Locost GT40

[Eddie]

My idea for a "Locost"
Using the drawings posted by Chris{ just the ticket Chris}....build the center section then ....using the diamentions from my other Mid-engined project...build copies off the front &rear subframes ...weld them on ..voila Mid-engined rolling chassis for scrapyard money.
Now I have you wondering..what is his other Mid-engined project...Renault Alpine...I often wondered UN1 to Cortina..dosn,t make sence...complete rear end..g/box,drive shafts ,uprights hubs discs &calipers you have a proven rear-end..same at the front..I have since built tubular A-arms & installed them front & rear...no problems with camber change..bump steer bla..bla bla.
I intend to scratch build my chassis when the other project is running[ just building the Megasquirt] & would be happy to let all members of the forum have all the information including the chassis diamentions i gather on my build..Remember PURISTS this is A LOCOST.

[MikeP]

A locost is a very tempting idea but...... how do you cost your time? Sure - steel tube is cheap and you can save money but the main cost of a forty is not in the chassis. If you tot up all the bits you need to build a good car the £3,000 - £3,500 you pay for a chassis is a very small proportion of the total. Also when you sell it a known quantity is more saleable and you will recoup your investment. Also a chassis from a known supplier will be easy to bolt bits to and saves hours of toil. There is always a trade off between cost and time. Having built a fully triangulated spaceframe chassis for another car which took over a year to design and build the jig and the actual frame I reckon I was working for about 50p an hour! I have had a close look at the chassis out there and appreciate the amount of time the designers have put in to work out how everthing is going to fit etc. This may be why there is a distinct shortage of plans available for GT40s chassis unlike the "Locatorfield " style of cars. However I applaud your efforts and wish you well with your project.
Cheers
Mike

[Eddie]

Mike P,
Thanks for your comments...but I think your a little out of date with todays prices..The cost of a rolling chassis is probably arround 10,000 Pounds with vat. Whilst not trying to detract anyone from their given path what I want to build is nearer the origonal lines of Ken Attwel...I spent an evening with Ken,25 yrs.ago, went to the workshop the next day, drove the MK3 demonstrator[Escort trans. engine & box] paid my non refundable deposit & waited for my KVA...unfortunatley I bought a big old house & lost my car..but to this day still want a GT40. When building somthing of pleasure for yourself cost per hour doesn,t come into the equasion..also when reselling it,s what you consider the value, not the market.
I,m a retired ex-race car mech.ETCC, FIA.GT, BTTC, & see & know what things cost..that,s why I thing there is still room for anyone with the skills to do the bulk of the build themseves.
Cheers Eddie.

[MikeP]

Hi Eddie,
When I said £3,000 to £3,500 for a chassis that is correct. You can buy a chassis from Mick Sollis for that. You have taken it to be for a "rolling chassis" whatever you mean by that. If you mean a chassis with suspension or with a body that will be a lot more depending on how exotic you want to be with ally uprights and fancy brakes etc. Whilst it is possible to build a GT40 for a small amount of money by making lots of parts yourself to get all the right bits takes a lot of time. I know what it takes in bits and bobs as I have several friends who are putting a range of cars together KVA C type, MDA, Southern GT, GTD Mk3 and I myself am working on a GTD with KVA body. I know exactly what the total costs are from economy up to top notch stuff. I still think that while you can save money and have some "fun" developing your own chassis you are reinventing the wheel.
I still like the Ken Attwell story about him being asked for a build manual for the KVA GT40 when he said that if you need a build manual you shouldn't be building one! One point worth mentioning re the KVA is that the front of the chassis tapers in and the front suspension arms have an angled axis. This creates a lot of problems with enough space for the coil over shock and the issue of the back inner edge of the tyre hitting the chassis on lock. The GTD/Southern/MDA setup with a parallel section for the front suspension pivots makes life a whole lot easier especially if you try to juggle things to give a bit more width in the footwell for the neccessary feet. I have to drive my GTD in race boots and still need a one legged passenger - the MDA and Southern are much better.
Anyway good luck and keep us updated with your progress.
Cheers
Mike