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11-11-04, 04:39 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | brettmcc 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Essex, UK GT40: RSGTD
Posts: 1,319
Rep Power: 20  | Cooling Pipes Has anyone got something that can do pipe beading for cooling pipes etc? I don't fancy paying Earls £70+VAT per die, or Frosts £400+ for a generic one. If not, has anyone got any suggestions to put a bead or something similar into stop hoses blowing off?
Brett |
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11-11-04, 04:59 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | p thompson Administrator 
Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Milland, West S GT40: None
Posts: 2,154
| Re: Cooling Pipes Hi Brett
Speak to Roy Smart - he has a neat trick using a ball-pein hammer and dolly or anvil as I recall.
Alternatively - how about a bead of weld around the pipe, or failing that - 'Evo-Stick' - sounds mad but I'm told it works very well. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] |
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11-11-04, 05:03 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | A Tenth 
Join Date: Jul 2004 GT40: Silicon Valley
Posts: 121
Rep Power: 6  | Re: Cooling Pipes In the U.S. we have conduit benders that are pretty cheap and available at the local hardware shop. Depending on the material you are using for the tubes, that might work well.
If your wall thickness is too small for a smooth bend, try filling the tube with water, then freeze the water. That will support the inside of the tube when you bend it.
I have seen a little hand held bead roller for tubes, but I'm not sure how much it cost or where to get one, sorry. |
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11-11-04, 05:11 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | PDub 6 Tenths 
Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: London, UK GT40: Tornado
Posts: 647
Rep Power: 12  | Re: Cooling Pipes If you use copper pipes its easy to put a solder ridge a half inch before the end of the pipe. |
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11-11-04, 05:35 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | BenL 6 Tenths 
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: USA
Posts: 680
Rep Power: 11  | Re: Cooling Pipes [ QUOTE ]
If your wall thickness is too small for a smooth bend, try filling the tube with water, then freeze the water. That will support the inside of the tube when you bend it.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've never tried bending tubes, but I've heard the suggestion of filling the tubes with sand before bending them. |
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11-11-04, 05:43 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | A Tenth 
Join Date: Jul 2004 GT40: Silicon Valley
Posts: 121
Rep Power: 6  | Re: Cooling Pipes With ice you don't have to worry about sand in your shoes. |
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11-11-04, 06:01 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Brian Magee Bronze Supporter 
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Newbury England GT40: GTD
Posts: 437
Rep Power: 12  | Re: Cooling Pipes Brett
A simple way to stop pipes from sliding off under pressure is to put three pop rivets equally spaced around the tube about 1/4" from the end to act as a bead. I have done this a few times with no problems.
Brian. |
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11-11-04, 06:15 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | brettmcc 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Essex, UK GT40: RSGTD
Posts: 1,319
Rep Power: 20  | Re: Cooling Pipes Dan,
Sent you a message last week did it get to you?
Brett |
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11-11-04, 07:10 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Chris Edwards 2 Tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Winchester UK GT40: Winchester, Eng
Posts: 252
Rep Power: 9  | Re: Cooling Pipes Brett
I have a contact at the company that makes all the pipes for JCB's and they do the beading you are talking about.
They are in Blandford. Dorset. Let me know if want me to arrange |
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11-11-04, 09:12 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | A Tenth 
Join Date: Jul 2004 GT40: Silicon Valley
Posts: 121
Rep Power: 6  | Re: Cooling Pipes email sent |
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11-12-04, 08:14 AM
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#11 (permalink)
| | delaneyp Peter D 
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Sydney, Australia GT40: DRB #27
Posts: 1,238
Rep Power: 21  | Re: Cooling Pipes Brett, I finally settled on a local exhaust shop for the coolant pipes - they were able to do all the bends (either with pre-made mandrell bends (perfect) welded together, or with a pipe bender (a little stretched & narrowed, but functional).
For the pipe ends, the have a flairing device on their pipe bender machine & I got them to put a small flair about 1/4" along the pipe & to increase the pipe dia by about 1/8". Its not hard to slip the rubber pipe over this small lip & once you put a hose clamp behind, it has no chance of blowing off. Cheap & easy !
Kind Regards,
Peter D. |
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11-13-04, 01:47 PM
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#12 (permalink)
| | 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jun 2002 GT40: San Francisco Bay Area California USA
Posts: 1,884
Rep Power: 25  | Re: Cooling Pipes You can wrap 8 gauge copper single strand wire around the end of the tube a couple of times and then silver sodder it in place. Simple and easy. |
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11-14-04, 11:03 AM
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#13 (permalink)
| | llarsen Admin 
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC GT40: Sabre
Posts: 2,073
Rep Power: 29   | Re: Cooling Pipes Bret,
Eastwoods has a couple of bead rollers. The cheaper ($239) of the two is seen here:
To check out the the other one ($399) or other Eastwood products check out the Eastwood Website.
Regards,
Lynn |
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11-17-04, 05:47 PM
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#14 (permalink)
| | hoverducky Rookie 
Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Oakland, CA GT40: Gt40 Replication, Ltd. (NZ)
Posts: 62
Rep Power: 8  | Re: Cooling Pipes Slip a narrow ring of like material over the tube and tack weld or braze?
Scott |
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11-17-04, 09:48 PM
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#15 (permalink)
| | Gold Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2002 GT40: Houston, Texas
Posts: 678
Rep Power: 13  | Re: Cooling Pipes Howard, I like your idea. Does it stay put? I was thinking of paying someone to put a weld bead on my aluminum pipe, but if your idea works, I'll have some extra beer money. |
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11-17-04, 11:24 PM
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#16 (permalink)
| | Phil 3 Tenths 
Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: New Jersey GT40: scratch built Mk1
Posts: 351
Rep Power: 8  | Re: Cooling Pipes Brett
I always use aluminum conduit for water tubes, it bends nicely with one on those cheapo pipe benders since conduit comes in the same generic sizes as schedule pipe. Also, for those really tight bends one can purchase aluminum elbows in 45 and 90 degree turns, the radius on these is about 2 1/2" on centerline, and they will really fit those tight places. You can cut the aluminum tubes with a medium sized tubing cutter, or even a wood cutting band saw works well, just spray a little WD40 or equiv in the blade and you are off to the races. The aluminum conduit is nice and soft, bens easily without kinks, and can be purchased at any electrical supply. The aluminum elbows we use come from an architectural supply house (railings and related fittings), and I believe they run about $6.00 ea, pretty cheap!. As far as the bead at the end of the tube, I have seen a tool similar to a bead roller that beads up the ends of the tubes and prevents the splices from sliding off, this is particularly important when using silicone hose. Also if you are using silicone hose make sure the clamps have an inner shield to prevent the silicone hose from extruding thru the slots in the clamp.
Good Luck
Phil |
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11-18-04, 09:07 AM
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#17 (permalink)
| | nota2266 Lifetime Premier Supporter 
Join Date: May 2004 GT40: Kurrajong, Australia
Posts: 358
Rep Power: 8  | Re: Cooling Pipes It is called a Crox tool. The small handle pushes a ball bearing out into the tube as the tool is rotated with the larger handle. The Depth into the tube is adjustable. The outer adjustable sleeve is touching the ball in the photo. ( it is spring loaded). One tool does one size tube. Dont know whether or not you can still buy them. I have from 5/8 to 2" |
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11-18-04, 10:48 AM
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#18 (permalink)
| | Gold Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2002 GT40: Houston, Texas
Posts: 678
Rep Power: 13  | Re: Cooling Pipes I know Earl's sells that type of tool, but nothing for 2". Did a web search for Crox with no luck, so no good there. |
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11-18-04, 10:58 AM
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#19 (permalink)
| | brettmcc 10 tenths 
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Essex, UK GT40: RSGTD
Posts: 1,319
Rep Power: 20  | Re: Cooling Pipes Pat,
Earl's sell individual dies, here in the UK they are 70 + 17.5% tax for the 1 1/2. A complete kit is over 400.
Brett |
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11-18-04, 11:10 AM
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#20 (permalink)
| | Gold Supporter 
Join Date: Apr 2002 GT40: Houston, Texas
Posts: 678
Rep Power: 13  | Re: Cooling Pipes Thanks Brett. I thought they didn't have larger sizes. One tool os all I need and that is worth the money to me. |
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