Can't Get The Spinner Off
- Thread starter Bill D
- Start date
Mike Pass
Supporter
Hi Bill,
Get a piece of thick ally plate. Cut three slots in it for the spinner ears and a square hole in the centre for a 3/4" drive wrench. Use a long extension bar and rest it on an axle stand then use a long breaker bar to release it making sure you are pulling to loosen and not tighten! If you have a 3/4" drive torque wrench the you can then tighten them up accurately instead of bashing them with a big club caveman style.
You can buy them ready made in the UK and I would guess also in the USA.
Cheers
Mike
Get a piece of thick ally plate. Cut three slots in it for the spinner ears and a square hole in the centre for a 3/4" drive wrench. Use a long extension bar and rest it on an axle stand then use a long breaker bar to release it making sure you are pulling to loosen and not tighten! If you have a 3/4" drive torque wrench the you can then tighten them up accurately instead of bashing them with a big club caveman style.
You can buy them ready made in the UK and I would guess also in the USA.
Cheers
Mike
One of the reasons I bought a spinner tool - but.....
Here's what I responded to your thread on the ffcobra forum;
Wrap some rags around a long tire iron, wedge between spoke on wheel and the spinner - use it like a pry bar...
If that doesn't work, use a heat gun on the spinner's center, then spray WD40 on the threaded steel hub to chill it and lubricate - then whack it as best you can with your plastic covered hammer..
Make sure it's being hit in the correct direction.
Here's what I responded to your thread on the ffcobra forum;
Wrap some rags around a long tire iron, wedge between spoke on wheel and the spinner - use it like a pry bar...
If that doesn't work, use a heat gun on the spinner's center, then spray WD40 on the threaded steel hub to chill it and lubricate - then whack it as best you can with your plastic covered hammer..
Make sure it's being hit in the correct direction.
The best (and most expensive) tool for the job IMHO is the one manufactured by Oldtimer Garage in Germany.
Direct link:
Cobra knockoff tool
It's a little too rich for my blood, especially in light of the fact that it has to be operated by a mondo 3/4 or 1-inch torque wrench and extension, neither of which I have (adding to the expense).
I just ordered an inertial wheel-whacker tool set up for six-sided hex nuts; I am going to modify it for tri-eared spinners. It will be substantially less expensive, and at least as effective. I've got photos and links on another post elsewhere in this forum; it will be a couple of weeks before the project is done, stay tuned!
Direct link:
Cobra knockoff tool
It's a little too rich for my blood, especially in light of the fact that it has to be operated by a mondo 3/4 or 1-inch torque wrench and extension, neither of which I have (adding to the expense).
I just ordered an inertial wheel-whacker tool set up for six-sided hex nuts; I am going to modify it for tri-eared spinners. It will be substantially less expensive, and at least as effective. I've got photos and links on another post elsewhere in this forum; it will be a couple of weeks before the project is done, stay tuned!
EGLITOM has a tool for sale also;
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/vendor-m...ents/26889-rcr-europe-parts-spinner-tool.html
Glad to hear that the heat and WD40 worked out...
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/vendor-m...ents/26889-rcr-europe-parts-spinner-tool.html
Glad to hear that the heat and WD40 worked out...
Looks like it's the same tool. Good stuff! :thumbsup:
Bill
Are you using an anti-sieze paste on the threads before you put the spinners on?
Aluminium spinners can "weld" themselves to the rim due to the stress and heat of use.
Are you using an anti-sieze paste on the threads before you put the spinners on?
Aluminium spinners can "weld" themselves to the rim due to the stress and heat of use.
The usual problem is in the manufacture of the wheel and spinner. If made separately they are both made at 30 degrees angle, but if we make them together they are 1 degree different 30 and 29, this gives much less friction face but just the same torque retention. Frank
Yes I am. I think the main problem is the depth of the wheels. You have to whack at an awful angle that it doesn't provide for a clean hit
Hi Bill,
I've seen spinner ears tied with fine wire to a wheel spoke. I thought it was to prevent them coming undone, but the rolling action when the car ia driving is self-tightening, and the wire would stop them coming undone but was primarily (owner said) to stop them tightening further. otherwise you needed a 6 ft piece of pipe to lever them undone.
Does this sound correct?
I've seen spinner ears tied with fine wire to a wheel spoke. I thought it was to prevent them coming undone, but the rolling action when the car ia driving is self-tightening, and the wire would stop them coming undone but was primarily (owner said) to stop them tightening further. otherwise you needed a 6 ft piece of pipe to lever them undone.
Does this sound correct?
OK, that makes more sense to me. I also like the idea posted above of slightly different angles on the faces, to reduce undoing problems.
RichardH
AKA The Mad Hat Man
Thats how I understand it - it is a "Process Control Indicator" - ie a quick visual will show you if you need to investigate in more detail.
That the wire is just an indicator? absolutely- and its tightness/slackness should be watched like a hawk on this particular installation, in fact a marker pen and line across knockoff/wheel would be better for initial shakedown runs until a baseline knockoff torque is reached. It maybe difficult to find a 'sweet spot' where the knockoff stays tight but is able to be removed without destroying it. Hope not for Bills sake, but you asked for my thoughts
Bill, you 'really' need to get a decent tool for fitting / removal of the knockoff's on these wheels- if only to have some consistent torque values for reference- hammer will only become a frustration item here!
I like the marker pen idea and this is especially important as all the materials get friendly with each other while on the road for the first few times..
I don't trust bolt-on alloy wheels more than 20 miles without double-checking the torque the first few times. If on new studs - I've probably already checked them twice already!
I don't trust bolt-on alloy wheels more than 20 miles without double-checking the torque the first few times. If on new studs - I've probably already checked them twice already!
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