Help - GT40 Space Frame Drawings and Plans

[Kevern]

HI CHRIS, Thank you so much for the info,im sure this will benifit a few people.

Andy I will definately give you a call. I did see what you have to offer on the web. I get airborne Tuesday arriving on Wed morning. How far are you from London central, perhaps I can get onto a train and come see you.

Regards,

Kevern

[MikeP]

Kevern. You have two choices. Chop off the front and rear sections and weld on new frame sections Or buy a complete new chassis. Chassis sections from Mick Sollis at Southern GT (Southern GT - Manufacturer of the new Southern GT40 Replica-4fe109c5eb93f0f4e057a9ccf335121b). Complete chassis from Southern GT, MDA or Tornado for spaceframe types. Check out the build section for info and pics. Question: Do you want an integral rollcage?
If you want alloy uprights and peg drive hubs they are expensive but very nice to have (from John Wisher in UK). If you want some steel improved uprights for 5 bolt wheels rather than the Ford Granada items contact Mick sollis at Southern GT.
As you say the KVA bodywork is good (and fits well). I have some pics of a late type KVA which is being built local to me.
Final Question: Do you want a rod type gearchange?
Cheers
Mike

[Kevern]

Hi Mike, looking at the chassis I have, the best thing for me to do is chop off the front and the back. I will look at Mick's work and see if there is an option there as you suggested. chris posted some drawings of a chassis that may work using the front and back sections of the drawings.

I will probibly have go for the alloy uprights, I will however have a look at the steel improved uprights and make my choice from there.

I would appreciate some pics of the later KVA body if possible.
Please will you expand on the rod type gear change. I have at the moment the correct ratio Audi type gearbox and the adapter plate. I will be using a 302 which at this stage is in pieces.
Once again Mike, Thank you,

Kevern

[MICK.]

Hi Kevern if you get time give me a call on 01489 789143. as there as there are a few options that we can help you with.
Regards Mick.(SOUTHERN GT).

[Kevern]

Hi Mike, I have had a look at the site. I have shot them off an email requestin prices etc on the suggestions you made. In the gallery section I did not see the steel uprights.

Kevern

[MikeP]

Mick's steel uprights are too new to be on his website. Check with Mick direct for the latest info. I will send you some KVA pics.
Cheers
Mike

[MikeP]

There are two types of gear change linkage to connect from the lever back to the gearbox input shaft - cable using the same type of cables used on boat outboard motors or a rod type usually using lengths of stainless steel tube running in spherical bearings with universal joints at appropriate points. The original GT40s had rod type gearchange linkages. The actual gearlever mechanism can be exactly as per original or you can make one up. general consensus is that the rod type gives the best results. I am changing mine from cable to one one of Frank Catt's Wealden Engineering rod types which give the best gearchange I have tried - very slick - like a rifle bolt. Do search and you will find lots of info and pics.
Cheers
Mike

[Kevern]

I called the gentlemen in the UK re the chassis issues I have. The general consensus is a new chassis. My body is good so that can stay. I will now have to considder all the options taking shipping etc into account.

Mick my email as requested rbaviation@webspeed.co.za

[Steve]

Can anyone tell me if an original dimensioned body would fit the chassis shown in the (any help please) posting? I am thinking about using some of the measurements for my scratch build plans.I have heard that there may be some errors in them.
Thanks Steve;

[Kalun D]

general consensus is that the rod type gives the best results.

I disagree, properly done either the cable or rod type can be done to a high level of precision

the only difference being the cable type is more adaptable to different positions and obstacles.

[Kalun D]

Originally Posted by stevy_joe

Can anyone tell me if an original dimensioned body would fit the chassis shown in the (any help please) posting? I am thinking about using some of the measurements for my scratch build plans.I have heard that there may be some errors in them.
Thanks Steve;

No matter what plans you use the final fit should be to your existing body.

[Greg]

I have been a bit of a lurker on these pages for some time and am facinated by the dedication and skills shown by the scratch builder (taking nothing away from kit builders of course) and am keen to prove the preliminary drawings by building a scale model from the drawings posted by Chris Melia. Why......I have a few spare seconds in my day that need filling.

Chris .... if you revisit this thread, drawing 6 of 13 is missing in action and I thought that perhaps it still resided somewhere on your computer, and if so could you please post it up.

Give me a month or so to finish the model and I'll post some pictures of the drawings in the flesh for you. My sons are even keen to fit a nitro engine and RC the thing!!

Greg

[Chris Melia]

Hi guys
I will try this again.

[Chris Melia]

5 more

[Chris Melia]

some more

[Chris Melia]

just a few more

[Chris Melia]

Hi Guys
I have had several guys write me about these drawings, one guy Ian has already made a frame model
regards

Chris.

[Dave S]

Hey Chris
Looks like a cool project, reminds of the Locost days. I'm keen to build a frame, problem is finding a body to suit the chassis. Any ides on who can supply a body for a reasonable price?

[Greg]

Thanks for the reply Chris, and for adding the pic of the model. Keen to hear an answer to Dave S's question as well.