GTD Anti-roll bar mounts

[Simon]

These are ford items I know, but can anyone tell me the part number or the car they are off please?
see pic (sorry for the poor quality pic)

Simon

[Fred/Belgium]

Simon,

These are coming from a Ford granada mkII.I ordered full set for both front sides and paid arround 65 Euro.
Let me know if you need more info as I could ask part number to my local garage who supplied them.
Rgds
Fred

[Simon]

Thanks Fred,
Does anyone know how to remove these without damaging them?
Ta
Simon

[Fred/Belgium]

Simon,

Brown soap or something similar (the old mother prescription) but if you do not need them anymore , use a knife...
Fred

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Hi Simon
Re the rollbar fittings you show - I believe you require the following:

2 x 1481463 Ford rubber bushes.
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[RobBrom]

On the subject of front anti-roll bars - On my (early) GTD, on full lock the track rod end hits the spacer between the lower wishbone and the anti-roll bar. I've taken it off in order to get the car through it's MOT but does anybody have a solution?

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Hi Rob

Believe it or not - I'm told that is how wheel movement was limited - hmmmm - not sure wheter that is true or not.

Anyway - you can limit the travel of the rack and hence avoid the problem by fitting a collar arrangement inside each end of the rack to restrict travel.

Hope that makes sense....

[Simon]

Paul,

Many thanks

Simon

[Paul Bearman]

Rob,
I had the same problem.
What I did was to measure the amount of interference between the anti roll bar drop link & the track rod link arm the make some spacers accordingly & add 5mm. These spacers shuold differ in length from N/S to O/S, although I cannot remember what these measurements were.
Then, disassemble the stering rack ends,fit the spacers & reassemble. You will notice that you have limited turning circle so I would suggest that you remove these once through the MOT. Paul Thompson is correct in saying that the original Ford donor vehicle has this characteristic of the anti roll bar drop link hitting the upright, but this doesn't cut any ice with the SVA inspectorate!!
Hope this helps.

[Malcolm]

My suggestion would be to not fit the same anti roll bar mounts. Go to a set of polyurethane after market ones. These will have less squish in them so bring the anti roll bar into play that little bit earlier. No fitment issues and cheaper too. I think Roy Smart got me a set years ago for about £12. Demon Tweaks are bound to have something that would do.

I remember my car in its standard set up rubbing on the drop links. Didn't affect driving in any noticeable way. If there is an issue with SVA, why not remove the whole anti roll bar set up for the test and fit afterwards? SVA does not require excellent handling characteristics does it?

[Malcolm]

Of course, if you have an old skateboard with hard rubbers in the steering axle, pop those on your car! You are only creating a flexible fixing afterall.

[Simon]

Thanks for all the posts.
I've got the parts powdercoated and a new set of rubber, but can I get the bl**dy things in? NO
I've heated,cooled,squished rubbed washing up liquid all over them but they still wont budge....any ideas?
Thanks
Simon

[Dave Bilyk]

I've used a 3 leg gear puller to get sierra suspension bushes in. But the shape of that anti roll bar arm, and the difference in size of the hole with the OD of the rubber makes it look very difficult. My guess is that you may need to use a bench press for that one, and maybe you will need to press the rubbers into a steel tube first, then press them through into the anti roll bar.

[Malcolm]

Cut them in half and then fit in the normal manner. The small area of rubber that passes through the bar does nothing except hold it all in place when dismantled. And cause you grief of course! The after market kits I mentioned above come in two parts per fixing.