Rear Suspension Upgrade

[Ian Clark]

Hi Guys,

I've had some requests to show our new rear suspension kit for CAVs. Although the factory setup is just fine for a street driver, we wanted to put out a set of arms that would eliminate the OEM bushings, sleeves and toe adjustment by shims.

The new reversed lower a-arms are bolt on parts that are a dream to dial in alignment, friction free, more robust and look the part too.

We also have a wide track kit (shown on Johns car here) that comes with longer drive shafts and upper lateral links. The result is a 3" increase in rear track width so you can fill up those Gulf wheel arches and retain the orginal style BRM 15" wheels. Suspension is at full droop here.

Alternatively we have cars being fitted with the standard width kit and 17" wheels and wider rubber to do the same thing.

What I can say after driving both the stock and new versions is now the car is much more progressive and controlable in power out of corner situations.

I hestitate to say "easy to drift" because the grip is tremendous, however if you know what you're doing...

[Ian Clark]

Continued, another pic...

[Ian Clark]

And another...

[StuartB]

Can you share details of the new center to center lengths for these revised arms?
And while I realise if off subject a little could you also let me know the power your getting and the fuel/orange juice ratio from this engine? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Clay]

Can you explain more in-depth the benefits of a reversed lower A-arm? Or provide a source of information (ie. book, website, article) that explains the benefits of such an orientation?

clay

[Peter D]

Clay, I think that the benefit is that you can set up the basic castor angle first (by setting the inner a-arm mount at the correct angle), then lock on the lower trailing arm to suit. Fine castor can then be set with the top trailing arm, & then you end up with a very simple toe-in adjustment at the outer end of the a-arm without affecting the previous settings.

If you have a mormal a-arm setup, toe-in adjustment (chassis end of the arm) will muck up your castor angle (unless you compensate by changing the upper trailing arm as well.

The reversed a-arm just seems easier to set up - I just went thru this whole precedure today with a local suspension expert on my DRB (very similar setup to the CAV, but also has a rose-joint at the outer-front of the reversed a-arm). He was rapt - just do steps 1, 2, 3, etc & nothing affects anything you did before !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.