ride height

This is my first post but, like many, I've been lurking for years. I'm actually now a couple years away from purchase so thought I'd start asking questions...

I've noticed different ride heights, particularly CAV vs DRB. Seems CAV always have a couple inches clearance above the tires. I like the way the DRB sits. Looks like RCR is lower as well.

Are they all adjustable?
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Kirk B said:
This is my first post but, like many, I've been lurking for years. I'm actually now a couple years away from purchase so thought I'd start asking questions...

I've noticed different ride heights, particularly CAV vs DRB. Seems CAV always have a couple inches clearance above the tires. I like the way the DRB sits. Looks like RCR is lower as well.

Are they all adjustable?

I had the same observations when I first started looking. I think the earlier CAV showed this more, some not at all. The DRB are all tucked in nicely, and that was pretty much what I saw as well. Do some search I think you will find some discussion on the ride height and tires that also affect the apperance of the ride height. Also check out the CAV section I recall some things in that too.
 

CliffBeer

CURRENTLY BANNED
Ditto. CAVs are adjustable as well. Suggest you give the search function a whirl as there has been quite a bit of discussion of this topic previously generating some good information.

Be careful with the aerodynamics and bump steer obviously!
 

Dutton

Lifetime Supporter
Kirk,

It's good to see you've formally thrown your hat into the ring with the rest of the gang. They're a good bunch as you've just discovered firsthand; the first four responses to your inquiry where from owners of GTs from four different manufacturers: GTD, DRB, RCR and CAV.

Another point to consider is that not all bodywork is the same - some do have a larger/higher wheel openings than others, which will trick the eyes a bit and leave you scratching your head over the wheelwell 'roominess' in some but not all cars. If this detail will make a difference as you debate where to leave your hard earned $$, be sure you give it some careful thought.

With all that great freeway both north and south of Bakersfield, I'm sure you're just chomping at the bit in anticipation of having a finished GT in your garage... you're gonna have a ball out there!

Don't let go of the dream,

T.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
One of the main differences in wheel arch clearance is tire choice. 15" tires with their high aspect ratios tend to fill the wheel well much more so than the relatively low aspect ratio 17's many other's have put on their cars.

Tires being such a large subject I will leave you to the search engine but I will venture to say that the cars with the big gaps are on 17" wheels.
 
Thanks guys,
Dutton, I live about an hour from Willow Springs & Buttonwillow Raceways. Both fun tracks on a motorcycle and imagine a car... Plus we have some nice twisty roads in the foothills.
My goal is to be able to drive to the tracks, have fun, and drive home. Kind of James Dean, old school stuff...

My searching showed that the old CAVs were more difficult to lower. I've been to San Diego and talked to Roy (?) about the new CAVs, and GT40s in general. Nice guy...

Also, it may be difficult to register an already built GT40 from another state into California (read threads on this in the Noble car site), as I was really looking to buy a GT40 already done or mostly complete.

Thanks again for the replies.
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Hi Kirk,

Here's a pic of one of our customer John P. CAV GTs (1074 clone) at proper ride hieght. Corner weights were set on digital scales and the car handles supremely.

Getting the proper "stance" is all part of the car. There are a lot of pictures floating around of early CAV rolling chassis (without drivetrains) and this tends to fuel the fire that the cars sat too high.

Once the car is fully assembled the rear end comes down quite a bit. To get full adjustability, proper alignment, wheelbase and low ride height the pre 100 s/n cars require our Revised Lower A-Arm kit.

It replaces all rubber bushes with mono balls or rod ends thereby permitting the range of motion neccessary to get it right and takes out all the friction/binding in the rubber bushings.

The CAV has an extremely rigid monocoque chassis and responds exceptionally well to proper set-up. A great choice and lots of support right here. Call on the toll free number anytime if you've got more questions:)

Cheers
 

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