the column was screwed on, so I welded the wrong side first, yup- the side closest to the end. Then as I was testing my weld, it unscrewed. So I welded the other end with lots of tape over the plastic.

53C8XAA.jpg


Bottom view

zBkr0q5.jpg


As close to plastic tab I could get

w5wAN3d.jpg


Top view

6SsSpH0.jpg


Passenger side view

C0leGHT.jpg


Not as much welding as sticking metal together ( I hope ). If it fails with steering wheel on and wheels on ground, I will take it to a pro.


Then I bought 7/16" bolts for seats to brackets. And used a drill press to open up those holes on the bracket so they would fit. Seat is loosely assembled (and bolts in backwards) to check. 7/16" x 1" with 2 flat and 1 lock washer works well. (x8)

YcOKEAP.jpg


I purchased the Astro 1442 like most of the threads suggest. McMaster Carr rivnuts work well, the rivnuts that came with the tool are junk.

Needed to get shifter placed so laid it on paper on workbench and marked holes. Then placed on location and used punch to mark and then drill.

hFKeTIW.jpg


z6L1v8z.jpg


VDTd2z3.jpg


Those 1/4 - 20 rivnuts look awfully close to the tank height. especially with the edge moulding/sliders on tank legs. But it fits. Tested it after first rivnut placed in case it didn't fit, less to fix.

j43Lwix.jpg


TVYUlWE.jpg
 
Back
Top