Build Stand

Chris Martino · 09-07-05, 05:24 PM

Hey guys,

What is a decent type of build cart/stand that can be made to rest the chassis on for the build? I've seen everything from simple jack stands to rolling welded steel carts.

Simple is how I would like to keep it but I also don't want an accident waiting to happen-

The height is the most important aspect, a setup that won't break my back or make access impossible to some areas. Use of a mechanic's stool on castors would be a nice thing to be able to take advantage of.

No I'm not 85 years of age, (not that there is anything wrong with that) I just don't want to feel like it after a few hours working.

You're the pros - let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

Chris [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Fran Hall RCR · 09-07-05, 05:35 PM

Harbor freight...motorcycle lift table....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91764

I have a bunch in my shop and they are perfect for building on with a lightweight chassis...

Dan Weilacher · 09-07-05, 07:41 PM

Funny timing on this one. I just finished a dolly to put my chassis on today. I have been building it on jack stands. Now I want to move it around but not have the wheels on it and be so low , so I built this stand . It raises the car up 16 inches , floorpan from the floor . The wheels are rated at 600lb each and I used 1 1/4 tubing 14 gauge wall. I think thats a little on the thin side , but it seems to be ok. They had 11 ga. but all I have to cut it with is a small table saw with 7 inch cutting wheels. The caster wheels cost me 70 bucks, 60 worth of steel , 10 for rustoleum hammered paint (neat stuff ) and I then built a cart for my welder with what I had left over. It took me a day and a half to build it and paint.I also used heater hose, slashed along the length to make cushioned contact points. I used 6 inch wheels on the dolly. Take care, Dan

Dan Weilacher · 09-07-05, 07:42 PM

welder on cart

Bill D · 09-07-05, 09:27 PM

Good timing with this thread. Has anyone done a rotisserie type of stand? Pictures?

Thanks
Bill

Phil · 09-07-05, 11:14 PM

Gents
I would need to take a photo, but we made a rotisserie stand out of two cheap engine stands facing each other. Kind of crude in a way but it did the trick. I had to add some extra legs left and right to keep the whole shootin' match from tilting over, but it worked. I will post photos when I can.
Regards
Phil

Russ Noble · 09-08-05, 03:36 AM

Bill,

There are some recently posted pics that show my rotisserie stand on my "Kiwi scratchbuilt" build thread. http://www.gt40s.com/ubbthreads/show...0/page/0#60898

It certainly makes working on everything much easier. The pivot was just made up from bits of pipe that were lying around that we machined to a nice slip fit inside each other. The legs and casters also utilised bits that we already had. The bed was made from 4"x2" that I purchased new and we milled the ends so everything was dead square before we welded it up. All lengths for the bed were accurately milled to +or- 0.2mm (or for the non metricated about .008"). The diagonals on the bed are within 0.5mm (or .020"). this makes it very easy for lining things up and getting them dead square when building a chassis.

Hope this is of some help.

Regards

Russ Noble · 09-08-05, 03:59 AM

Here's a pic that shows a bit more of the pivot and stand. Pretty basic really. A wider base to the stand would have been better for stability but we were using what we had at the time. Also a pivot point ABOVE the height of the bed nearer the CoG height would be better.

Bill Musarra · 09-08-05, 07:38 AM

If all you need is a simple stand to get the car off the ground, you don't have to spend a lot of money and time. I used scrap pieces from a deck I expanded years ago. It's made from 2x4s, 6x6s, and plywood. Throw in a coupe of carrige bolts and deck screws and you have a stand. The 2x4s are notched into the 6x6 and along with the plywood give it all the stability you need. The 6x6s are 25" tall which puts the sils at 35-36" which is just under elbow height for me(I'm 5'-9"). If I need to get into the car, a step stool is the perfect height.

To move it around, the two rear horizntal pieces are at a height that a hand truck will slide under it, and when lowered to the ground it lifts the rear about an inch. Then I can move it just about anywhere in the garage by myself. Loading the car on the frame the first time was quite easy. Build the frame less the front legs and wheels. Use the engine hoist to lift the rear of the car as it is the heaviest part. Slip the frame rails and rear post under the car to a level that the body of the car is centered on the long rails. I used plastic ties to hold the frame rails to the pan. Move the engine hoist to the front and lift the front. Secure the frontlegs and you are done. In putting the complete engine and trans in place for welding the supporting brackets, I have pushed and pulled them to get them in the exact place I wanted. The intake and heads have to be on to get every inch possible.The frame doesnot move at all. There is no distributor on my engine, so I am able to move a little further forward. The throtle position sensor and valve covers are a few mm. away from the frame rail.

Ron Earp · 09-08-05, 11:24 AM

I made something a lot like Bill's on casters and it worked great. I actually made it from 2x4s and it supported the car with no complaints over a period of 2.5 years. There were pictures of it on the site, I'll see if I can post some.

Ron

Hershal Byrd · 09-08-05, 11:59 PM

When I built my RF 4yrs ago I made my own rotisouri from cheap engine stands purchased at Harbor Frieght. They were less than $50 on sale. I also bought an eight foot lengh of 2"X4" tubing. I cut off engine stand at the base then welded on a taller piece. I slid the cut off piece into this new piece and drilled holes through both pieces so I could adjust the height. It took about a day and a half chasing the parts and building. It was really worth it too. Kept me from feeling like I was eighty... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Hersh [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Hersh

Hershal Byrd · 09-09-05, 12:00 AM

another

Richard O'Clery · 09-10-05, 10:43 AM

With a very uneven concrete floor, I am using threaded adjustable jack stands with the sills about 400mm above the floor. I've been taking blocks of time off work lately to work on the chassis, ie 2 weeks off 4 weeks ago, and now I've just finished the 1st week of a 4 week block.

My back is killing me!!!